Pan Hard Bar and Sway Bar,Free travel mod

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

stockergt

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Ok so I was just reading on djm's website that you have to make some adjustments to your sway bar if you want to go past the three inch mark.

"Adjusting the rear sway bar and installing new new links as well as trailing arm brackets are required when dropping the rear 3"-5". The sway bar needs to be moved to the passenger side of the vehicle or there is interference with the pan hard bar. The new end links are offset especially for this and all necessary hardware is included with the kit. Trailing arm brackets are also used to allow the axle to move up with the new coil springs. This bracket keeps the trailing arm at the correct angle."

I didn't install any new links for my sway bar and I haven't noticed a problem yet, I should mention that this is a 05 Denali with auto ride.

I am also getting ready to do the free travel mod. Has anyone done this mod yet and if so did you notice a difference? I am getting sick of bottoming out when people ride in my car. I can tow a boat with out a problem (air ride kicks on enough to keep it level) but toss two people in the back seat and BLAMOO we have hit bottom.
 

JKmotorsports

tahoeyukonforum.com
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Messages
2,654
Reaction score
3
Location
ATX
The rear of my truck is dropped about 5". Before I removed the bumpstop bracket, the axle would hit the bumpstop, even after I trimmed it, making the ride bouncy and harsh. So then I cut the bracket from the frame and then mounted my stock bumpstops to the axle. Huge difference. Makes a lot more room for travel without the frame bottoming out on the axle, and the ride is much better.
As far as the sway bar goes, I don't have any interference betwen the end links and panhard bar. While installing the lowering kit, I doubled checked everything and all is great.
 

CHISTOSO

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Messages
191
Reaction score
0
Location
Tempe, Arizona
Same here. I did however cut my endlinks and rewelded them about 2 inches shorter and noticed that the ride was much, much smoother. 3-5 drop. Eliminated most of the stiffness associated with lowering springs.. I still need to cut off my bump stop brackets but I haven't had a problem with bottoming out but then again I haven't put on too much weight or towed heavy, but I'm planning on a car hauler so I gotta do it eventually..
 

stockergt

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2008
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Chistoso when you cut your links did you have any interference with the pan hard? I think I am down about 5 inches in the rear but who knows. I did the belltech drop spindles in the front and the new springs in the rear. Then I just screwed around with the air links until it sat level.
 

matt14

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
263
Reaction score
0
Location
SAN LEANDRO.CA
I had the offset rear links and put them in. Of cours i did not read the directions unitl afterwards, and put the new rear links in without re-locating them. they did hit against the pan hard bar. i just ended up putting the stock links in and they seem ok to me. just to lazy to re-locate the bar.
 

CHISTOSO

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Messages
191
Reaction score
0
Location
Tempe, Arizona
Chistoso when you cut your links did you have any interference with the pan hard? I think I am down about 5 inches in the rear but who knows. I did the belltech drop spindles in the front and the new springs in the rear. Then I just screwed around with the air links until it sat level.



Nope, none whatsoever..
Don't know about auto ride though..
 
Top