Door/Key in ignition chime coming through speakers

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cpizzle

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I just installed a 4 channel amp in my '08 Tahoe. I used the stock stereo and the high level inputs on the amp as opposed to using a RCA converter. Sounds great but now the door/key in ignition chime is coming through this amp and coming out the speakers very loud! What can I do?? I would like it gone altogether or just turned down. THanks!
 

AZSCTACO

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Did you tap into the front speakers or rears???? When i did the same set-up as you....I tapped into the rears and had no problems with the door chimes being loud.
 

cpizzle

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tapped into both. It had inputs for the front and rear so the fader works. I could play with turning the gain on the amp down and just will have to turn the stereo up more but it sounds pretty good now and I don't want to go that route.
 

Grounded

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the chimes output is on the Left front speaker, so when you put in the amp it amplifies the chime as well. You can use the front right channel and feed into the Left in on the amp and this would kill the chimes. The only draw back is you will lose Stereo Left/Right at the amp......
 

CaliChevyV8

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Is there anyway to shut the chime off completely? I have an 08 and it's stock, but I'd like to eliminate that chime :mad3:
 

Gambler

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Unfortunately your turn signals are also amplified the same way. You'd lose those if you lost the chime.
 

DofD

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A thought, not saying it's a good thought ;-), could be to leave the left front channel through the OEM amp and run that to a new speaker under the dash. Then use the left rear channel to feed both the front and rear left channels (yes, you'd loose fade). At least then the chimes and such wouldn't be going through the new amp.
 

cpizzle

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There's got to be a way to get rid of that chime without losing fader or stereo sound. Crikey!!!
 

uegdesigner

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Man I hope so I have the same issue and its driving me crazy! Damn its LOUD! My only idea is to figure out what wire is the signal for the loudness and add a potentiometer inline to lower the volume. Its what the harnesses that allow for lowering chime/onstar volume. Its worth as shot...

I would hate to have to wire my left front speaker with the rear signal as my front. Does anyone know if the rear sound is the same exact output as the front?
 

DofD

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In part it depends on what OEM you have, but in general the OEM amp just takes stereo input and then does processing and equalization to create the multichannel output.

The question on chimes, etc would be what is the source of the chimes? Does the amplifier create the sound or does another module create them. If anyone has an answer to that, then we may be able to figure out a solution.
 

Gambler

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The volume of the chime signal does not vary depending on the volume of your stereo. My solution was to turn the gains down on my amps and use a higher volume input from the stereo (still low enough so it isn't clipping).
 

DofD

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After a bit more thought (I don't know why I didn't realize this before), the PAC harnesses allow the continued use of chimes, etc, so their source would be external to the OEM amp. So the task would be to isolate what lines input the chimes, etc to the OEM amp and then re-route those inputs away from the aftermarket amps.
 

uegdesigner

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You're absolutely correct. I have come across some forums that refer to a "green" wire that contains the chime and removed or cut off would remove the chime. Unfortunately it removes all alerts including door open, seatbelt and reverse.
I still think the way to go it to attach the potentiometer to the wire and adjust the volume that way. Like I mentioned earlier the the GM-LanOS1 allows you to adjust the volume of the chimes and onstar using potentiometers.
 

cpizzle

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I'm thinking that as long as I don't loose the backup warning or Onstar audio I can live without the rest.
 

Hardin Thicke

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......a "green" wire that contains the chime and removed or cut off would remove the chime. Unfortunately it removes all alerts including door open, seatbelt and reverse........

The amp generates the chime tone. The tone isn't a line level signal from the radio. The green wire is a control wire. Padding it with a resistor or pot won't do diddley to the level. If you could find the trace on the amp's PCB, you could pad the tone line with a resistor before it enters the final amplifier chip.
 

DofD

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Yes, after looking at the PAC products and other products that allow the replacement of the OEM head unit closely they include a device that will generate the warning chimes. I also looked through the electrical diagrams for the GMT900's there wasn't anything that generated chimes or turning indicator sounds.

What one would need to do would be to disconnect the green control wire and route that to an aftermarket chime generator, then off to a separate amp channel. Some of the PAC products could be adapted to perform this function.
 
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