Trailer towing help....

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HockeyHauler

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I just bought a travel trailer that is damn close to the capacity of the Yukon and I want to help out the Yukon with any aftermarket goodies to make it less of a strain on the drivetrain, my thoughts are adding the following:

1. RV Cam
2. B&M Shift Kit
3. EPROM reprogramming

I was thinking about a CAI and exhaust, but not really sure if there is any gain in it.
 

SPXTrader

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First, are you certain your Yukon has a towing package? Gearing will be a large part of your ability to pull.

The biggest thing I've noticed in towing is transmission problems, usually caused by heat. Check out Tru Cool's tranny coolers: http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT

I put the 4590 on my Tahoe.

Then monitor everything else by adding this: http://aeroforcetech.com/GMtech.html

Great little gadget, tells me everything I need to know, especially pulling over 6,000 lbs. up 8% grades...

I've been pulling a TT and a dual axle car trailer loaded with a '72 Corvette for a few years, and have never had any problems.

I did have a little chip work done after installing the wideband. K&N FIPK and dual Flows, but never had to go into the motor...
 

HockeyHauler

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Yes I am positive that I have the towing package as when I bought the truck the original window sticker cam with the truck and it does have the factory towing package and has 3:73 limited slip gearing.

It also has all the HD options as per the original window sticker.

I haven't pulled the trailer yet (I don't pick it up until June 7, 2007). I jsut thought that I might add a few things to make it haul better.

I wish the truck had a tow/haul switch, but it doesn't, that is why I am looking at the switch from B&M
 

SPXTrader

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How much weight do you plan on pulling? and does your trailer have electric brakes? If not, don't waste your time and $$$ on anything other than the Prodigy Brake Controller. Plug and play, easy set up and no more bias adjustments needed for city vs. highway speeds.

Look at your owners manual. You'll see a few figures in the weights and capacities section (or it could be on your door or door frame, as mine is.)

I'd guess your Yukon has a GCVWR of 13,000 lbs. The GVWR is probably 7000 lbs. Add the trailer weight to the GVWR, then add an additional amount for people, cargo, etc, and see how close you're coming to the GCVWR. Make sure you use wet or curb weights, because that will give you the highest total possibilities.

If you're close to the GCVWR when everything is loaded/attached, stop by a set of weigh scales and get the correct numbers for each axle, and the entire rig.

Again, tranny temp is the big issue. Use the link I gave you and have the wide-band installed, AFTER you get the Tru Cool transmission cooler. Believe me...been there done that, and a fried transmission due to overheating is no fun at all.

You might want to consider adding a WDH...
 
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HockeyHauler

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The truck has been wired with a brake controller before I bought it. The oil cooler and tranny cooler were replaced when the tranny was rebuilt last April.

I have also purchased a 12,000 lbs weight distribution hitch (overkill, but that is how I like it). Th trailer loaded comes in at 6600 lbs (truck is rated to 6800 lbs).

I also had all the tranny fluid swapped to synthetic a month ago.
 

HockeyHauler

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OK, I took it out for its maiden voyage with the trailer and I had a couple good hills to climb on the way to our campsite and the thing was an absolute dog!!

I lost almost half my speed going up a hill that was 1/2 mile or longer!! I towed it the whole way in 3rd gear.

Only mod I did before taking it out was I added the tranny temp gauge and that was it.

The suspension in the rear is worn pretty good and the trailer comes in at around 5700lbs and I think a big problem was the backend sat down a little more than I wanted (lost approx. 3" in the backside even with weight distribution hitch).

What should I do??
 

SPXTrader

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OK, it sounds to me like your overweighted. You say you sag a bit. Have you weighed the tongue with the trailer FULL of everything you pack it with (full LP tanks, battery, fresh water hose, chairs, etc.). Fill it up and weigh the tongue. Are you towing with the nose of the trailer in a hitch up position or does the nose drop a few degrees as it should. Are you sure your trailer tires are fully inflated?

Then:

Hook the trailer up, load it with EVERYTHING you plan on taking camping (coolers, beer, ice, food) people, clothes, dog, if included, full tank of gas (both truck and trailer) and take it to the nearest CAT dealer. They have scales and will weigh it for free.

You want the following weights:

1) Front Axle
2) Rear Axle
3) Trailer Axle
4) Total Yukon Weight
5) Total Trailer Weight
6) Combined Gross Weight (truck plus camper plus all your stuff, people included)

Once you get the numbers, post back or PM me...my guess is you're carrying too much weight...

My '96 Tahoe, loaded for 7 days (three 65 qt coolers full of ice/beer/food), dry goods, frozen meats, dog (80 lbs) GF (130 lbs), grills, camp tables, screen room or EZ-Up, chairs, lamps, firewood, clothes, lap top, etc. pulls a dry weight 3650 lb Starcraft Gemini. We add about 500 lbs to the camper with some of this "stuff" (Not included in this weight are 2 20 lb propane tanks and a group 31 battery always riding on the tongue). The Tahoe has a lift kit and other suspension goodies, and we've tipped the sales at over 13,000, and not had the problems you've described. You'll be surprised how fast all the extra stuff (people included) ups the total weight of the rig. Plus you say your camper weighs a good bit more than ours.

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SPXTrader

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Some calculators for weight

These might help...

http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/weight/towing-weight-demonstrator.xls

http://www.rvtowingtips.com/what-can-i-tow.htm

Don't forget, the standard Vortec 5.7 (even with the 3:73 gear set) won't pull 13,000 lbs up an 8% incline at cruising speeds...We climb Fancy Gap Mountain (I-77 from NC into VA), it's around 8% or more in some locations, approximately 5 to 7 miles, and 45 to 50 is about all I can get without taking the engine above 85% power output.

Hope all this helps...

SPX
 

HockeyHauler

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I will weigh it this weekend, going out camping again on Friday, I have it setup (after many attempts) so that it tows level, however, the truck is sitting ass low.
 

radimus

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Are you using a basic hitch or a weight-distributing hitch (WDH). If you're at max towing capacity you probably need the WDH. It will distribute the weight across all of the axles instead of hanging it all on the rear.
 

SPXTrader

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HH, it's OK to have the trailer nose down a few degrees. What you don't want is nose up. You don't want the ass end of your Yukon squatting. As stated above, a WDH might help, or add some helper springs or air shocks to get the ass level.

BTW, what did your rig weigh?
 
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HockeyHauler

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HH, it's OK to have the trailer nose down a few degrees. What you don't want is nose up. You don't want the ass end of your Yukon squatting. As stated above, a WDH might help, or add some helper springs or air shocks to get the ass level.

BTW, what did your rig weigh?

The trailer is level, the ass end of the Yukon is down, but I have an add a leaf to go in this weekend and overloader shocks as well. I will have the trailer hom this weekend to make sure how it sits after I put the assistance in the back end.

The trailer fully loaded comes in at 6500 lbs (that is what it weighed at the scale last time I went out, and the Yukon, except for the family is empty).

To answer the other question, I have a 10,000lbs weight distribution and sway bar setup for the trailer.
 

SPXTrader

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The add a leaf will help with the squat, but make sure you don't end up with the trailer tongue up, even the slightest degree. I've found that my Tahoe tows better (keeps the pup behind it better) with about a 4 degree down bubble at the tongue. With a body and suspension lift, I had to have a custom draw bar done at 6 1/2 inches. Tahoe sits flat, fully loaded, with the pup at a slight down bubble at the tongue.


Remember, your Yukon, while rated at a certain towing capacity, is only really good for about 85% of that weight. Any more and you're getting into the grey area. As for the motor, I believe max torque is, IIRC, at about 2800 rpm. When pulling grades, that's where you want the tach, regardless of the gear you need to hold it there or the MPH that gear at that peak torque RPM gives you. I may be off on this number (max torque @ given RPM), so double check me.

In an earlier post, you said your Yukon is rated for 6800 lbs. That said, your actual usable weight limit would be around 5700 to 5800 pounds (85% of 6,800). I've never seen a vehicle comfortably tow the manufacturer's rated weight (except for the new Tundra. We've pulled a four horse trailer loaded with 4 2,100 pound Belgian Draft horses. Trailer and horses weighed in at almost 8500 pounds. Flipped the tow/haul switch on, and pulled Afton Mountain at 65 mph, and it seemed the Tundra wanted to go faster). And the WDH adds another 100 lbs or so at the tongue.

Sounds like you're going in the right direction. Let me know how it all works out.......There's an answer to this problem somewhere - ya just gotta find the right combination.
 
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HockeyHauler

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I have a small bubble level that will go on as soon as I have the goodies installed.
 

darkman104

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Ok, I'm new at this so forgive if I ask a seemingly dumb question. I have the 03 Z71 Tahoe with towing package. Could someone please explain to me exactly what a "towing package" consists of besides the trailor hitch and the towing switch? I just assume there must be more going on internaly than would be on a regular SUV but I'm tow dumb as to what that would be.
 

SPXTrader

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Depending upon manufacturer, over-sized radiator, additional tranny cooling system (which I've found never to be enough), heavier springs, Bigger load rating for the tires, bigger brakes, etc. and the newer models have a tow/haul switch that keeps the tranny from searching when pulling uphill and an idiot light that tells you you've overheated your tranny. Just like the oil light, if it comes on, it's usually too late. Also more gear in the diffs. Most all vehicles are wired now for a 4 pin, but if you're pulling something bigger, it requires a 5, 6, or 7 pin...

Some additional stuff I've put on mine, other than the McPherson suspension, are the big Tru Cool tranny cooler, and an Aeroforce wideband guage with a data logger (this thing tells you everything that's going on with your motor, intake and Maf temps to exhaust temps and everything in between and your tranny). If you want links to these , let me know.
 

Chris M.

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I'm considering a Tahoe for towing a roughly 4300 lb. setup (car on a 2 axle steel trailer) and am wondering what other types of problems you guys have had. I've heard the brakes aren't the best and a little about the transmission problems that I've already read about on this thread. Would a WDH and tranny cooler be essential? I just towed the above setup with a 98 4Runner and it was pretty scary so I'd like something a little more secure. Should I stick to the 2001 and later models for the better brakes and slightly higher capacity?
Also, what is the option code I should be looking for that would indicate the towing package?

thanks
 

CRXMotorsports

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For what it's worth... I have towed plenty of cars from 1700# to 2800# + a 1660# steel trailer (so total of 4400+lbs) with my 97 Yukon w/ fresh transmission, upgraded cooler, 3.77 or 3.73 gears. I absolutely agree the brakes are sub par, aside from that, it towed for hours just fine to race events. I have a good WTD, and checked my load distribution prior to just 'hooking up and going'.... (worth the time... every time...)
 

Rollin Thunder

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i have to disagree with the person who said only the tundra can tow at it maxed out rating, i think any new truck with tow/haul can tow its max, here is my load

boat- 5000 pound dry weight (the dry weight is just the hull with nothing else added but the engine) , add 75 gallons of fuel, a c5.7 260 hp v8 (made by gm btw), seats for 7, equipment, 3 batterys, 30 gallon fresh water tank, 25 gallon waste tank ( only full on the ride home) hard top on boat adds about 400 poinds, and just the little stuff like cabin creature comforts, not sure how much a corian counter top weighs, or a microwave.

so added up with 6 200 pound guys and coolers and a fishing rod holder on the grill

5000 lb + 600 pounds of fuel + 240 pounds of water + 200 pounds of waste+ what ever fish we cetch (usally what we pick up at the store because we goof off more than fish), coolers are about 100 poinds total with ice, soda and water, fishing rods are probably 50 pounds with all of them and tacle and weights,

so that equals to an guesstimated ( i round high just to be safe)
about 6700 pounds, when i have tow haul mode it drives great, sure i notice a preformace change but any truck would when towing, i have plenty of passing power, and i can drive for ever like this, me and some buddys went to west virginia for a weekend to fish on the lakes, i had no trouble with the grades, i needed about half throttle to get up a 7 % grade, and i down shift to 2 when going down a hill. this thing is a towing monster. :Chevy: :Chevy: :Chevy:
 

Chris M.

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For what it's worth... I have towed plenty of cars from 1700# to 2800# + a 1660# steel trailer (so total of 4400+lbs) with my 97 Yukon w/ fresh transmission, upgraded cooler, 3.77 or 3.73 gears. I absolutely agree the brakes are sub par, aside from that, it towed for hours just fine to race events. I have a good WTD, and checked my load distribution prior to just 'hooking up and going'.... (worth the time... every time...)

How do I know if an example I'm looking at has the 3.77 gears? Is there a towing mode button? Is there an option code somewhere that indicates the tow package? I assume the tow package includes the gears, tranny cooler, beefier suspension...what else?
Also, what kind of mileage do you get while towing your 4400# loads? How much does the "freshening" of the tranny set you back?
 
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