The rear is very easy. I'm sure you've looked at your suspension and seen that it is a pretty simple 2-link setup. I would suggest taking out your springs and shocks, bolt on the rear wheels w/ 2 or 3 lugs, jack up the rearend until the wheels are where you want them when the vehicle is completely aired out. Take a measurement from the top spring perch to the lower spring perch. That will give you the minimum height of your bag/cup assembly. Then all you have to do is pick a bag and cups w/ a compressed height that matches your number. You can trim off the shelf cups or make your own if nothing is readily available.
Keeping in mind that is a 1:1 setup, you won't get a large amount of lift, but you will have a very capable suspension. Depending on the size of your boat or other loads, I would suggest either a 2600# or 2800# bag. With your 1:1 ratio, the 2 bags will be capable of supporting 5200# or 5600#. A lever setup will get you more lift and will ride better, however you will lose load capacity. For example, a lever setup w/ a 2:1 ratio will lift twice as high but will only support half as much.
Because you do not have a coil sprung suspension up front, I would not recommend shockwaves. I would check out suicidedoors.com or any of many other suppliers and get weld on brackets based around a torsion bar style suspension. This will be the majority of your fabrication work. Everything else should be very straightforward and able to complete w/ basic hand tools. Again, I would recommend 2600# bags from your manufacturer of choice as those are well suited to the weight of a full size truck.
Next are valves. Depending on how much speed and adjustability you desire, you can run anywhere from 1/4" orifice valves all the way up to 3/4" or 7/8" valves. Smaller valves will adjust more slowly, but are easier to control. Also, you can run different valve setups. Common ones are 4, 6 and 8 valve combos as well as larger fill valves and smaller dump valves. A good example would be a 6 valve setup with 1/2" fills and 3/8" dumps. That would lift the vehicle quickly but lower it a tad more slowly. A 4 valve setup will be a Front/Back setup with an in and out valve for the front and an in and out valve for the rear. A 6 valve setup would be in/out valves for the front and then 2in/2out valves for the rear or vice versa, and so on.
Assuming you don't want a bunch of play time, 7 gallons of reserve air is usually enough to get a few full lifts and dumps before the compressors kick on. Some people run 5 gallons but that's usually only enough to lock up(Full Lift) the vehicle once from fully deflated.
On to compressors. How much reserve air you have and how quickly you want to fill it will determine how many, what duty cycle and what capacity compressors you will choose.
To connect everything, you'll need airline and fittings. Most run line that is the same size as their valves to keep things simple. Again, the larger the line, the faster the system will move, but the more difficult it will be to control. As for your fittings, you will find that many choose PTC because of their ease of use, but regular compression fittings have worked for many as well.
I apologize for the novel. I tried to sum up everything as briefly as I could while answering some questions that haven't been asked yet. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will be happy to answer them to the best of my knowledge.
