what oil?

so what oil would you suggest for my 06 5.3???? better to go synth or conventional???

For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:
Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn't great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended -- in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don't break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use.

CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM's maintenance schedule can void your warranty.

Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.

+1 ^^^^^

BTW: Great info doo600-

ok sold synth is the way to go...now which one???? do i need a specific synth filter?? should i go for a 5w30 for the winter colder months or stick to the 10w30??
thanks for the info

This depends on where you are located. If you drive in colder climates, you would want a lighter weight oil such as a 5w or 0w. If you are in mild to warm climates, go with something a little heavier such as 10w or 20w.

I have always used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my hotrods and it works great.

Royal Purple IMO is the best. I would stick with 10w-30 for midwestern climates and adjust to 10w-40 for southern climates.

http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html

Mobil 1 synthetic in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart for 22 bucks FTW!!!!

how about nj? im thinking i stick with the 10w30
$22 sounds great! what about a filter? any suggestions is the K&N filter worth the $$$

10w30 will probably work unless you get down below freezing often and the ride sits for long periods. I always go with a Fram extra guard, but that's me. I've always been a Mobil 1 user but I've heard really good things about Amsoil.

Gapp said:

10w30 will probably work unless you get down below freezing often and the ride sits for long periods. I always go with a Fram extra guard, but that's me. I've always been a Mobil 1 user but I've heard really good things about Amsoil.

Click to expand...

I have also heard good things about Amsoil. Big in the racing community.

Synthetic

Just bought my new '07 Yukon XL and it will get the same treatment as all my vehicles from it's first oil change. Nothing but Mobil 1.....just got rid of my '93 Chevy S-10 with 248,000. It didn't burn a drop of oil nor did it leak a drop. Changed it only every 10,000 miles and I use only WIX filters. Oh yea, I'm a Quality Assurance Manager for a Motorpool for a living.

My wife's '98 S-70 Volvo.....Mobile 1 and my previous Volvo 240 with 287,000 miles nothing but Mobil 1......why mess with success?

Look at your manual....

older Tahoes would say 10-30 for warm environment and 5-30 for colder...now it says 5W-30 for all envrironments.....these new engines run tighter and the dealer said to stick with 5w-30 as well...I was going to do 10W30 but now will stick with 5w30 and I am in Houston (+100deg F now). Also, many dealers have told me to not run synthetic until abuot 6-8K miles...I am doing my first change tomorrow with good old regular 5W30 (at 1200 miles) and then switching to blend for next change and then full synthetic...

Houston temps run a bit cooler than here in central Oklahoma but switching to 5W-30 synthetic will work great for you. It's been my experience that unless you have a turbo or smaller "hi rev" engine that going to 10W-40 for this climate area is totally useless. Any pure synthetic will give excellent results as long as it is running through a good filter. Sorry, but Fram and the like just don't cut the mustard. Great name......poor filters.

GM has finally gone to what we have done in the fleet industry for years now. Don't change oil by date or miles......change by use. The sensor built in does a great job at sensing viscosity and breakdown. Just remember that with synthetics there are no changes in either, just changes in the "gunk" that they pick up. Hence the reason for a good filter. I have run Mobil 1 through the lab several times after removing it at a 10,000 change. It revealed that all that was needed was to run it through a 6 micron multi-stage filter and it would be ready to put back into the vehicle.....NO breakdown at all.

Now if we could just get those "yahoos" at the parts houses to quit changing prices on the synthetics and telling us it's because oil prices have gone up. That has to qualify as one of the 10 most stupid answers to any question on the face of the earth.

Mobil 1 5W30 and AC PF48 filter and change when DIC gets to 0%. Change mineral oil at 50%.

njbeachrat said:

ok sold synth is the way to go...now which one???? do i need a specific synth filter?? should i go for a 5w30 for the winter colder months or stick to the 10w30??
thanks for the info

Click to expand...

Here is a site where people care more about oil than most healthy people should. On the good side - it is easy for us to benefit from their obsession....

Michael

add another mobil 1 user

For my cars I run 10w30 Mobil 1. For my dd, and trucks regular or max life (depending on mileage) dino oil.

Nick

ps. my engine builder has advised me to stay away from Quaker State oil.

Agree with Mobil 1. I also use synth in the tranny and diffs.