DJM 3'' lowering springs.......

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Mark

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Hello everyone,

I'm in a little dilemma with my Tahoe right now. I purchased DJM's 3'' lowering coil springs (CS2000-R3) back in April of this year from stylintrucks.com

I installed these and had them on my Tahoe for about 5 months, until I learned that it could be harmful to use these springs without using DJM's "rear hardware kit: RK2000". I then took the 3'' coils out in September and put my OEM ones back in. I noticed I was getting this "grinding" type noise recently and that worried me even more. When I had the 3'' coils on, my Tahoe was a 1/2'' higher in the front than the back, aka "Cali lean", and it drove me nuts! I hated it.

My whole goal in the first place was to lower my Tahoe in the back, so it would level out. I originally bought the 2'' DJM rear coil springs (CS2000-R2) and installed those. I only gained a 1/2'' of drop and was extremely disappointed :(
After comparing the 2'' coils from DJM to the OEM ones, they were pretty much identical in height. So I returned the 2'' springs and got the 3'' ones I have now.

Well this all brings me up to today. I called DJM earlier and asked them about their RK2000 rear hardware kit as well as their "SE2000 Shock Extenders". I found this article on their website:

http://www.djmsuspension.com/applications/chevy%20apps.html

Now it shows that 2000-2006 Tahoes can be lowered 2'' in the back with their CS2000-R2 2'' coils and SE2000 shock extenders, which stylin failed to mention when I ordered :rolleyes:

So, here's my questions:

Does anyone have just the 2'' coils out back with shock extenders on their Tahoe? If so, does it really level the Tahoe out.

Would I be better off keeping my 3'' coils, buying the RK2000 rear hardware kit, and cranking down my torsion bar up front? I kinda don't want to go this route, only because I already have rubbing issues with my front left tire. It's a 305/45/R22 Toyo Proxes S/T. The reason it rubs is because GM decided to put the 'window washer fluid reservoir bottle' protruding out into the fenderwell :mad:
Most people have 305/40 series tires, so this isn't an issue for them, but it is for me.

I have no idea how to crank my torsion bar anyways. Are there any how-to articles on here? With pictures preferable :D

Sorry for the long post, but I need to make a decision and thankfully found this forum to guide me.

Is that RK2000 rear hardware kit totally necessary?
Does the stock bump stop need to be cut away?
Will I need new shocks at all?


Thanks guys
 

boostaholic

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Plenty of options here:
1. Use the 3" drop springs with shock extensions and lower the front to match. Trim fender liners or heat them up and push them back like I did.
2. Go with some other 2" rear springs and still maintain some rake to the rear.
3. Buy some 5" rear coils, shock extensions, 3/4 ton chevy torsion keys, and buy a set of 285/45/22 tires or 305/40/22.

I like the last option myself, jk's tahoe looks mean as fvck with the 3/5 drop on 305s but make sure you do the djm free travel mod regardless of what lowering spring you decide on. I've installed the belltech 2" rear coils and it sat a good 2 1/4" lower than stock...perfect if you like the way the front looks now.
 

Mark

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Plenty of options here:
1. Use the 3" drop springs with shock extensions and lower the front to match. Trim fender liners or heat them up and push them back like I did.
2. Go with some other 2" rear springs and still maintain some rake to the rear.
3. Buy some 5" rear coils, shock extensions, 3/4 ton chevy torsion keys, and buy a set of 285/45/22 tires or 305/40/22.

I like the last option myself, jk's tahoe looks mean as fvck with the 3/5 drop on 305s but make sure you do the djm free travel mod regardless of what lowering spring you decide on. I've installed the belltech 2" rear coils and it sat a good 2 1/4" lower than stock...perfect if you like the way the front looks now.

Thanks for the reply.

Ok, so the big question is: If I keep my 3'' coils, and buy those shock extenders, do I still that RK2000 rear hardware kit from DJM?

RK 2000 rear hardware kit

Second, what is the DJM free travel mod? Link?

And third, like I stated above, how do you lower the torsion bar? I have no idea? I took these pics right now to show, can you let me know where the torsion bar is?

IMG_2590.jpg

IMG_2586.jpg

IMG_2593.jpg

IMG_2592.jpg

IMG_2591.jpg


Also took these fender measurements:

Front:
IMG_2584.jpg


Rear:

IMG_2585.jpg


Thanks-
 

Mark

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Also, forgot to ask, do you guys know where I can get some coil spring insulators (the rubber pads the springs sit on)?

My top 2 in the back are cut from that 3'' spring being so compressed without the shock extenders. I tried gmpartsdirect.com, but they want an arm and a leg for shipping. I found some other places, but they're shipping costs are outrageous too. I called the stealership, and they wanted $15 something per insulator!

Any other ideas? Anything aftermarket?
 

Sepiroth

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lol
You do not need to purchase that kit. I lowered my Burb with 3" coils and 2" drop keys and shock extenders.

I also did not trim the bump stop. I do not hit the bump stop at all and I have had a full load of passengers and some yard mulch also.
 

Mark

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lol
You do not need to purchase that kit. I lowered my Burb with 3" coils and 2" drop keys and shock extenders.

I also did not trim the bump stop. I do not hit the bump stop at all and I have had a full load of passengers and some yard mulch also.

Awesome then!

I was hoping I wouldn't have to buy that RK2000 kit, cause it's like $158.

So those shock extenders will be good? I heard that Suburban's are different and that Tahoes require that RK2000 kit? Just want to make sure.
 

JKmotorsports

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Mine's lowered just over 5" in the rear and I'm still using the stock sway bar links. The sway bar doesn't interfere with the panhard rod or anything else. A few other guys here don't have any problems either w/o the hardware kit, so you should be ok. But after you lower it, set the truck back on ground and check to make sure you don't have any components interfering with each other. Aside from the springs, the only other things you will need for the rear are shock extenders (or new shorter shocks). If you go any lower than a couple inches, I'd remove the bumpstop brackets from the frame rails so you'll have more suspension travel and re-attach the bumstops to the axle.
For the torsion bars, all you have to do is loosen the bolts to lower the front and tighten them to raise it. This will change the camber of the front tires, so you'll have to re-align it afterwards once you get it right where you want.
 

Mark

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Mine's lowered just over 5" in the rear and I'm still using the stock sway bar links. The sway bar doesn't interfere with the panhard rod or anything else. A few other guys here don't have any problems either w/o the hardware kit, so you should be ok. But after you lower it, set the truck back on ground and check to make sure you don't have any components interfering with each other. Aside from the springs, the only other things you will need for the rear are shock extenders (or new shorter shocks). If you go any lower than a couple inches, I'd remove the bumpstop brackets from the frame rails so you'll have more suspension travel and re-attach the bumstops to the axle.
For the torsion bars, all you have to do is loosen the bolts to lower the front and tighten them to raise it. This will change the camber of the front tires, so you'll have to re-align it afterwards once you get it right where you want.


Thanks. How would I go about removing the bumpstop brackets. Are there any how to articles on here?

And as for the torsion bars, what bolts are you referring to?

Red, yellow, or blue circles?

Torsionbarpicture.jpg
 

JKmotorsports

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Actually, none of the ones you have circled:). But right below the yellow circle and a few inches farther back and a few inches more towards the center of the truck is a bolt that goes into the torsion keys. Follow the torsion bars all the way to where they end. Then a few inches towards the center is about where you should see the single bolt on each side that you'll need to adjust. Sorry I don't have any pics to show you.
The rear bumpstop brackets have to be cutoff with either a cutoff wheel or plasma cutter. There should be an article on DJM's website that will take you through it step by step.
 

Mark

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Thanks JK

Okay, I went outside and took some pictures of where you said, I hope these are it:

IMG_2602.jpg

IMG_2600.jpg

IMG_2599.jpg

IMG_2596.jpg


Red or Blue screw?

Torsionbar_1.jpg
 

Sepiroth

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Only the red circle. Now if you are trying to lower the front, doing so with stock keys will only net you 1-1.5" drop. You will still need an alignment. IMHO replace the stock torsion keys with a set of drop keys as well. Just be sure you have a 7.5 ton gear puller handy, its a 40 dollar part from sears, so you can r&r the keys w/o an issue.
 

Mark

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Only the red circle. Now if you are trying to lower the front, doing so with stock keys will only net you 1-1.5" drop. You will still need an alignment. IMHO replace the stock torsion keys with a set of drop keys as well. Just be sure you have a 7.5 ton gear puller handy, its a 40 dollar part from sears, so you can r&r the keys w/o an issue.


Well I only want the front lowered like 1/2''
That's because when I put the 3'' coils out back, it was a 1/2'' higher in the back and looked stupid. I can't really lower the front that much more cause, like I said, the front left tire rubs. Does anyone have a mod for that front left fenderwell?

7.5 ton gear pulley? R&R the keys?

Can you elaborate please. How hard are we talking with swapping the keys on a scale of 1-10?
 

matt14

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Where are you rubbing at on the fender. It isnt rubbing on the top of the fender liner is it? My yukon is lowered 3" in the front and doesnt rub on the top, but does rub when the wheel is turned to "lock",or if i hit a big pothole, and i'm running 305/40/22's. this has nothing to do with the lowering, but is from the tires being wide and the offset of the wheels. Also be careful when crankin on the t-bar keys. Mark the location of the keys where they are at there stock location, that way you know how much you moved them,just incase you dont like the way it looks or the way it rides( the ride will change and become stiffer in the front ).
 

Mark

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Where are you rubbing at on the fender. It isnt rubbing on the top of the fender liner is it? My yukon is lowered 3" in the front and doesnt rub on the top, but does rub when the wheel is turned to "lock",or if i hit a big pothole, and i'm running 305/40/22's. this has nothing to do with the lowering, but is from the tires being wide and the offset of the wheels. Also be careful when crankin on the t-bar keys. Mark the location of the keys where they are at there stock location, that way you know how much you moved them,just incase you dont like the way it looks or the way it rides( the ride will change and become stiffer in the front ).

It rubs on the bottom part of the front left fenderwell.

When you say "mark the location" do you mean the screw head that adjusts the t-bar?

I only plan on lowering the front 1/2'', will this make that much of a difference?
Will I need to get an alignment?
 

matt14

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It rubs on the bottom part of the front left fenderwell.

When you say "mark the location" do you mean the screw head that adjusts the t-bar?

I only plan on lowering the front 1/2'', will this make that much of a difference?
Will I need to get an alignment?

The picture with the green paint on the keys, mark the key according to the frame. Just run white out straight across the key and the frame. And YES, you will have to do alighnment afterwards. The alighnment will be altered once the keys are moved. And i honestly dont think your going to be able to tell a difference with lowering it that much. I was only going to get a 2/3 drop, but my friend convinced me ( pretty easily ) to go witht he 3/5.Glad i did it. Do your tires stick out the side of the truck. Maybe thats why you rub. Take some pics of your truck and where the rub, and maybe well be able to help a little more. Your on gmfullsize, huh?
 

Mark

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The picture with the green paint on the keys, mark the key according to the frame. Just run white out straight across the key and the frame. And YES, you will have to do alighnment afterwards. The alighnment will be altered once the keys are moved. And i honestly dont think your going to be able to tell a difference with lowering it that much. I was only going to get a 2/3 drop, but my friend convinced me ( pretty easily ) to go witht he 3/5.Glad i did it. Do your tires stick out the side of the truck. Maybe thats why you rub. Take some pics of your truck and where the rub, and maybe well be able to help a little more. Your on gmfullsize, huh?

Tires don't stick out at all. I'll get some pics tomorrow of the part that rubs.

Yeah, gmfullsize is my home site pretty much, except there's not that many Tahoes on there, so it's hard to get answers to stuff.
 

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Ok you do not have to buy that 7.5 ton gear puller if you are just adjusting your stock keys. Thats only if you were to replace them.

As far as turing them, you're going to need an 18mm socket and a ratchet. I would recommend a 1/2" drive setup.

You loosen the bolt to reach your desired height. Once you lower both sides, take the truck for a quick drive around the block or in a parking lot. Do like how NASCAR drivers do to clean their tires, swing your steering wheel right to left a few times. You have to do this to allow the suspension to settle.

Once you have done that, measure and adjust as necessary to reach the height you want.
 

Mark

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Ok you do not have to buy that 7.5 ton gear puller if you are just adjusting your stock keys. Thats only if you were to replace them.

As far as turing them, you're going to need an 18mm socket and a ratchet. I would recommend a 1/2" drive setup.

You loosen the bolt to reach your desired height. Once you lower both sides, take the truck for a quick drive around the block or in a parking lot. Do like how NASCAR drivers do to clean their tires, swing your steering wheel right to left a few times. You have to do this to allow the suspension to settle.

Once you have done that, measure and adjust as necessary to reach the height you want.


Thanks man, I appreciate all your input.

Do any of you by chance know where I can get a pair of those shock extenders? $80 shipped seems like a lot from stylintrucks IMO
Especially for 2 little brackets. Anyone know anyone whose parting out their suspension and has a pair?
 
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