mcgaughy 2/3 kit problems????

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riverst

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Hey,
I purchased the Mcgaughy 2/3 deluxe kit(30009) and i ran into a few issue when i tried to install it. I have a 4wd Tahoe LTZ and when i tried to install the spindle, the CV boot was in the way and i couldnt connect the upper control arm to the spindle. There is no room with the CV axle boot being there. Have any one had issues with the kit. Can it be installed and should i let a shop install it for me. Also how much does it cost to install the kit.
Im just so frustrated because i took everything off and ran into the issue with the CV boot. So i had to put the old one back on. Then my wife found out how much the kit cost and went ballistic:confused:.
any help or advice would be very appreciated. Thanks
 

Nnaboy

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I'm prety sure you MAY have the wrong kit, I responded to your last thread saying that you ordered the 30009 kit instead of the 30008 kit, but the 30009 kit is for those with Autoride, you may have to get the 30008 kit!
 

riverst

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I have the LTZ with Auto ride. Autoride is primary the Air Shocks in the rear. The only difference between the kits are the Shock extender brackets are wider for the Air Shocks(Autoride). My issue was with the Spindle and the CV Joint.
 

InTruckDesign

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CV axle must be totally removed before reattaching the upper control arm(uca) to the new spindle, then once installed the excess threads from the ball joint stud must be cut off to provide the clearance needed to clear the cv boot.
 

riverst

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CV axle must be totally removed before reattaching the upper control arm(uca) to the new spindle, then once installed the excess threads from the ball joint stud must be cut off to provide the clearance needed to clear the cv boot.
Do you suggest I take it to a shop and let them perform the install or can this be done by me. I'm just worried about removing the CV Joint. How much would this job cost on average?
 

InTruckDesign

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If you removed the CV from the factory spindle then you did the hard part...now just take the 6 bolts out of the other end ..they hold the flanged end onto the front diff. Really is not a hard install...and sounds like you can turn a wrench so give it another shot...but definetly have an alignment shop lined up cause it will need one...you will need to eyeball the alignment in order to drive it there as it is way off and will squeel the tires if you go over 15-20mph.
 

riverst

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Thanks for the advice. I was a little afraid of removing the other end of the CV joint. Ill give it another try and see where it take me. Thanks again. Just don't want to have to call a tow truck... haha!! Thanks
 

riverst

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1. After you remove the CV Axle/Spindle. The instructions say cut the protruding bolt from the Upper Control arm so it will not interfere with the CV axle. What tool did you use to cut the bolt? Just want to make sure im clear about everything before i start again.
2. Also, did anyone have problem bending the Air linkage rod in the rear. I hear that the Peddlers company makes shorter air linkage rods.
Thanks
 

InTruckDesign

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you can use a sawzall, air saw, cut-off wheel etc. The bolt they want you to cut off is the balljoint stud...you need to be at the point in the install where the uca is re-installed and tightened..then before you install the cv axle you cut the stud shorter.
 

riverst

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you can use a sawzall, air saw, cut-off wheel etc. The bolt they want you to cut off is the balljoint stud...you need to be at the point in the install where the uca is re-installed and tightened..then before you install the cv axle you cut the stud shorter.

Thanks. I just wanted to be sure about everything before i began the project again. As soon as the weather here becomes better ill do the install. Thanks again. I post pics of the install.
 
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