2 door rear drive shaft question

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bowtiefreak

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Hey guys. I've got a questions for any 2 door owners out there that have a decent size lift on their rig. Since we have such a short wheel base on these trucks, the drive shaft is also very short. This seems to cause two big problems:

1) the drive line angles are way out, I did shim the rear so it looks almost stock. The bad angle is up at the slip yoke.

2) drive shaft length, my slip yoke is sticking out 3" from the seal to the "U" joint.

The 4 doors and the pick ups have longer wheel bases so these problems are not as severe.

Has anyone else seen these problems? I also get a good vibration around 20-30mph on or off the gas and 40+ when I let off the gas. I'm sure part of this could be old "U" joints.

I am looking into a new, longer rear shaft. Also a CV type or double cardan shaft that uses two "U" joints up at the yoke to take some of the harshness off that single joint angle.

Anyone?
 

992door

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Do you have autotrac because if I remember right most of them reccomend that you change the front drive shaft out because at about 35 if starts to vibrate.
 

96ProCompTahoe

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i had mine lengthened an inch with my procomp 6" lift. a shop in indy did it and installed new u joints on both ends of it. was about $200. didn't have any problems with mine before other than pulling the slip yoke out farther than stock. lengthening it was supposed to further get rid of the rear end noise problems i had with the gears... whole nother story... i had vibrations at highway speed when i let off the gas, but it was the gears they installed in my truck, not the shaft or u-joints.

DON"T use the double cardan joints. the guys up at four wheel parts said you'll burn them up all the time at highway speeds. (they use them on their rock crawlers, was advice from "experience")
 

bowtiefreak

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No I don't have autotrac. The front shaft is ok, plus it only spins when engauged in 4 wheel.

As for the rear, I am at a loss for the most part. I get a good vibration and the local driveline shops around here all recomend the double cardan. This is why I am so confused. I do get a wicked angle on the slip yoke though and do not know how to get around that.
 

96ProCompTahoe

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if your stuck on the double cardan, then see if they shops will give you a hell of a good warranty, and if/when it goes bad, just swap it out.

i've never had them, but mike at 4 wheel parts took me out in the garage and showed me the one on his jeep that just got replaced, (i asked if that would be better on the D-shaft) i've never tried it, so i got nothing other than what he said.

may have one of them check to see if you have a bad u-joint on it. the rear of your truck is lifted the same amount as mine, and i drove mine a year with the stock rear end and drive shaft without any problems what-so-ever.

that or your drive shaft is out of balance now for some reason.

are you positive its the driveshaft? haven't lost any wheel weights or anything?
 

97 2door tahoe

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sry 2 butt in, so when i put my 6" rc lift on should i extend my rear shaft. i was lookin at the double cardan drive shafts but i heard the same thing that procomp heard....im pretty much stuck??? lol
 

bowtiefreak

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There are a lot of DD trucks out there running these. Some trucks even came from the factory with them. I am looking into the warranty too. I am keeping my old shaft and will have it extended accordingly at some point also to see the difference in teh two.

I am sure it is the driveshaft. I took the 5" blocks out and the stock springs, never dropped the d-shaft either during this, installed the 6" springs and then it happen. my old springs were shot too, so the total likft was most likely almost 7 - 7.5" from where it was with no blocks.

97 2 door, you should get it extended, how much I can't say.

Procomp, how much longer did you go?
 

bowtiefreak

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I ordered my new CV Shaft last night, hopefully I get it before Thanksgiving. Install is about 25 minutes. I am so excited. I'll keep you all posted. Next project 4.88 gears!
 
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