'92 Yukon won't turn over

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DVHammer

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I have been having what I think is fuel pump problems and while trying to diagnose I managed to run the battery down, so I put the charger on at 20 amps for a short time and was enough for 1 start. Being impatient I put the charger up to 60amps for about 5 minutes and then realized that I hit one too many buttons and had really put it on 125amp engine start. Turned it down to 20 amps, tried the key and NOTHING. Radio, lights, gauges, buzzers, everything works except for the "start" function of the ignition switch.

Checked all the fuses and all were OK, I suspect a fusible link but cannot find one, or at least do not know where to look.

Once I figure out the ignition I still have the stalling problem, but first things first.

...any ideas????
 

JKmotorsports

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Check for a fusible link between the battery and starter along the positive cable. Not 100% sure it's there in a 92 Yukon, but most older GMs had a fusible link along that cable. And double check all the battery and starter connections.
 

DVHammer

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Battery connections were the first things that I thought of and they all checked out, I will take a look for the fusible link and in the cable and let you know my findings.
 

DVHammer

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The internet is a wealth of knowledge but sometimes is a bit overwhelming, it's nice when things are laid out in front of you!! LOL

Thanks I am sure it will.
 

DVHammer

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Well I went through and checked what I think is all the fusible links and they all checked out. I then proceeded to jump the hot wire on the solenoid to the switch relay stud and got myself a little spark but would not spin the starter or engage the solenoid so now I am looking at a bad starter motor.

I am going to pick up a new one after work and see if that does the trick.

I have never had a starter go from what I think was the battery charger incident, is that even possible??
 

Mike97

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Check for a fusible link between the battery and starter along the positive cable. Not 100% sure it's there in a 92 Yukon, but most older GMs had a fusible link along that cable. And double check all the battery and starter connections.

Actually, all older GM's do not have a fusible link between the starter and battery. The positive battery cable goes directly from the battery to the starter. The fusible link(s) protect pretty much everything except the starter. I guess car manufacturers consider the started expendible, lol. Actually, the current required to start the engine would blow a fusible link if they put one between the starter and battery.
 

marinekilz

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Who knows, the starter may of just been borderline shorting as it was. The jump just gave it the extra push to be completely gone.
 

JKmotorsports

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Actually, all older GM's do not have a fusible link between the starter and battery. The positive battery cable goes directly from the battery to the starter.

You're right. The cable goes from the battery to the starter, and then from the starter to the fuse blocks on alot of GM models. The fusible link I was thinking of is in the cable between the starter and fuse block.
 

DVHammer

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Well, chalk up another one for the 'A' team!!

The starter ended up being toasted so it must have been just you suspected 'ready to blow'. Replaced it with a new one and turns over like a champ!!

Sooo now that we have that one figured out I would like some help with my next problem that I had before the starter went (actually went when trying to diagnose this problem):

I turn the key and it fires up instantly, runs for 3-5 seconds and dies. If I try again as soon as it dies it will not fire, give it 30-60 seconds and it fires and runs for about 1-3 seconds, try right away again and it does nothing.

If I let it rest for a few minutes it will fire and run for about 5 seconds again until it dies and the process starts all over again.

I was told that the fuel pump was most likely to blame due to the high miles (192,000) but I want to make SURE it's the problem before I drop the tank and go through the nightmare of replacing it.

Any ideas or suggestions????
 

Mike97

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Try replacing the fuel filter. Even if it doesn't fix it, it's probably overdue for replacement. And I found out first hand that an old restricted fuel filter can take out the fuel pump because it has to work harder to maintain the correct fuel pressure.
 

DVHammer

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I will do that, now where to find it is the next question.
 

Mike97

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The fuel filter should be mounted on the inside of the frame rail, right about where the driver's door is.
 

DVHammer

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Thanks! I will get that changed today and see if is the culprit or not.
 

DVHammer

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Found it and replaced it although it did not look very old so I think a prior owner has already done it once, and it started up like usual with the exception of it ran for almost 10 seconds and then died. I suspect that the air bubble I created when replacing the filter finally made it to the carb.

I cranked for awhile (30-60 seconds) until the battery sounded like it may be starting to get run down so I quit and put an automatic shut off 10amp charger on it. I will re-try after I know the battery is topped off but it is looking like the filter was not to blame.
 

DVHammer

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Now with the new fuel filter it will start and run for 20-30 seconds and then sputter a bit and die. If I give it any amount of gas it dies proportionately to the amount I apply the accelerator.

Being the new filter added some run time to the process I think the fuel pump in it's weakend state is able to push the fuel a bit more easily before it's not enough to keep it running.

It's looking more and more like a weak fuel pump.
 

Jason_Ridgeway

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these trucks are bad about fuel pumps going out if you dont keep the filter changed!
 

Mike97

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Yep, I would agree with you about the fuel pump being weak. It sucks that most problems like this are almost never the easy fix.
 

marinekilz

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I would just buy a 10 dallor fuel pressure gauge and see what the pressure is doing when the truck won't start. it still could be many things!! You need to start crossing things off the list that are good
 
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