Gutted MAF? what exactly happens?

JK, when you say you gutted your mass air flow sensor, what exactly do you mean? I had mine apart recently and i dont see much to it. some small sensor things and a honeycomb like portion, that (I guess) un-disturbs the air or something as it passes over the sensor. but thats all thats in there...
And while I'm at it, how do replacement MAFs help performance? can the air get through it faster or what? I dont get it.

also, please post some more photos of your truck... it looks badass.

the maf sensor sets your injector timing and fuel/air mixture ratios. don't gut it! get a granatelli from summit. i want one but still ain't sure if it's worth the $300 bucks. i hear it is but im kinda poor these days. supposedly you get 9 rear wheel horsepower and 2-3 mpg on our tahoe.

the granatelli is also made of a special plastic that doesn't transfer heat like the stock metal. supposedly that gives you cooler air thus more power

Without getting detailed into how a MAF actually works, all I can say is don't waste your money on an aftermarket MAF.
The wires inside the MAF heat up. Incoming air cools down these wires. The rate at which these wires cool sends a signal to the pcm, which interprets the different frequencies as the amount of air flow the engine is pulling, and adjusts fuel and timing as neccesary. The stock MAF is calibrated with the pcm generally according to the factors that determine the stock motor's VE (volumetric efficiency), which are things like intake runner dia. and length, cam profile, head port design, bore and stroke, etc. So unless you are changing the VE of the motor by forced induction or adding cubes, in turn forcing more volume of air through the MAF than the stock MAFs metering range, the calibration and bigger bore of an aftermarket MAF usually does more harm than good on a stock n/a motor. A bigger bored aftermarket or stock MAF will decrease the velocity of incoming air, thereby not cooling the wires as much. The pcm interprets this as less incoming air, and retards timing and delivers less fuel to the combustion chambers resulting in a lean afr unless the pcm is reprogrammed as well. Trying to explain how velocity and air mass affects MAF readings and engine performance would take me all night. So hopefully this helps just a little at least.

Wow. you lost me at "volumetric efficiancy."

OK im not messing with the MAF at this time, I had just read it in your signature file and was wondering what "gutted" meant, since I recently had mine apart.
It sounds like messing with this thing could foul up the way the engine thinks so... ill leave it alone for sure.

And dude, you should be like some kind of consultant or something. is it possible to know TOO MUCH about cars, thanks for your help.

nobody said what a gutted maf is! do u just cut out the honeycomb? if so, why? increased airflow?

a friend told me his granatelli maf sensor gave a noticeable increase in power/throttle response that he could actually feel in the upper rpm range. can't say from experience

i can obviously see that the granatelli and summit maf sensors don't have the honeycomb

but the product description on summit makes me want to get one, just not for $300!



for JK:

granatelli has 2 models for our hoe. oem replacement and cold-air tuned. they are distinquished by the letter "c" at the end of the part number.