intake manifold gasket

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willieT.

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I have a 99 hoe. Intake gasket blew.Just wandering if i need to remove a/c comp. or can i just set it off to side.If i have to remove it.How do you go about discharge the lines?Yes.This is my first attempt at this.Just getting my stuff in order.If you have any tips or step by step instructions i would appreciate it and any help/advice.In Florida last year or so took 5.5% pay cut.So dont have the $$ to have it done.Thanks Rick Scott and Obama..
 

Lowufo

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I did my 95 and the air does not need to come off. Pretty simple procedure if you are mechanically inclinced. A second person is very helpful to put manifold back on so you do not push the rear gasket back out when reinstalling.
 

willieT.

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Thanks Lowufo..I was wandering.Cause read it on gregski that he had to take it off pluss the whole bracket and power steering pump to get to front intake bolts?I have not started yet but plan to have help at the cost of a 12pk..But also waiting to get $$just in case any unforseen mishaps..lol. Also before the gasket blew was having problems with the cooling system.Think radiator partiaaly clogged or heater core.Ive had the truck about 2yrs. now.Since then had to replace water pump,thermostat,radator hoses.When i did this i noticed the cooling system was neglected..alot goop in radiator.I flushed system i thought.But gonna try again.But thanks for your reply..my only reply..I still love my CHEVY though..
 

Brass Monkey

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willie T. I subscribe to Alldata.com. For a few bucks a year you get access to the same info as the dealership mechanics. I find I pay for my membership on the first repair. Each additional vehicle after the first one is purchased at a discount price. Check it out.
Good luck, Brass Monkey
 

2000tahoez71

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Go ahead and but the fel-pro gaskets with the metal core. Part number MS9800T. It comes with all the gaskets to completely redo the top end, but only comes with one valve cover gasket as that's all you have to remove to get it done. I ordered another to match, part VS50293R. If you haven't done it, consider replacing the spider injectors with the new style MPFI injector system. Delphi part #FJ10566. You will have to remove the quick connect heater hose, and they are prone to breaking. You can find the replacement (much better quality) in the Help! section at the parts store. The Dorman number is 400-401 if I recall correctly. Go ahead and get a bigger tube of the black RTV gasket sealer. The gasket kit comes with some but it cuts its pretty close. Oh, and a new set of lower intake manifold bolts from fel-pro. Also plan on having some brake cleaner, gunk cleaner and a bunch of towels on hand.

As for getting everything off, its pretty much self explanatory, labelling electrical connections is not required as everyone will only go one way. As for the brackets and such, pictures help. Drain the coolant. Now is an excellent time to rid yourself of dexcool. When it comes to the ac compressor, take the four bolts loose, and fold it back over behind the airbox. The ac/power steering bracket does not have to come out, but the bolts and a few nuts have to be removed so it can slide forward and give you access to a lower intake bolt. There is a nut on the right side (looking from the front) that has to be loosened so it can slide. Before you get trigger happy and yank the distributor, take a small straight edge and mark its position on the firewall. If you look at the top of the cap, you will notice a straight line raised on the right bank of plugs. Stick your straight edge her(taking care to remember which side of the line you used) and make a mark where the straight edge meets the firewall. I use a small ruler and make a mark on either side. This sets your timing back right. Next, remove the cap and pick one or two of the lines that come down to the side of the rotor and make a mark on them and the base of the distributor. This ensures on reassembly you get the right tooth of the distributor gear on the cam gear. When you pull it out, it will spin clockwise a little bit. Remember this when you go to put it back in. It also helps to make mark on the distributor base in relation to the block or firewall (same essential thing as the first marking) as the distributor body needs to be in the right location when the rotor and distributor body marks meet up. If all these line you, you're in business. I know it sounds confusing, but just think about it carefully and will be ok. A set of SAE crowfoot wrenches make easy work of the fuel line fittings at the back of the engine. There is also a stud in the back of the passenger side head that holds two ground wires and a bracket that supports the big harness. This is a pain in the ass to remove so be prepared. Some people just bend it out of the way, my luck it would snap so proceed with caution should you choose to do so. Once you get everything out, use a razor blade and cleaner to remove the old gasket material. Don't use an abrasize pad or power tool, and put some towels in the lifter valley to catch debris. Many people will drain their oil before doing this, and use the old oil to pour into the lifter valley and flush any debris into the oil pan. Of course, then change the oil/filter before first start up.

When you go to place the intake back on, first place your gaskets on the heads. there will be two rubber nubs on the gasket that align in two holes on the head. Make sure they are seated. Using the black RTV, make a 1/4" bead on the front and back of the block, and go ~1/4" un onto the gasket on all four corners. If you have a couple of spent .223 Rem (5.56 NATO) cases lying aroung grab two of them. Place them neck down into the bolt holes in the head. Use them as dowels to help you seat the intake on the block in one drop, so you don't have the intake sliding around messing up your RTV seals. The next step is crucial. Get a torque wrench in INCH POUNDS. Torque the lower intake bolts in a criss cross pattern to first 50, then 100, then 127 inch pounds. The pattern and torque specs can easily be found online. After that everything is essentially just reassembly. Take care that all the vacuum lines(really like to crack) are sealed, ground wires are reinstalled (one one water neck, two on back of block as earlier mentioned), and all connectors connected. I know it sounds obvious, but there's only about 60 so it's easy to miss.

There is a great deal I didn't mention. I tried to hit the high points, tricky stuff, and stuff you can screw up. The rest is basically remove/reinstall. The job is a huge pain in the ass mainly because you really can't get in there to work. Taking the hood off could be a major help. Having someone around to hand you tools and grab nuts, bolts, etc. is a huge help so your not constantly in and out of the engine compartment. I took the shroud off the radiator and sat on the support. Oh and plan on a case of beer.
 

Mayhem

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I used a ratchet strap to the top luggage rack to hold the rear wiring harness out of the way. I also popped the hood off to make sure I had plenty light. Plan on about 8 hours work. The above post by 2000 about sums it up. Just make sure you get all the vacuum lines hook back up and don't break any. The other thing I did was disconnect the battery to be on the safe side. You may not need to, but I did for piece of mind.

One last thing...The dealer will want over $900 to do this job, the materials will be under $25..
 
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