Audio Component Choices

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brdnboy

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Hey guys,
Im thinking about installing some speakers and a single sub woofer in my Tahoe sometime soon. I want some help choosing the best matched components for the Tahoe.

I want to use a two way component system in the front with a 6.5" woofer in the door and a separate 1" tweeter in the A pillar. In the D pillar i want to do a 3.5" or 4" 2-way midrange. In the rear door i want to install a 6.5" 2-way or 3-way. A 4 channel amplifier should cover this right? How would i go about wiring the rear door speakers and D-pillar speakers to the rear channels of the amp. The front is easy since the component system includes a crossover.

Here is a list of components i am looking at:

Front:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...OS&ser=KAP&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

Rear door:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...EL&ser=KAP&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

or

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...EL&ser=KAP&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

D-pillar:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...EL&ser=KAP&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

or

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...EL&ser=KAP&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

Amplifier:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...EF&ser=REF&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

Sub:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...UB&ser=KPE&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

or

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...UB&ser=KPE&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

Sub amplifier:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/...EF&ser=REF&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

If anyone can help me decide on rear door and D-pillar speakers and how to best wire them that would be great! I just don't know whether a 3.5 inch or 4 inch is easier to install in the d-pillar, and whether i need a 2-way or 3-way door speaker when i already have the d-pillar speaker.

I am planning at this point on using the factory double din stereo. I know i need a harness to add after market amps but what else will i need?

Also whats the difference between the 2 sub-woofers? VQ or DVQ?

I really like what Gambler did with his sub-woofer (http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=8229), but i am not willing to give up my center console space. Anyone else have suggestions for an aftermarket sub while keeping it factory looking?

Thanks everyone.
 

Rollin Thunder

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i hate to make you switch gears here, but i put infinity speakers (5) just like your front ones in my mustang, and their ok, but not awsome, bass is low, highs and lows are missing, its crisp clear audio, but it sounds like its more suited for talking (ie microphones) not lisning to music. your system, and pick what you want but JMO.
 

brdnboy

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I am willing to look at other manufacturers as well, and i thank you for the input. I just get some really great pricing on infinity. If you don't mind me asking, what type of speakers were in your mustang and how were they powered? I have found that infinity speakers perform pretty well, particularly for the price. With a range of speakers from tweeters and mid range to 6.5" woofers and a sub-woofer i would expect a very large range from the lowest lows to the highest highs. Would this not be the case with so many varying speakers, no matter the manufacturer?

Edit: sorry i didn't see "just like your front ones" Anyway how were they powered? did you install all of the tweeters?
 
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JKmotorsports

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Infinity Kappa, Alpine Type R, Focal, MB Quartz, JL Audio, and Diamond are just a few decent sets. For the price though, the Infinity Kappas are nice speakers. After comparing the different brands on our soundboard, most customers opt for the Infinity Kappas more than anything else due to the sound performance/price ratio. You'll definitely get a better overall sound with a good A/B class amp pushing them.
I personally wouldn't mess with the d-pillar spkr, and I'd just go with a 2-way set for the rear doors. An ideal system has most of the sound coming from the front for proper staging/imaging, and use rear speakers for rear fill, like sound reflecting from the rear walls of a concert hall, auditorium, etc. But if you would like to replace the d-pillar spkrs anyway with an amp, you can run the rear four spkrs on channels 3 and 4 and run the front components on channels 1&2. Keep in mind, the lower the ohm load on the amp (the rear channels will be at a 2ohm load with all four rear spkrs), the more distortion and noise the amp makes. Though it probably won't be that noticeable, it will be there.
I'm running Infinity Kappa components in the frt and two-way coaxs in the rear doors on a 300w 4 channel V12 Alpine amp. Not the best that's out there, but customers are amazed at the volume, clarity, and overall sound quality. For the price and performance, the Kappa series are nice.
 
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Rollin Thunder

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I am willing to look at other manufacturers as well, and i thank you for the input. I just get some really great pricing on infinity. If you don't mind me asking, what type of speakers were in your mustang and how were they powered? I have found that infinity speakers perform pretty well, particularly for the price. With a range of speakers from tweeters and mid range to 6.5" woofers and a sub-woofer i would expect a very large range from the lowest lows to the highest highs. Would this not be the case with so many varying speakers, no matter the manufacturer?

Edit: sorry i didn't see "just like your front ones" Anyway how were they powered? did you install all of the tweeters?


i only have the tweeters on the two front ones. in the doors. they OEM had 6X9's but these were modded in behind the door.

powered by an infinity amp not really sure what it is, they just said you need an amp. i said fine pick a good one. the headunit is an Apline DVA-9965
 

brdnboy

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"You'll definitely get a better overall sound with a good A/B class amp pushing them." What class is the REF475A? I cant find any info. I assume its an A or B class since its not for sub-woofers.

"But if you would like to replace the d-pillar spkrs anyway with an amp, you can run the rear four spkrs on channels 3 and 4 and run the front components on channels 1&2." So if i were to hook up 4 independent speakers to the rear amplifier outputs, i would just connect the two left rear speakers to the the left rear output and the right rear speakers to the right rear output at the appropriate + and - terminals just as normal? Would the speakers be fine with the lower resistance (2 OHM) and would the smaller lower power 3.5" speakers be ok with the power (i assume it will only draw as much as needed and the larger 6.5" speaker will take most of the power).

Does anyone know the difference between the Kappa DVQ and VQ sub-woofers? Does anyone have any input on type of enclosure or box for a large SUV like the tahoe? I don't want overbearing bass just a nice compliment to all the speakers. I want a very balanced sound. Any other ideas to keep a factory look without using the center console. Maybe in the very rear on the left or right side?

Thanks JK and RT
 

Gambler

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If you don't want super loud sound and are more interested in quality, go with a sealed subwoofer. The DVQ stands for dual voice coil so the VC is a single voice coil subwoofer. A dual voice coil will give you two different wiring options where the single will only get you once. For instance a dual 4ohm voice coil can be wired to be 8 or 2 ohms. Hope that helps.
 

Gambler

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Are these any good? Prices seem to cheap, but 3/4 in MDF cant be that bad can it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-SINGLE-SEALE...ryZ50568QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Sealed-Singl...ryZ50568QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Gambler, so would a dual voice coil suit my needs better and be more versatile?

It really doesn't matter, you just need to match your sub to your amp or vice versa. Amps will put out more power with a 2ohm load than they will with a 4ohm load. As JK said, you will lose a fraction of quality, but it won't be noticeable. I have a 2 4ohm dual voice coil subwoofer wired to 2 ohms (parallel) myself. But you then need to match your amp to the power handling of the subwoofer at that impedence.

This website contains all the information you'll need to learn this stuff.
 

Gambler

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brdnboy

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Thank you Gambler.

I am novice obviously, but i understand most of the wiring and electronic parts of car audio (Voltage, amperage, wattage, resistance, and how they are related), but i have no clue when it comes to component choices and matching them for best output. I don't know much about acoustics and box types and cone materials, and sound staging etc...

I have no problem building my own box. I was just under the impression that shape, type and volume played a huge role in sound. I don't want to build a box only to have it sound like crap. I will most likely go with a dual voice coil with matched amp (undecided as of now because it looks like i will need a shallow mount). Would it be plausible to build a box to go under the rear bench of an 07 tahoe?

Thanks everyone
 

JKmotorsports

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...I have no problem building my own box. I was just under the impression that shape, type and volume played a huge role in sound. I don't want to build a box only to have it sound like crap....

Thanks everyone

Enclosure material, type, construction, volume, and interior enclosure shape all play a role in the sound charecteristics of subs. The less flex you have on the baffle and other panels, the more output you can achieve. 3/4" MDF or birch would be good for what you are looking for.
The different types of enclosures are important. Sealed will get you a smoother response curve and wider frequency range. Ported and bandpass enclosures will accentuate certain frequencies depending on bandpass order, port and chamber volume.
The shape of the enclosure will have an effect on the sound waves when the sub is in rarefaction phase. A square box, 12x12x12 for example, isn't as efficient as a box with different angles and panel dimensions. Sound waves in the box can affect the cone movement of the sub. More angles or different size panels will help breakup the standing waves and keep the rear sound waves from re-inforcing and interfering with the sub from within the enclosure. You can also simply attach some panels on the inside of the enclosure at different points to help break up the rear waves.
From feeling out what you want from your posts, I'd go with a simple sealed enclosure and fill it about 3/4 with poly-fill. This will help extend your lower frequencies just a bit and smooth out any frequency peaks. Use 3/4" MDF or birch. Birch is more expensive (almost twice as MDF), but it's denser, flexes less, and is much lighter.
 
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Gambler

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+1 what JK said. If you give me a budget and let me know what you are looking for I can try to suggest something for you.
 

brdnboy

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+1 what JK said. If you give me a budget and let me know what you are looking for I can try to suggest something for you.

Budget for a box or an entire sub woofer system? For the entire sub system i would say $300-400. I am spending about that on the speakers and amp for the rest of the vehicle. I will defiantly be looking for deals (I never pay MSRP for anything). I would hope to find the amp and sub about 50% off of MSRP what ever i choose, and hopefully could find some good deals on material for a box (my dad is a developer and can get good deals from a lumberyard or what not).

Would using a shallow mount sub and creating a box that is shallow (4 3/4 in deep sub, box depth 6-7 Inches) reduce sound output or quality any? As you can probably tell i am trying to make the sub woofer system as un-intrusive as possible. I am going to find some dimensions under the rear bench seat in a few minutes. Any input on down firing, upfiring or typical (rear, side, front firing) enclosures? If the rear seat has ample room underneath i may consider a box to go under the seat with a down firing sub. If not i may be forced to put one in the cargo area. Would it be possible to build something similar to the JL stealthbox for the center console or is there method of manufacturing impossible to replicate? The JL stealthbox for the tahoe seems to be my ideal solution, but at $600 im not even considering it. If i could do a quality job myself with something similar to the stealthbox for around $150-200 without woofer i would be happy.

Thanks so much for you help guys

Edit. So the back seat isn't happening. i didn't realize how small of an area that is.
 
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Gambler

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These are the options I found for building a stealth subwoofer when doing mine.

1) Lose the storage in the console and put the sub there (my solution)
2) Lose the cupholder and build an enclosure out of MDF or fiberglass to go there
3) Fiberglass an enclosure in the rear drivers side wheel well (I think it was Snomon who did this)

I got almost all of my components on ebay, that was the cheapest place I found most of them. I paid about $600 for well over $1200msrp of equipment. Where do you plan on sticking your amps? There is room for one under the second row seats (2 if you can get one less than 9 inches wide), and one in the rear wheel well if you aren't choosing option 3. Once I get a better idea of what you are looking at I can start making suggestions. To answer your shallow depth question, only do that as a last resort, you'll get better quality out of a standard sub.
 

brdnboy

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Excellent. Thanks gambler. I think i will put the 4 channel amp in the center console and the sub amp under the second row. Sounds like i will be putting a medium sized box in the rear cargo area. I have a 3rd row seat but it gets used very rarely.

I have ability to purchase infinity products for about 70% msrp, hence me leaning to them. I can buy kappa perfect for less than reference msrp! I also have always been a big fan of infinity/jbl/harman and thoroughly enjoy the 4 channel system i installed in my boat, and all the home components i have from them.

Should i put the box right up behind the seat or more towards the back? Does it need to be secured, or if it is heavy enough would it stay put and not slide around? I had a basslink in my old tahoe and without securing it, it stayed put.

JK's post was very informative. Would a cube shape work if i were to put baffles and poly fill in it or should i create a box with a non cube/rectangular shape from the beginning. How about a wedge shape? I want something compact that will stay put and sound good.
 
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