Dear god stop the squeaking!

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Flinno18

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I installed a 1.5/2.75 ground force kit about a month ago, and just this week squeaking has started on both sides of my front end. I just went through every bolt nut and fastener I may have touched and everything was tight. Has anyone experienced this after dropping their Tahoe or Yukon? Thanks for any light you can shed on this topic. If I can't figure it out the factory springs are going back on. :(
 

InTruckDesign

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more than likely its the contact between the spring and metal or rubber isolator...I usually lube the contact areas with some good grease or anti-seize prior to reinstalling everything...a week sounds about right to wear thgrough the powdercoat on the springs and start the metal on metal squeek.
 

Flinno18

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Thanks, I'll take it apart and see if that will do. I appreciate your input!
 

LaredoTexas

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I have the 2/3 McG drop and i have resently heard the same noice.. like the sound of an old car... i was told the front suspencion needs to be greasd
 

Black Dog

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Yeah you need some grease on those parts mentioned, and possibly on the sway bar bushings and end links too.
 

freyguy

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I was super cautious not to tear any boots when I put the McGaughy's kit on, and damn if the tie rod boots, and the passenger side lower balljoint boot wasn't torn. It was a terrible noise heard at low speed when hitting bumps, and when turning the wheels when stopped. The tie rod ends weren't making the noise even though the boots were split, it was the balljoint. I had to buy the whole lower arm, but it fixed it right up. I wish they made the dang things greasable. So get out there and check those boots.
 

LaredoTexas

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I was super cautious not to tear any boots when I put the McGaughy's kit on, and damn if the tie rod boots, and the passenger side lower balljoint boot wasn't torn. It was a terrible noise heard at low speed when hitting bumps, and when turning the wheels when stopped. The tie rod ends weren't making the noise even though the boots were split, it was the balljoint. I had to buy the whole lower arm, but it fixed it right up. I wish they made the dang things greasable. So get out there and check those boots.

Ok, so you are saying that in order to remove the noice you had to buy the lower arms.. and this is why? How much did you pay for the two lower arms?

I might have to end up going the same route... do you know why this happen?
 

freyguy

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I just had to buy one lower arm. I think it was about $180. When it was dropped and the spindles were put on, the spindle had to be separated from the ball joints. Most of the time a blow to the spindle with a big hammer will release them, but sometimes a separator fork is used to get them apart. If your not careful when doing this, you can put a small tear in the ball joint boot, causing it to crack over time. My passenger lower was split wide open, and I don't even think I used a seperator fork on it. I'm not really sure why mine tore, but it was split wide open. If they are greasable, you can keep them filled with grease for a bandaid for a while, but ours our not.

Best thing to do is to get under there, and check both lower ball joint boots, both upper ball joint boots, and the tie rod end boots. Throw a little bit of grease in the tie rod ends since they are greasable, but be sure not to overfill and blow out a boot. Replace all boots that are cracked.
 

LaredoTexas

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I just had to buy one lower arm. I think it was about $180. When it was dropped and the spindles were put on, the spindle had to be separated from the ball joints. Most of the time a blow to the spindle with a big hammer will release them, but sometimes a separator fork is used to get them apart. If your not careful when doing this, you can put a small tear in the ball joint boot, causing it to crack over time. My passenger lower was split wide open, and I don't even think I used a seperator fork on it. I'm not really sure why mine tore, but it was split wide open. If they are greasable, you can keep them filled with grease for a bandaid for a while, but ours our not.

Best thing to do is to get under there, and check both lower ball joint boots, both upper ball joint boots, and the tie rod end boots. Throw a little bit of grease in the tie rod ends since they are greasable, but be sure not to overfill and blow out a boot. Replace all boots that are cracked.

I check the boots and they look good, i grease the tie rod ends and i still have the rattle when going over bumps.. by know its getting on me.. what else could it be....???
 

freyguy

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Hmm.....Maybe check to make sure your sway bar endlinks are tight, and also check your shocks. Sometimes loose shocks can cause noise. They shouldn't have taken them off to do the drop, but it may have loosened up. You said it sounds like the front, but you might want to check the rear shock extenders too, just incase.

Besides that, you could check for play in the front wheels. It's newer, so it shouldn't have any, but maybe the wheels are stressing it out. Jack one wheel up at a time, normally I jack from the lower control arm. Then grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and see if there is any play. If there is, try to look to see if you can see where it's coming from. It's either the balljoints, or the wheel hub/bearings. Then grab from 9 and 3 and check for play. If there is play there, it could be the hub again, or it could be the tie rods, pitman, or idler arm. Some play is normal, but anything over 1/2"-3/4" of wheel movement would be a problem.
 

Flinno18

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So, I've been through it all. My Tie rods aren't cracked everything is tight, but I still have a rattle. I did notice the last time I had my shock assembly apart that the lower spring seats on the shocks were loose. Is this supposed to be the case or should those be set in place on the shock?
 

LaredoTexas

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same thing here.. i have check verything and still have the rattle.. anyupdates..???

the dealer will charge me $100 just to see what it could be
 

LaredoTexas

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soo today i went to a performance shop and ask them to look into the rattle noice.. in less than 3 secons the guys goes.. its your brake caliper its loose. .. and sure it was... once there i got a superchip flash paq.. at the end they guy only charge me for the superchip and fix the brake caliper for free..
 
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