Recent content by CRXMotorsports

I wonder if people are ignoring the difference gearing makes... 3.73 gears here... towing I get ~13, and normal mixed driving about 14.5 (over the past 1.5 years of documenting milage with the Yuk)

Well, UJoints replaced, no better, still a bad shutter under towing (more noticable while towing anyway). All steering components, tierod ends, sleeves, idler arm, pitman arm and alignment are done. I am at my wits end about. I am going tonight to have the wheels double-checked for...

can I thread-jack? Has anyone lowered their 2wd 4dr? (97 yukon here). I'm considering doing that, however, I have airbags on the rear now, to keep it good and level while towing or w/ a load. I don't mind a more stiff/sporty ride, I'd like to have the whole thing lowered. Easier to do on...

No problem at all, I can easily do that while I'm under the truck, my thought process is that at over 11yrs. old, 157k miles, and most of it towing, the U-Joints are worth replacing regardless. The truck has clunks and thuds from a dead stop. The transmission was just rebuilt/replaced by a...

Hey SPXTrader (or anyone for that matter). 97 Yukon here, RWD, 157k miles... I have this incredible shudder throughout the entire truck, comes on in the 65-70mph range. Reading through this thread and a couple other Chevy truck threads, I'm thinking the $25 for a greasable, (supposedly...

Strange... Mine has worked like a charm, taking the tune on and off, and NOTICABLE power gain, throttle response, with no loss of fuel milage... perhaps you got a bad unit, it does happen. I'm still impressed a good deal with MaxEnergy programmer.

Griots Garage they will never steer you wrong, worth a quick call to them! And believe me, their products are better then you will find at any autozone/advance auto/napa type place. I have a good friend that works for Team Rahal (yes.. THE Rahal) and did detailing on the IRL carts, as well as...

I actually ended up at radio shack, purchased their part number 272-1141 mini lamp [12V] I had to cut the wires/insulation away, but i put it in the socket, and it worked right away! Now off to replace all the interior lights and dash lights, thinking I will just go with a bright clean white...

Up and running again, just had to get the confidence up I guess.. I loosened the bolt, removed the dist. and easily drilled out the screw that was in there, as well as ensured the cap would go on smoothly this time. ;) Much better, power and torque were noticably better, not that the 2 degree...

Alright, did some looking/hunting.. and it appears that the distributor can be removed with just one bolt on top of the manifold?? Obviously replace washers/seals and understand how to keep the timing the same... but is it that simple to remove? now that I already have the plastic intake pieces...

Good evening, I had a bad happening tonight, unsure still if it was avoidable or not... I replaced all the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor.. all came off fine, everything changed and was working on the last few screws.. There are two screws that hold on the distributor cap to...

Did you end up getting one from Santa?

True, but it rinses off everything, it isn't sticky or abrasive or anything. Easy wash-off.

This from the guy who posted "Testing" in my other thread for seemingly no reason. [confused][/head scratching]

Test elsewhere, this is serious cosmetic business here.:mad3: haha :D