Recent content by NoEcm

Thanks for the replies: Bowhunter22, was yours a 1996? The online specs at the parts houses lump the 1996 and 1997 together and it appears that the 1998 is different. Anyone else here change a fuel pump in a 1996?

I'm finding conflicting information on the fuel pump that this model uses: -one says that the fuel pump and the fuel sending unit are seperate parts. -another says that the fuel pump and sending unit are one piece. My 1996 Suburban has a seperate fuel pump from the sending unit. Just...

In order to read/set the CAM retard (similar to reading/setting the ignition timing) on a 96, you'll need the "Enhanced" software package.

Maybe this will help: http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/NoEcm/DRLDiodeReplacement.jpg

I wouldn't drive the car. The broken piece is in the coolant system which is sealed and separate from the combustion and crankcase system but by driving the car, you will be circulating coolant and who knows where the broken piece will end up; in the heater core? in the radiator? stuck and...

For the next guy that breaks off the Quick Disconnect: Here is a thread that shows how to remove the broken stub: http://www.angelfire.com/mech/pa/heater_hose.html Or, here is a removal tool: http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-4916-119-dorman-heater-hose-fittings-heater-hose-800-408.aspx

You could try a shop vac but build a hose extension that will go down all the way in the hole. Some PVC pipe or rigid hose would work. Make sure that your new QD is steel (use a magnet to confirm). The cooling system is only pressurized at 16psi so you could always try using lots of thread...

Call Scangauge and they will have a solution for you. (I had the same problem with my Suburban and my Tahoe). Phone: 480-656-4089 Fax: 480-656-4418 Toll Free: 888-433-5664

Make sure they replaced it with a steel one. Hint: check it with a magnet.

The Harrison HT6 compressor in your car has a design problem. The guys in the automotive A/C business refer to this compressor as "the belly leaker". When the compressor was engineered, the barrel was not "keyed" to the front and rear covers....................after a while, the parts begin...

Everything you need to know: http://www.market-place.com/intake/intake.htm Make sure you replace the heater hose quick disconnect with a steel one. Remove the old one BEFORE you pull the LIM off. If it breaks, you'll have an easier time working on it while the manifold is off the engine.

Tailgate: -Advantage: no "post" when viewing through your rear view mirror. -Disadvantage: you have to reach over the tailgate (or climb on top of) to get to anything in the cargo area. Barn Doors: -Advantage: easier access to the cargo area -Disadvantage: you can see the "post" when...

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ (Good price but shipping can be high) If the little springs are broken or weak, replace those at the same time also

I found out the hard way that the "hook" is tempered. I tried to squeeze one of mine in a vise to tighten it a little. It cracked and I ended up getting one out of a wrecking yard. I suppose you could always try heating up the hook with a propane torch and then try to tighten it. Like...

Could be that part #16 is worn or broken: http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/G/GC92342.gif Description Year MSRP Price Your Price Check strap Back 95-00 $25.96 $15.93 Or the springs are worn or broken: Spring Right 95-00 $4.25 $2.52 Spring Left 95-00 $3.89 $2.30