Search results

Cheap timing fix. My 98 Yukon needed to be tweaked a little after removing intake manifold to replace intake gaskets. It was pinging under load. I bought the $90 ODBII scan tool from Harbor Freight. It was giving me a "Spark Misfire" error I believe. All I did was barely turn the dizzy, read...

Progress I put some filtered water and iodized salt in a clear plastic container. I hooked up my 3amp converter to 2 carbon electrodes and turned it on. Instantly the anode turned white with hydrogen bubbles. I started getting some green clumps in the water so I will use distilled water next...

This weekend I plan on starting my investigation into creating hydrogen for use as an inline additive to the intake. I'm just doing some small scale experiments first to freshen up on my high school chemistry. The ultimate plan is to use some high conductance electrodes, maybe graphite...

When I was working on it, I noticed some play in the ball-stud of the pitman arm. Before all the work there was quite a bit of play in the steering. Now its nice and tight. There are ball-studs on the inner tie-rods, outer tie-rods, pitman arm, and I believe the idler arm also. Thats potentially...

Got the truck back today. After I paid, I wondered into the service area and found the guy that worked on mine to find out how he got the Pitman Arm off. At first he said he just used a pitman arm puller. I said "No F***ing Way!" Then he said he actually had to undo the steering gear box from...

Thanks. I never could get the pitman arm out so I gave up. I put everything back together and took it to Consolidated Tire here in Louisville. I've heard nothing but goods things about them and they quoted me $350 labor to install Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Adjusting Sleeves, Pitman Arm...

I have a 98 Yukon 4x4. Has anyone here ever replaced the pitman and idler arms themselves? I'm in the middle of it now and it just seems impossible. The front crossmember is in the way, the ball-stud on the idler arm just spins which won't allow me to remove the nut to pull the arm. There is no...

This got rid of the clunk or binding noise when the truck settled at a stop. I also changed a bad u-joint a few weeks back.This got rid of a deep clunk on take off and horrible vibration at highway speeds.

Mine was a dry slip yoke. I pulled the driveshaft out, greased the inside of the yoke and the splines on the mainshaft of the transfer case. It did go away. 700 miles later and its starting to come back. I believe that the tolerances in the design of the yoke are not tight enough. I am shopping...

Then pull a plug wire or two and arc it to verify spark. Remember the basics..... Fuel - Air - Spark.

Pull a couple of your spark plugs and see if they are wet or dry.

Someone posted that cleaning the ground to the sending unit takes care of this issue.

It could be moisture getting in the distributor cap. Just a thought.

It can happen to any vehicle at anytime. Most factory u-joints, (GM, Ford, etc) are sealed units. Once the seals get broken, debris gets in and it cooks itself.

I just picked up my 98 Yukon last week. After reading through this forum for a little while about all the transfer case problems people have had, I figured mine would have them too. We're getting dumped on right now with snow and ice so I took it out last night to play and test the transfer...

Meet you half way! You buy the beer.

I just bought a 98 Yukon last week. It had the clunk in back and horrible vibration above 50mph. Over the weekend, I pulled the driveshaft and found that the rear u-joint was toasted. One of the cups had no bearings left at all. I ended turning over my engine hoist to use the bottom part of the...

My 98 does the same thing. I verified proper operation with the truck lifted so it is probably just the lights. I may pull the switches and see if I can replace the lights or solder in new LEDs.

My 98 Yukon pulls right. I suspect it to be a balljoint issue. I'm checking mine out today. I'll post back if I find anything. If it isn't a balljoint then most likely its a bent tie-rod end. Which means replace tie-rod end and get a front-end allignment and then get yanked b/c they'll say I...

Shadytahoe is correct. www.colorrite.com has all the paint codes available. Just look in your glove box for the code sticker. At the bottom of the sticker it will read " BC/CC U xxxx L xxxx ", U = Upper color, L= Lower color. Go throough the drill down for year, make on colorrite...