Search results

eh.. your blade might hit each other.. or wipe past the top of the windshield...

John, you're right... it only includes a swap out unit for the old scfi poppet crap. The good thing is that it's a direct swap... less stuff to change. The bad thing is you can't upgrade it any more (bigger injectors, etc). If you want to make power, look into the marine manifold, and a...

You might want to call them and verify this... but my upgrade kit (AC Delco ... purchased from Ebay. I think the seller was "ThePartsLadi" or something like that) came w/ the bracket, and upper intake manifold gaskets. As for the bracket, the one in your engine is reusable and the EXACT same...

Yukonlover89... that link goes to the old poppet style setup. You probably already have that in your truck. The upgrade conversion has wires going to the tip of each injector. the old poppet style just has a black tube going to the tip. If upgrading, you don't need the 'bracket' that...

Oh... the extended warranty thing 'might' be a California thing... Not sure on that one... sorry.

it's a good conversion.... but GM also raised the warranty time for the old poppets. The last I heard, is if you have problems w/ the poopets, the first time, they will just 'clean' it. If it still goes bad again before 200k miles, then they will convert it to the newer injectors under warranty...

Wow... what kinda gas are you using? Are you driving dowh hill often? Are you keeping up w/ the speed limit?... you must sporting one of those Tahoe grills eh? ;o)

My father drives 250+ miles round trip when he goes fishing. He normally drives an '04 LX470, but lately he's been driving my Yukon (while I service his truck). He used to say how much better mpg his Lexus got over the Yukon last year... but now he says whatever I did, the yukon and his LX470...

whatever route you guys take... the Efan mod is definitely a MUST-DO. You won't regret it, and the only thing that strikes me is the question "why the hell didn't I do this sooner!!"

Genious! Why didn't I think of that?! I was starting to think of messing w/ the wiring that goes to the relay... but your way is much better, and less intrusive. That relay part# looks familiar... What sucks is that relay is listed at $50 from the stealership. Replaced mine at $30...

Thanks Whipple... It turns out I was looking at a schematic that had the DRL relay diagrammed differntly (PPL wire normally on w/ yellow wire from DRL diode) which made no sense to me. The page you put up makes sense. I also traced back some more schematics that seems to point to a faulty...

I'm starting to plan toward pulling the #15 fuse (kill DRL + fog) and then rewire the fogs, so they turn on independently. I tried this approach too: http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#GMspec but it also took out my headlights... doh! I have about 3 different GM wiring schematics...

I guess nobody wants to turn off the DRL? Really? Nobody?

I removed my switch but didn't disconnect the wires a few weeks ago (I was trouble shooting some lighting quirks). Anyway, I got my new multifunction switch and will be installing soon too. I ended up removing the steering wheel. It was easy and definitely gives more room to work, but it...

Anyone out there successfully disable their DRL? The simplest way is to pull fuse #15 on the IP, but that will disable my factory fogs as well (on Denali)... I also tried pulling the black finned DRL box under the IP near the right side of the steering column... and this disabled the DRL...

For the rear defroster... Check the contacts to see if power is comming through... I don't have the barn doors, so I'm nto positive, but the schematics show that you should be getting power from the contacts in the door jab (up top). Test the good side first, to see where the power is at...

I know this is more about maintenance, but keep your truck tuned up well too... -Make sure your air filter is clean -Replace cap/rotor/spark plugs at recommended intervals -Keep clean fluids (engine oil, ATF, etc) -Make sure the EGR unit is clean and operating well -No check engine lights...

those will help... New rotors usually have more metal than old worn ones... and for pads, personally I had good experience w/ HAWK brake pads... semi metallic, not ceramic. As for SS brake lines... that's good too.. but mainly because that measn you're flushing out all the old brake fluid for...

I dont have barn doors, so I coudln't be sure, but are the connections to the defrost lines ok? Also, are any of the defrost lines on the window broken? I believe they have repair kits for things like that...

TwinTT... thanks for your input on this issue. As for the wire you as for, here's what I noticed. First off though, I'm a grease monkey, love wrenching, but not very familiar w/ all aspects of an AC system. I do have lots of reference, and schematics too... but the GM schematics seem to be...