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Old 11-10-2007, 06:16 PM   #21
boostaholic
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Good write up! I had the luxury of installing my drop in my shop with air tools, hoists, and an alignment rack but it really isn't too difficult to install most aftermarket lowering kits (except spindle drops on 99-06 nbs trucks).
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:35 PM   #22
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Def do the alignment, you did effect the camber and you will wear out the inside of the tires. There are adjustments on the control arms that need to be moved out.
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:05 AM   #23
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Is anyone using the eibach aligment kit they sell? Is it needed?

Thanks
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:44 PM   #24
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hey guys, I bought the eibach alignment kit just in case. If you do a 2/2 or 2/3 drop you will NOT need the alignment kit. I did the eibach drop and was able to get it aligned perfect. FYI

If anyone needs the aligment kit, I have one, will sell for cheap....

Here is a picture of the eibach 2/2 drop (really dropped it 2/ 2.7)

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Old 05-01-2008, 06:00 PM   #25
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Hey CIATAHOE I was planning on buying the Eibach kit but want to know some things from you first if you don't mind;

1. Is the ride any rougher than stock?
2. How hard was it to install or how much did you pay to get it installed?
3. Do you really think its worth it?
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:09 AM   #26
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1. I added the eibach kit and 24" wheels at the same time, so yes the ride is a little rougher, however less body roll and more feeling of the road. Handles great!

2. Pretty easy to install if you have done coil over lowering before. ( I did my lexus is300 4 times, same ****, every coilover is the same)Took me about 3 hours, must have a spring compressor and air tools help. the rear is really basic like mentioned above, rear only took about 30 minutes, front takes a little longer- basic coilover style.

3. YES!!!!! For under 300 bucks to have lowered, must have!!!!!!

If you live in so cal area, I can help you, PM me for more info.
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:21 AM   #27
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Thanks. I live all the way in Texas but I will buy the kit and hope that I'm able to do it myself with the guidelines in the forum and online, I'm also gonna add 24 inch wheels at the same time, I hope it turns out as good as everybody says!
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Old 08-22-2008, 03:02 PM   #28
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Scanning this thread, I wanted to add a couple of items and notes. I know this thread is for non autoride. But if you ahve a autoride front strut, because the procecdures are similiar, it is critical that you do not spin the strut shaft. Doing so, will damage the $500 strut!.

Secondly, at Pedders, we have our shops loosen the control arms front and rear and when the vehicle is on the rack, tighten them up again. The reason for doing this is the center ferrules of all the bushings are bonded to the rubber. Lowering the vehicle, puts stress/tension on these bushings, and can casue noises, and premature wear, plus not guve you all the height reduction you were going after. Just a heads up

thanks
mike
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:31 PM   #29
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I got the 3" lowering springs and I didn't need to compress them at all. take the wheels off, put the rear of the truck up on stands, and then put the jack itself under the diff. with the wheels off and the suspension disconnected you can easilly lower the rear end enough to simply pull the old springs out and slap in the new ones.
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