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Old 01-05-2009, 12:06 PM   #1
Darin Jordan
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Default 2003 Tahoe - Rear Window Wiper fluid not pumping???


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If I'm reading the manual correctly, the rear window wiper fluid is fed from the main resevoir up front. Is this correct?

If it is, then is there a known issue with not getting fluid to the back? The pump doesn't seem to be pumping anything.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:11 PM   #2
Sepiroth
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Yes the rear washer is fed from the same res. as the front. There might be 2 washer pumps or 1. Sorry i can not help more.
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
If I'm reading the manual correctly, the rear window wiper fluid is fed from the main resevoir up front. Is this correct?

If it is, then is there a known issue with not getting fluid to the back? The pump doesn't seem to be pumping anything.
Sounds like your rear pump has gone bad.

Assuming your '03 has the same set up as my '00 5.3L, you can get a new replacement pump at any of the suppliers (I got mine from AutoZone) for about $20 - $25 or so. Not hard to do, just a PIA to get to it.

Test it first by just switching the connector from the "front" pump to the "rear" pump to make sure your switch is OK. If it fires the front pump, you know it's the pump that's bad.

Good luck with it.
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:44 PM   #4
Sepiroth
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Where are these pumps at? Are they located on the washer resorvoir like back in the day?
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:45 PM   #5
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Where are these pumps at? Are they located on the washer resorvoir like back in the day?
They snap into the forward facing part of the reservoir tank. Here's the instructions I got from this site to do the job -

WASHER PUMP/RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Remove the battery and battery tray from the vehicle.
Remove the inner wheel housing from the vehicle. (actually, you can just loosen up the inner plastic housing front section by pulling out the the plastice retaining push pins to gain enough access to the lower bolt holding the tank in place)
Disconnect the electrical connector from the washer pump and from the washer solvent level sensor.
Disconnect the washer hose from the washer pump.
Remove the upper and lower bolts from the washer solvent container and remove from vehicle.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Install the washer solvent container into the vehicle.
Install the lower and upper bolts, tightening the bolts to 9 N.m (80 lb in) .
Connect the electrical connector to the washer pump and the washer solvent level sensor.
Connect the washer hose to the washer pump.
Install the inner wheel housing.
Install the battery and battery tray.
Voila!! You are done!
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:24 PM   #6
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so I go home today and get started.... pulled front wheel, worried the plastic plugs out and pulled back the inner fender... turned on the washer (rear) and fluid is dumping everywhere (it hasn't worked in months... tried the front... it's working pretty good but stiill dumping fluid..

so the pumps are working...

found a splice piece disconnected under the lip of the left fender behind the fuse box... ah hah !!! found the problem...quick fix right ??? NOT !!!!! replugged the hose tried rear again... still dumping fluid underneath the tank.. and nothing on rear window... what the hey ???

pulled the tank suspecting a leak (ya think ??) and found the rear line AND the front line have holes worn in them where they are attached to the tank about half way up... hard plastic tubing... nothing like it at home and my wheel is off and battery out... so I spliced in a piece of clear plastic tubing and twisted a little wire over connections to keep it there...

also find a leak in the front line right behind where the threads on the fender brace (that connects air dam and front fender over battery) had probably rubbed it over 160K miles... fixed that one with tubing/wire...

put it back together and hit the button... spray on the rear window !!! yippee no leaks

by now it's starting to rain pretty good and I'm outside soaking it up...

tried the front...water on the windshield... but still got a leak up high under the fender lip... I think my splice is leaking

too wet to continue so battery back in... tire on...torque the nuts and park it inside... will finish the leak findin' tomorrow

Moral of the story.... look for broken or abraded lines before you snatch everything apart... if you can hear the pumps running when you push the button... they ain't bad... 10 to 1 it's bad tubing somewhere...

later
John (damp and tired):cool2:
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Old 01-06-2009, 11:32 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by jniolon View Post
so I go home today and get started.... pulled front wheel, worried the plastic plugs out and pulled back the inner fender... turned on the washer (rear) and fluid is dumping everywhere (it hasn't worked in months... tried the front... it's working pretty good but stiill dumping fluid..

so the pumps are working...

found a splice piece disconnected under the lip of the left fender behind the fuse box... ah hah !!! found the problem...quick fix right ??? NOT !!!!! replugged the hose tried rear again... still dumping fluid underneath the tank.. and nothing on rear window... what the hey ???

pulled the tank suspecting a leak (ya think ??) and found the rear line AND the front line have holes worn in them where they are attached to the tank about half way up... hard plastic tubing... nothing like it at home and my wheel is off and battery out... so I spliced in a piece of clear plastic tubing and twisted a little wire over connections to keep it there...

also find a leak in the front line right behind where the threads on the fender brace (that connects air dam and front fender over battery) had probably rubbed it over 160K miles... fixed that one with tubing/wire...

put it back together and hit the button... spray on the rear window !!! yippee no leaks

by now it's starting to rain pretty good and I'm outside soaking it up...

tried the front...water on the windshield... but still got a leak up high under the fender lip... I think my splice is leaking

too wet to continue so battery back in... tire on...torque the nuts and park it inside... will finish the leak findin' tomorrow

Moral of the story.... look for broken or abraded lines before you snatch everything apart... if you can hear the pumps running when you push the button... they ain't bad... 10 to 1 it's bad tubing somewhere...

later
John (damp and tired):cool2:
The tubing connector on my rear wiper came apart where it's tucked behind the fuse box in the engine compartment also.

When I replaced the motors though, they were working, but the motor housings were leaking (just old age I guess).
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Old 01-06-2009, 11:48 AM   #8
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I really wasn't impressed with Chevy's method of securing and routing the lines... there is a hard plastic 'guide' made into the tank where the two lines are secured... that 'guide' rubbed both lines in two. I patched there and used a cable tie to hold the lines in place... and the routing past the fender brace is just dumb without a standoff of some kind to prevent abrasion by the threads on the fender brace bolt...

this sounds like a planned service return to me... I wonder how many the dealership fixes and at what cost ??? gotta keep the service department busy I guess... that's where the profits are made....

very poor design..

later
john
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Old 01-06-2009, 01:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jniolon View Post
I really wasn't impressed with Chevy's method of securing and routing the lines... there is a hard plastic 'guide' made into the tank where the two lines are secured... that 'guide' rubbed both lines in two. I patched there and used a cable tie to hold the lines in place... and the routing past the fender brace is just dumb without a standoff of some kind to prevent abrasion by the threads on the fender brace bolt...

this sounds like a planned service return to me... I wonder how many the dealership fixes and at what cost ??? gotta keep the service department busy I guess... that's where the profits are made....

very poor design..

later
john
I agree.

Most recently, the rear wiper motor on my truck started to struggle getting the blade to move. I figured that the motor was shot, but before I ordered a new one (you can get a brand new one with no core, with relay board and all for $68.00 - google Dorman Products), I removed it and shot PB Blaster down the shaft column that comes out the back of the truck. Seems to have helped it out quite a bit, and now it seems to be working OK. If you haven't shot some kind of lubricant down this shaft ever, you may want to go ahead and do this as a preventative type measure. Remove the nut holding the wiper arm, and remove the arm. You will see the exiting shaft from the containment column. Shoot your preferred liquid lubricant on it, and you will see it flow into the shaft. Can use WD-40 or something similar. FYI
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:37 AM   #10
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I too have gone rounds with my washer tank pumps. The pumps and split the plastic right down the side several times. My machanic has tried to blame in on using water in the tank, and it freezing and splitting the pumps. That wasn't the case since last time he replaced both pumps was in april, and by sept one was split again...pretty sure it has not froze in that time frame. I believe the battery leaks on them, and weakens the plastic then they split. What a bad design. I just pulled the front one off my 01 Tahoe today and will be getting a new one tomorrow.
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