Where Is The Electrical Short?

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FD611V

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I own a 1996 Tahoe with 130.670 miles. I bought the Tahoe new in June 1996.
I used it for Company travel until I retired in 1999, putting 105,601 miles on the speedometer. Since, I only put 25,089 miles in the past 13 years.

Anyway, here is my reason on posting. About 1500 miles ago I started to add coolant, and couldn't find any evidence it was leaking anywhere on the exterior of the engine. Meaning it had to be disappearing into the engine cavities somewhere. After reading may, many threads on how these 1996-1999 5.7 Vortec engines needing new intake gaskets, I decided to take the task and do what others have done....replace the 'infamous" intake gasket.
I started by removing the alternator, A/C compressor and it's hoses to the left side, remove and label each vital component, wiring, etc. I didn't remove, or disconnect anything with the electrical units, such as the Fuse box, or the ECM units. When I replace the intake gasket, and installed the distributor, coil, the A/C compressor unit, and alternator, all the electrical plugs where they where originally, "ground cable" to lower front of the block, and everything back as it was before,

Waited couple days before I started the Tahoe and all went great in it's running ability. No coolant leak, no problem with the distributor timing, etc.
I shut the engine off and closed the hood. Next morning I went to start the Tahoe...dead battery..no lights, no nothing... I figured the battery had went DOA as it was installed in the Tahoe in 2001...11 years ago. Went to AutoZone and bought a Duralast Gold..big dude. Installed it and started the Tahoe. Drove the Tahoe about twenty miles checking for any signs of coolant leakeage...none.

Next morning...no start...dead "new" battery. I charged the battery for several hours and started the Tahoe. Checked the "output" on the alternator and it showed 14.5 volts. The battery showed I had 12.55 volts.
So there must be some electrical discharged somewhere. Removed the "neg" battery cable and put a test light between the negative post and the loose negative cable... Results.. the test light lit up, meaning I have a positive to negative ground somewhere.

Here is the "stumper", where is this short occurring as I didn't disconnect any electrical cables, wiring other than the "connectors" that run the components to make the engine run correctly. I have retraced my repair steps, run tests on anything that may cause this problem.
Anyone have a idea where else to look and test?
 

FD611V

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Forgot to post that I had open the fuse box on the driver side fender wall, and started removing fuses to find when the test light would go out. When I removed the 50 amp "BATT" fuse the light went out. Put the fuse back in, and test light lit up. Removed the "Lighting" (50 amp) fuse, the test light went out, narrowing it down to two culprits...lighting system or the battery electrical wiring. That is as far as I have gone in testing.

NOTE: I had no issues with dead battery or any lighting problems before I replaced the intake manifold gasket
 

lesterl

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Check the door pin switches, Mine started doing that dead battery thing the next morning, ended up being my pass barn door switch, so I left it unplugged.......
 
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