OK then, unlike the GM Dex-cool, the GM oil for the transfer case and transmission is a good product and well priced. That's it for me then. Thanks for all of your input and advice and have a great holiday season.
So, to consolidate, it's mandatory to drain all 15 or so quarts from the transmission system, but not by flushing or using pressure. Then it's better to use synthetic oil as a replacement because it breaks down slower and has better temperature control. Am I getting that right? Thanks
Hey withac, thanks for that. It sounds like a solid process as long as it runs threw the entire system. You would think the dealer mechanics would be aware of this process, so I wonder if just asking them to do it this way would work, or are they restricted to their "book" method, whatever...
Hey withac, the pan-drop technique sounds better than anything. Gravity pulls all the oil and any crude, that's not attached to something, into the pan. I don't see a need to flush that stuff all over the place in an effort to clean the transmission, it sounds counter-productive. Hopefully...
Thanks JKmotorsports, if I get out there with everything I need, and don't have to run back into the apartment, then it looks as if I can knock this out in short time. That's a good thing because it was snowing and colder than ice yesterday. So far the list includes plastic ties, basic small...
hey ac1975, I have read that pressure flushing of some systems is not a good idea, but I had not read the trans fluid remarks, so I'll look into that. Other than the Dex-cool, I've also read that I should stay with the GM brand oils and fluids but there isn't any factual information to support...
Hey Sepiroth, how are you? So I read that correctly, good. The dealer saw some service history, but wouldn't let me have a copy because it "belonged" to the previous owner. The CarFax report shows some pretty good maintenance history, but not real descriptive. If I should start the schedule...
Hey, just purchased a 2001 Yukon, with 133k, and I want to keep it in the best operational condition possible by being pro-active on the maintenance. Looking threw the Owners Manual, it states "The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km) should be performed after...
OK, thanks for that. What are you using to attach the adapter to the vertical bracket? Do I need some kind of metal strapping or will the tie-downs work, or what? Also, where do you normally run your ipod cable, the one that actually plugs into the ipod? It would be real nice to have a...
OK hoezaycuervo, so there will be a component that needs to find a home back behind the radio, thanks. The bubble wrap is a great added touch and I have some ties laying around somewhere. Any concerns about the bubble wrap getting hot or keeping the component hot? I don't know if this is the...
kjmotorsports, I might just be over compensating for my recent realization that I'm not as mechanically inclined as I thought I was, but the thought of disassembling the dash scares me to some degree. The truck is so tight that any malfunction would be a disappointment. When I get into it...
Hey jordankreutzer, thanks for that. I guess the clips are of a design that allows them to be pulled out, then pushed back in, without damage. I'll go easy on it until I see how it works. If that works out well, and the screws and radio come out as easily as explained, then this plug-and-play...
Hey hoezacuervo, that helps. I understand it's the trim that goes all the way around the dash, not just the radio. The screws sound easy enough, but that trim, how is it secured onto the dash? It doesn't really bother me to not have the tape player. I drove a semi for a short stent, with a...
Hey, DIY question here. How difficult is it to pull a stock radio out of the dash, in order to install a pretty basic plug-and-play ipod adapter from ipodcarpros.com (PA11-GM45)? I have a 2001 Yukon with the stock am/fm/cd and the separate cassette mounted below. I understand that the...
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