You have "partial" new fluid in it. You still have old fluid that was inside the valve body and torque convertor and cooler/lines that is now mixed with the "new" fluid. Still better than not doing it IMO. If was done on a regular basis over the life of the trans that would be ok to do that and...
Details are always better than generalizations. The power steering pulley will likely take a special pulley puller to remove. So yes, remove it for bolt access. The center front of the pulley likely has a hat that has a step groove in it to allow for the puller to engage and then used to pull...
Then you are ahead of the game. Take your time, think it out and come to a decision that you both can live with. As you told her, anytime you buy used you have no idea of ALL the history of the vehicle. You know what has been done now and what you are thinking of for the future of the rig...
Every time I have done the rod and crank bearings the engine was out of a rig. I assume you could do it in the rig but would just need to remove more for access. That would be a hell of a job to do. If you have enough miles on the engine and like the rig and meets your needs and is paid off and...
The tech is correct. Just when you finish the 2 gaskets the next weak one will leak. It will not leak because the 2 were replaced, it will just be the next in line. Try the Lucas oil additive to try and stop leak. make her happy and then if still leaks you can make the decision. Make sure you...
What is their reason for wanting to reseal the entire engine? The oil pan and rear main are leaking so just do those and as far as I know you don't have to remove the engine to replace those gaskets/seals and can reseal the engine without pulling the entire engine. If you like the vehicle, meets...
Have the machine shop do pressure test of heads and do the valve guides and seals. You are going to need to take the ridge off the top of the cylinders and hone the cylinders. Clean, clean, clean. Do all the heater hoses and do a thermostat. Yes do the rings. New crank bearings and rod bearings.
If in fact it is clogged it can have drastic readings difference from top to bottom like that. I would replace the radiator but still address the temp reading at the thermostat housing with a laser gun.
Two things. Remove the upper radiator cover plate that likely has the emissions sticker on it, look down in there between the back of the condenser and the front of the radiator. Clean out any debris from either the front or back of the condenser so you have good air flow. Compressed air works...
As soon as you started opening the refrigerant it should have sucked some in without even being turned on because of vacuum and pressure in can. If you cannot unplug the clutch cycling switch at accumulator and cross it and get compressor on then then there is a power feed problem to the clutch...
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