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CEL is "Check Engine Light." If the fluid is brown and not red like would be best then is time for a change. If you bought used and has never been done that you know of and you have never done then do the filter and a complete flush. The small amount of metal is likely normal, especially if...

Sounds like trans slippage. How long since last fluid and filter change? Trans fluid level? Burned smell? Color of trans fluid? Any CEL?

Key and tumbler linkage problem or switch problem/adjustment? Or just shoot the damn thing with a cannon. From the front, right through the radiator and in to the block.

Or just replace it when you remove it.

:welcome: to the forum. Someone here will answer your question. lesterl?

I would drop the pan on the trans and inspect for metal. I would also remove the rear diff cover and inspect for metal. If has been long enough then is time for new fluid and filter in trans and new fluid in the rear diff. Make sure you use the correct fluid in each. Locker in the rear? Use some...

Bar none, the best penetrant out there is called Aero Kroil. Kind of pricey but does work. Plus you have to spray the threads and let it soak. Best if overnight after 2-3 sprays. PB Blaster will likely work too but not as good as Aero Kroil. Again, need to let it soak in to the threads. It is...

Evacuating system does not fix leaks. Replacing valves at ports could have fixed the only leak or there are others. Condenser is in front of the radiator. Sometimes have to remove grill for access or remove the attachments at top of radiator and try to lean back to get to the condenser but may...

Use another qualified shop. Too much drama and misinformation at the other one. The steam out of center vent makes no sense. That to me indicates a leaking heater core or water back up inside the housing under dash from a clogged evaporator drain tube. Have next shop check for that and also...

And that is exactly why we always ask for a final update when fixed. We all want to know and learn. Glad I could help. Thanks for the thanks. You are :welcome:

If you don't know the age of any of the ignition components then change all plugs, AC Delco, all wires, AC Delco, cap and rotor, AC Delco. By the way, plug wire can "look" good but be bad. They either have too much resistance or get melted or nicked or spark jumps out. Clean the MAF as per...

Possible crack at the flex plate? Something loose in front of engine? Heat shield?

No CEL I take it? If under warranty let them look at it and report back what they say.

The misfire can be covered a little at higher speeds. Likely a plug either burned bad or fouled. May be wires or cap/rotor. How old are those components. The MAF can be cleaned with cleaner from the parts store and follow directions. May still need replaced but try cleaning first. It would help...

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 has detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1. The P0171 is one of the more common trouble codes. This code is triggered by the first downstream...

No one. I just can't read or understand Klingon.

What does "stick" mean? Try reading what you type before posting it.

So replace the switch.

It may all come down to needing expensive parts but always check the less expensive wiring and connections first. I always check the basics first instead of throwing parts at it but as I said it may still need parts.

It will get louder for sure. More heat will build up at the gears causing the surfaces to break down even more and then get louder. Like I said, short trips locally could go for years. Long trips at high speed will accelerate. I would drive it and check the rear diff fluid a lot and change...