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are you running the a/c with a window open?....that's generally the only way youre going to get enough moisture in the vehicle to have condensation on the heater box....

you need to monitor with a scanner to check electronic operation and use a schematic to trace the path to the compressor clutch....we could throw all kinds of guesses at you but that's not going to help...if applying power and ground to the clutch activates it you have only eliminated the clutch...

if the gas engine is running at stops it is to charge the batteries...otherwise there would be no noise at all...short tripping a hybrid can lead to lessened fuel economy and more frequent gas engine activation as the batteries are not obtaining full charge...not sure about the slipping....can...

there is potential for a restricted exhaust here also...not common but matches the symptoms... just a word of caution....if the transmission is slipping you most likely notice a flare at the shift point and when accelerating the rpms would rise before you felt acceleration....also a...

do a search and youll find some suggestions for aftermarket bulbs that will give you better illumination...I would avoid aiming higher as you will put the hot spot in oncoming traffic eyes...what may not look like much light to you will be very annoying and distracting to them....

nobody?.... so far no problems with battery draw and the no start condition was repaired with the sweating of the cable ends...but the varying draw still has me wondering....

have you tried swapping the #4 injector with another cylinder to see if the misfire moves with it?....

these are the times i'm glad i dont manage service departments anymore....these delays make it impossible to help a customer the way you need to and its hard not to get involved emotionally in the situation.... good luck....

what the heck is twitter going to do?....

ditto that...

if you dont mind feeling the shifts its fine...the 4 speed automatic reminds me of some of the auto shifting manuals out there....the shifts are noticeable and not what one would call smooth...kind of like what we were used to years ago... not an issue for me but i'm sure youre going to get...

Interesting situation recently... had an intermittent "no electrical power" situation in the vehicle and traced it to the battery cable swages....instead of adding new cable ends or cable replacement I sweated all the cable end terminal connections with solder and decreased a .4 volt drop at...

I thought I remembered 22" accessory wheels like those from gm....its been a few years but I think I remember displaying those at the dealer...possibly in 20" also...i'd google the heck out of ltz tahoes looking for similar or if youre looking at the vehicle look for gm logos under the center...

ok....wow....who would have thought.... the rear windows are operated 2 different ways on this vehicle (2007 tahoe)... the master switch communicates with the body control module to operate and/or lock out the rear window switches...the rear window switches have the only power and ground feed...

:happy160: and one of the reasons I am looking for the resolution found by the op....although I am not going to hold my breath...

boy....talk about your coincidences.... both my rear windows stopped working with the rear door switches at the same time....the control circuit is different than previous master switch controlled rear windows used to be....the rear switches have their own logic circuits and it appears that if...

:cool:

my kingdom for a schematic & circuit description....remember when things were simple?....but back then onstar couldn't unlock doors...

you have to take your hat off at the table...hair is the only true 24/7 alternative....

the rear window switches are fed by the master switch....the master switch may operate the windows but not provide the proper feed for the slave switches... just a possibility....