Thanks for the replies:
Bowhunter22, was yours a 1996?
The online specs at the parts houses lump the 1996 and 1997 together and it appears that the 1998 is different.
Anyone else here change a fuel pump in a 1996?
I'm finding conflicting information on the fuel pump that this model uses:
-one says that the fuel pump and the fuel sending unit are seperate parts.
-another says that the fuel pump and sending unit are one piece.
My 1996 Suburban has a seperate fuel pump from the sending unit.
Just...
I wouldn't drive the car.
The broken piece is in the coolant system which is sealed and separate from the combustion and crankcase system but by driving the car, you will be circulating coolant and who knows where the broken piece will end up; in the heater core? in the radiator? stuck and...
For the next guy that breaks off the Quick Disconnect:
Here is a thread that shows how to remove the broken stub:
http://www.angelfire.com/mech/pa/heater_hose.html
Or, here is a removal tool:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-4916-119-dorman-heater-hose-fittings-heater-hose-800-408.aspx
You could try a shop vac but build a hose extension that will go down all the way in the hole. Some PVC pipe or rigid hose would work.
Make sure that your new QD is steel (use a magnet to confirm).
The cooling system is only pressurized at 16psi so you could always try using lots of thread...
Call Scangauge and they will have a solution for you. (I had the same problem with my Suburban and my Tahoe).
Phone: 480-656-4089
Fax: 480-656-4418
Toll Free: 888-433-5664
The Harrison HT6 compressor in your car has a design problem. The guys in the automotive A/C business refer to this compressor as "the belly leaker".
When the compressor was engineered, the barrel was not "keyed" to the front and rear covers....................after a while, the parts begin...
Everything you need to know:
http://www.market-place.com/intake/intake.htm
Make sure you replace the heater hose quick disconnect with a steel one. Remove the old one BEFORE you pull the LIM off. If it breaks, you'll have an easier time working on it while the manifold is off the engine.
Tailgate:
-Advantage: no "post" when viewing through your rear view mirror.
-Disadvantage: you have to reach over the tailgate (or climb on top of) to get to anything in the cargo area.
Barn Doors:
-Advantage: easier access to the cargo area
-Disadvantage: you can see the "post" when...
I found out the hard way that the "hook" is tempered. I tried to squeeze one of mine in a vise to tighten it a little. It cracked and I ended up getting one out of a wrecking yard.
I suppose you could always try heating up the hook with a propane torch and then try to tighten it.
Like...
Could be that part #16 is worn or broken:
http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/G/GC92342.gif
Description Year MSRP Price Your Price
Check strap Back 95-00 $25.96 $15.93
Or the springs are worn or broken:
Spring Right 95-00 $4.25 $2.52
Spring Left 95-00 $3.89 $2.30
Take fuel pressure readings at the schrader valve for a Vortec:
Key On / Engine off: ~60-66 PSI
Engine Running: ~58 PSI or Higher
Engine Running and blip the throttle: ~60-62 PSI or higher
1st place to start would be to check your low side pressure. If the pressure is low, you've got a freon leak that you need to find before going further.
If the pressure if OK, I would check the pressure switch on the accumulator.
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