'99 Tahoe, 2dr, White Basic, door lock info needed

K7KY

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Last year, I replaced both electric door lock assemblies. They look like solenoids, but I see them also called actuators. These have no motor sound, but make a clunk when activated. I think they're solenoids.

In any case, they recently failed simultaneously with a louder than normal clunk and the driver's door stuck locked. I had to open the door, clamp vice grips on the lock rod and tap it open with a hammer. Now, both door locks work manually, but not by signal. Dash relay clicks and rear hatch lock works correctly. I have two questions.

Is the simultaneously failure of both door locks a known issue, or as unlikely is it seems to me?

Is there a fuse or an overcurrent device built into the solenoid unit? The schematic representation of the solenoid appears to contain the electronic symbol for FUSE, but maybe it means MOTOR. A solenoid should have the symbol for a COIL, I would think

I had the driver's door open to free the lock, but didn't think to test the solenoid. Any insight you can give me will be helpful. I hope to repair these units if they're repairable. Thanks for checking my post.

BTW Our 'plain Jane' Basic has 160+kmi and is still a solid dependable ride. It was originally purchased by the Gov't, w/few extras. I love the simple wind-up windows; they remind me of most of the cars in my life.
 

PNW NBS Z71

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First, where in Southwest Oregon are you? I am in Oregon too.

Second, please tell me before we get any further in the weeds that you did not use a cheap aftermarket brand of actuator. Like a Dorman product. Very bad electrical components. Use only Genuine GM parts or Delphi if is an option. Plus, make sure that there is no binding with any linkages that attach at the actuator. Check all electrical connections for too much resistance and poor connections and check the wires in the convoluted tubing at the door jam.
 

K7KY

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First, where in Southwest Oregon are you? I am in Oregon too.

Second, please tell me before we get any further in the weeds that you did not use a cheap aftermarket brand of actuator. Like a Dorman product. Very bad electrical components. Use only Genuine GM parts or Delphi if is an option. Plus, make sure that there is no binding with any linkages that attach at the actuator. Check all electrical connections for too much resistance and poor connections and check the wires in the convoluted tubing at the door jam.
Thanks for your reply, PNW... SW/OR = Brookings, the closest Coastal town to the OR/CA border.

I don't recall the brand of actuators, but they're likely knock-offs; I'd probably recall paying $140. Instead of trying to repair the actuators, I'll replace them with GM parts. Good advice. Thanks for your troubleshooting suggestions; I followed them all.

You can tell me if you've heard of both actuators failing simultaneously. Although it seems highly unlikely, it could be caused by a voltage spike into marginal hardware. Possibly the voltage surge when the starter load drops and the alternator spins up? Just guessing at an odd event.

Thank you for helping me. You've saved me a bit of work that's difficult for me. I've found answers to other Tahoe issues on the Forum too. I hope to keep our Tahoe running smoothly for years. It's really solid for it's age.
 

PNW NBS Z71

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I used to own a 2 door 96 Tahoe that was white with black trim and I kick myself for selling it. I am in Eugene but my plans are to move back to Mo. next year after being here 27 years. This place is over run with idiots and homeless. I have an itchy trigger finger.

Both going bad at same time is usually a master switch problem but aftermarket crap can do that too. Maybe guts inside the actuators were crap to begin with. Where did you get them?

If you go to the other forum and post the last 8 digits of your VIN and ask for @915_Tahoe to help, he can give you the OE part numbers to track them down. You have to type it in that way, ( @915_Tahoe ), to get his attention. You can also check at the parts for sale area and see if anyone has them.

I looked at Rock Auto and did not see them. I will look elsewhere and see if I can find them.
 

K7KY

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Found original actuator numbers for GM

22071947-D/S and 22071946-P/S
Thanks again, PNW From my understanding of all news sources, returning to MO quickly is a wise move. I can't imagine living in or around Portland. We'd move to Montana or Wyoming if we could, but I'm 82 and disabled; no chance of leaving this homestead after 31yrs. I love it here. It's a time to remain alert and prepared to defend. People seem to be enraged or asleep.

I'll order and install GM actuators and let you know the outcome. Oh! Thanks for the Rock Auto links. The GM actuators I've located so far are all out of stock. Not a good sign. Having the locks work by signal is important to us. My wife is usually driving alone and the Tahoe is too wide for her to reach the PS lock w/o unclipping her seatbelt. The elec' locks make personal safety more convenient.

This is off-topic, but you may have a suggestion for me. PO added a chrome diff' cover. It was dripping and I found all the bolts close to hand-tight. Tightening them only delays leaking again a few months later. I think the chrome is too slick for the washers to bite. I added star washers and thought it was fixed, but a year later, it's dripping again. I'm thinking to change the bolts to Aviation grade drilled cap screws and lockwire them. What you think?
 

PNW NBS Z71

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Get rid of the chrome cover because oil will leak past the chrome because the gasket cannot seal correctly. Use the standard attaching bolts and flat or star washers.

Better yet, use this cover and gasket and bolts from GM if it is a 9.5 inch ring gear. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10372904&cc=1353721&pt=2306&jsn=1608&jsn=1608

Use this kit if is 8.5" ring gear: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10373960&cc=1353721&pt=2306&jsn=1610

You can see the shape difference of the cover where it bolts to the differential.

Please remember that I am not guaranteeing the actuator repair but is my best GUESS after running shops for 35+ years.

Since I am spending your money, remember I said the master switch could be bad or damaged.....the switch makes a difference if you have power windows...tell me.

My cousin is in Paradise, Ca. and she is buying a home in Warrensburg, Mo. and wants me to come live with her. She is 3 years younger than me and I am 68. She wants to be close to son that lives in Warrensburg. She is fed up with the crap in Ca. after 50+ years.
 
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PNW NBS Z71

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If you have a G87 RPO code, you have a 8.5 ring gear. If not, it is likely the 9.5 ring gear which is very rare for that rig. It also would have that "OVAL" shaped cover, like in the pic of the link. The other is the round cover for the 8.5 ring gear
 

K7KY

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If you have a G87 RPO code, you have a 8.5 ring gear. If not, it is likely the 9.5 ring gear which is very rare for that rig. It also would have that "OVAL" shaped cover, like in the pic of the link. The other is the round cover for the 8.5 ring gear
Thanks again, PNW... I have the 8.5" differential and I've ordered the kit from Rock Auto. Safety wiring the Chrome cover would have been difficult for me. I have an appointment with an honest and competent mechanic next month; he'll replace the cover for me. I'm glad I thought to ask you about this problem. You've saved me a lot of trial & error work that's difficult for me these days.

Oh!, no power windows and the master switch is good, same for P door switch. Wiring and switches test OK. I can hear the relay behind dash and rear hatch switch and actuator work correctly. I think new (quality) actuators will resolve the problem. Good on you for sharing your years of experience thru the Tahoe Forum. It's the sense of community and spirit of cooperation that built this country and the shared values that will get most of us through this transition. Those creating fear and dissention will not fare well.
 

PNW NBS Z71

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Was the mechanic recommended to you or you already knew about him? Is he ASE Certified? Reputable shop with good reviews? One man show?

Is he going to do the actuators and then get in there to double check everything?

I have been on the Tahoe/Yukon Forum since Oct. 2014. Love it there but sometimes I get bored so I found this sister forum to that one and paid money to be a Supporting Member. The more problems solved the better for everyone. Plus, with my 35+ years experience in the field, I feel I can not only help but also educate about proper procedures for certain aspects of auto/truck diagnosis and repair. Hard to explain some diagnostics because of how long it takes to type out some procedures and sometimes not great info from the owner of the rig. I then tell them to look at several you tube videos to get the idea.

I am making my 05 Tahoe Z71 like new again with a few custom pieces. I have two techs that used to work for me that own a shop and whatever I don't want to tackle, they do it for me. I am replacing known good parts, with unknown mileage and time on the rig, to get back to like new. I have the money and want it as close to perfect as I can get because I will not be close to a KNOWN GOOD SHOP when I am in Warrensburg, Mo. till I do my research. My list of parts done on the Z71:

Pedal pressure sensor assembly, steering gear box, 8 injectors, throttle body, refurbished pristine a/c-heater controller, Corvette servo, blower motor, cannister purge, cannister solenoid, fuel pump, charcoal cannister and bracket, complete new evap hoses/lines, alternator, water pump, thermostat, starter, positive and negative cables and did the Big 3 ground upgrade, radiator, vacuum hoses, upper rad hose, lower rad hose, coolant reservoir, new cap, all heater hoses and tees, outer mirrors, all rear control arms and track bar, all oxygen sensors, third brake light, 2018 GMC truck wheels with custom black bow tie center caps, plugs, wires, MAF, MAP, all belts, complete fluid change for every fluid and trans filter, P/S pump and hoses, new hydro-boost and new master cylinder, motor mounts and trans mounts, Interstate AGM battery, knock sensors, oil sender, intake and valve cover gaskets, 8 ignition coils, steering wheel position sensor, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rods, center link, both front axles, upper and lower control arms with bushings and ball joints, both hub bearings, both rear axle seals and bearings, engine rear main seal, torque converter seal, KYB shocks all around, belt tensioners and idlers, complete front and rear brake pads, calipers, rotors, oil cooler lines and trans lines, rear park brake shoe assemblies, refurbished stock radio and cd player, various paint work and soon to be done exhaust work.
 

K7KY

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Was the mechanic recommended to you or you already knew about him? Is he ASE Certified? Reputable shop with good reviews? One man show?

Is he going to do the actuators and then get in there to double check everything?

I have been on the Tahoe/Yukon Forum since Oct. 2014. Love it there but sometimes I get bored so I found this sister forum to that one and paid money to be a Supporting Member. The more problems solved the better for everyone. Plus, with my 35+ years experience in the field, I feel I can not only help but also educate about proper procedures for certain aspects of auto/truck diagnosis and repair. Hard to explain some diagnostics because of how long it takes to type out some procedures and sometimes not great info from the owner of the rig. I then tell them to look at several you tube videos to get the idea.

I am making my 05 Tahoe Z71 like new again with a few custom pieces. I have two techs that used to work for me that own a shop and whatever I don't want to tackle, they do it for me. I am replacing known good parts, with unknown mileage and time on the rig, to get back to like new. I have the money and want it as close to perfect as I can get because I will not be close to a KNOWN GOOD SHOP when I am in Warrensburg, Mo. till I do my research. My list of parts done on the Z71:

Pedal pressure sensor assembly, steering gear box, 8 injectors, throttle body, refurbished pristine a/c-heater controller, Corvette servo, blower motor, cannister purge, cannister solenoid, fuel pump, charcoal cannister and bracket, complete new evap hoses/lines, alternator, water pump, thermostat, starter, positive and negative cables and did the Big 3 ground upgrade, radiator, vacuum hoses, upper rad hose, lower rad hose, coolant reservoir, new cap, all heater hoses and tees, outer mirrors, all rear control arms and track bar, all oxygen sensors, third brake light, 2018 GMC truck wheels with custom black bow tie center caps, plugs, wires, MAF, MAP, all belts, complete fluid change for every fluid and trans filter, P/S pump and hoses, new hydro-boost and new master cylinder, motor mounts and trans mounts, Interstate AGM battery, knock sensors, oil sender, intake and valve cover gaskets, 8 ignition coils, steering wheel position sensor, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rods, center link, both front axles, upper and lower control arms with bushings and ball joints, both hub bearings, both rear axle seals and bearings, engine rear main seal, torque converter seal, KYB shocks all around, belt tensioners and idlers, complete front and rear brake pads, calipers, rotors, oil cooler lines and trans lines, rear park brake shoe assemblies, refurbished stock radio and cd player, various paint work and soon to be done exhaust work.
The mechanic (Joe) was recommended by my Doctor. He has the usual Doctor's antenna for rip-off tradesmen. Joe is also his patient and they occasionally trade-out repairs for treatment. Joe has already proven solid for me. He's in the next town south in California and I wouldn't travel that far for auto service w/o cause. It's a small shop w/one long term mechanic. They're always busy; this appointment took 4wks. I'll install the actuators myself, having opened the doors three times now and done the TS myself. Joe is replacing the front left wheel sensor and probably replacing the water pump. The Tahoe drips a little water after it cools, but doesn't leak while warm. I think the WP seal is beginning to fail and only leaks when cool. I can trust Joe to discover what's up and fix what's needed.

Wow! Your 2dr both looks new and seems to have more new parts than originals. I wish ours was so sound, but I'll have to content myself with doing the best preventative maintenance I can afford and replacing parts before they fail as I can. It's in remarkable condition for a 22yr old truck.

I've bought & sold cars my whole life, sometimes my only income. I took Corvettes to Europe in the 70's; before GM exported them. They would sell in a week or less. I brought back MB & BMWs; they have the greatest margin and interested buyers are less inclined to bargain hard when the vehicle has maintenance records and presents well. I sold these cars in San Francisco where there was a demand for non-US Safety standard cars. I sourced and sold MB Gelandewagens before MB imported them to US. Now, the margin is gone & I'm long retired (-: I loved the G-wagons; most had limited-slip/full-lock fr/bk . They climb like a D4 Cat.

Another off-topic issue and please tell me if it's best to start another thread. PO removed the spare tire mount to accommodate big speakers and stereo gear. I have the spare chained to prevent it flying about in an accident. I've been unable to source the correct 2dr mount from salvage shops. There may be one of these mounts in a Forum members garage that will have my spare mounted correctly again. The 2dr mount is different from 4dr.
 

PNW NBS Z71

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I will look for the 2dr mount. May or may not be able to find one but I will try. I can post at the other forum too.
 
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