Big 3 Wiring Upgrade

[boostaholic]

Figured I would link a good write up on one of the cheapest and most mandatory charging system upgrades for the nbs trucks (also works on most any other vehicle). The stock charging system is decent on our trucks but re-wiring the alternator, battery, and grounds will produce better operation of all electrical systems and can usually increase fuel economy by a slight margin. For all the guys running aftermarket a/v equipment this should be top priority, I'm upgrading mine before the amps even make their way into the truck. I also listed a link for a place online that sells a wiring kit with pre-cut lengths and connectors to make it really easy on the shadetree mechanics, I'm using high grade telecomunications 2ga but any decent car audio 4ga or welding cable will be more than sufficient. I have done this upgrade on almost all the vehicles I have owned, it really is night and day difference and usually eliminates the need for a capacitor as long as you have a good alternator (I HATE capacitors!).
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums...deo-electronics/120517-nbs-big-3-upgrade.html
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=28_56&products_id=165

 

[Slammed]

I did this in my previous car with 1000 watt amp pushing to JBL 12's and I could see a big difference and no diming in my lights after this. I will be installing the same setup in my Tahoe

 

[WrenchGuy]

Done! 300 amp alt next week. Yes do it just cuz its easy and functional.

 

[Rollin Thunder]

Done! 300 amp alt next week. Yes do it just cuz its easy and functional.

awsome, can you give me more info on what brand and where you found your 300 amp, the most i could get was 200 amps, i would love a 300 amp one.

thanks RT

 

[WrenchGuy]

awsome, can you give me more info on what brand and where you found your 300 amp, the most i could get was 200 amps, i would love a 300 amp one.

thanks RT

Excessive Amperage. Nate is a very good guy and will take care of you. He is an excellent dude just give em your info. I can PM him for you to get a quote. Year and engine is all I need. I got mine on a group buy but maybe.

 

[Rollin Thunder]

cool, with that much power, wont it fry my electrical system, or does it control its output, like normal load or when i turn on all my lights, then it kicks in those extra amps:man:

 

[WrenchGuy]

cool, with that much power, wont it fry my electrical system, or does it control its output, like normal load or when i turn on all my lights, then it kicks in those extra amps:man:

No worries its a bolt on item FTW! Year and Engine is all he needs and they are internally regulated to the vehicle given. Here's a good link to the Fry My Electrical worry.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63883

 

[72hotrod]

It is my understanding that the practical limit of output from any given alternator case is it's cooling capacity. Too much output from the wrong case will not be as reliable due to overheating. Just get the highest output OEM offering for your alternator type for best reliability. Unless your trying to run an underhood welder.

 

[Rollin Thunder]

It is my understanding that the practical limit of output from any given alternator case is it's cooling capacity. Too much output from the wrong case will not be as reliable due to overheating. Just get the highest output OEM offering for your alternator type for best reliability. Unless your trying to run an underhood welder.

no just a bunch of lights:cool2:

 

[Rollin Thunder]

No worries its a bolt on item FTW! Year and Engine is all he needs and they are internally regulated to the vehicle given. Here's a good link to the Fry My Electrical worry.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63883

thanks for the info, i gunna think about that and maybe give him a call, i would have to change my wireing out and i dont mess with the big electrical stuff, already got charged one day helping with a water heater, aint gunna do that again. so now im scared to mess and have alot of respect for electricity.

 

[WrenchGuy]

thanks for the info, i gunna think about that and maybe give him a call, i would have to change my wireing out and i dont mess with the big electrical stuff, already got charged one day helping with a water heater, aint gunna do that again. so now im scared to mess and have alot of respect for electricity.

If your doing the Big 3 dont worry. Just add to the stock wire. The current will follow the least amount of resistance. Just fuse from the Alt to battery for safety. I have to do this yet but haven't come across a cheapy fuse holder yet.

 

[Rollin Thunder]

If your doing the Big 3 dont worry. Just add to the stock wire. The current will follow the least amount of resistance. Just fuse from the Alt to battery for safety. I have to do this yet but haven't come across a cheapy fuse holder yet.

i want to have that done anyway, weather i upgrade to a 250 or 300 amp alternator. does a standard mechnics shop do that or just custom shops??

 

[WrenchGuy]

i want to have that done anyway, weather i upgrade to a 250 or 300 amp alternator. does a standard mechnics shop do that or just custom shops??

Funny you ask most of em don't even know what the hell your talkin about. I can take pics of my Big 3 tomorrow. Just ask around though. I think you'd have a better shot starting with Starter and Alternator shops. What makes you not want to do it. The Tahoe is easy as hell the Yukon should be the same. Everything is right there no chasing. Here....

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355

 

[thdrill]

sorry for asking what is probably a dumb question; but how does inc your alternator to 200 amps and doing the "Big 3" upgrade help in fuel economy?

 

[WrenchGuy]

sorry for asking what is probably a dumb question; but how does inc your alternator to 200 amps and doing the "Big 3" upgrade help in fuel economy?

Well our new vehicles have lots of electronics. Adding to it doesn't help. The Big 3 would help fuel efficiency cuz what burns it? With that part of the electrical working well its helping a little more. Stock is just enough to run the truck efficiently.

 

[bzbatl]

Lemme help you with an edit:

Stock is just enough to run the truck sufficiently.

I'm confused by the wiring diagram. Positive goes from battery to alternator. Check.

Negative goes from battery to chassis. Check...ish.

Cable goes from engine block to chassis. Where? Same spot? It doesn't look like it's wired to the same spot in the photos, there should be two silver wires coming off one point somewhere...

 

[WrenchGuy]

Sufficiently works yeah.

I just did exactly that, battery GND to Chassis. Pick a spot and scrape paint. Alt POS to bat easy enough. I just used chassis to ALT mount bolt for ENG ground.

 

[bzbatl]

Ah good deal. Thanks for your input.

Did most of you go with big daddy 0 or 1/0 or just stick with the more available 4g?

 

[boostaholic]

I have a whole crapload of 2ga that I used on my tahoe, 1/0 or 2ga is the smallest I would run but for anyone not running a big dumb stereo over 2000watts the 4ga will be more than sufficient.

 

[bzbatl]

Yeah, I realize that the bigger cable is better, but I have a whole crapload of 4g laying around :lol:

I've got a big dumb stereo, but it's only pushing 1200W total :yesnod:

I think I'll just go with the 4g for now and if I don't see any improvement with the light dimming (I get it when I roll down multiple windows) then I'll order some of that fancy wire from the Intrawebs.