Might buy some custom wheels?

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MarkD51

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Met a local woman in town, who owns a 2005 Yukon Denali, who I helped shortly at work. On her Yukon is a beautiful set of Black Rhino Pandora 22"x9.5" in Silver Finish, with Nitto NT420 S 305-40/22" Tires. I gather offset on the Rims are +30mm. Called Black Rhino, and the tech said yes, they would fit my vehicle (1997 Tahoe 4x4) the tires are roughly the same diameter as my Michelin LTX 275-70/16 with 8.5" x16 rims, but the tires/wheels are wider.

Her, and her husband want to sell the set, and go with something a little smaller instead. The Wheels are in perfect unmolested condition not a mark on any of them, were bought 2-27-13, and have exactly 10K on them. No Flats, etc.

I believe Wheel Bore Size is 87mm, Hub Size on my Tahoe is something like 78.3mm, so probably wise to have some hubcentric rings.

I have not negotiated a price yet, but this package new costs about $2277.00 (maybe a little less without the lifetime road hazard, about $2500 or so)

May I ask you folk's opinion as to what you might offer for them?
I was thinking $1100-$1200, and I know this is probably a low ball offer, and better to start low, rather than too high.

Honestly, although they are beautiful looking, no curb rash, etc, and their vehicle does appear very well maintained, I'm not sure I would offer that much more than my initial quotes above? Whattya think?

In this neck of the woods, money is very tight, most people here throw around nickels like sewer covers, while they'd probably like getting more, they might wait a heck a long long time to get more money than I am thinking of offering

Hope this topic is in the right place, and is not breaking any rules here, thanks, Mark
 
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07burb

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Definitely offer low. Wheels and tires are something that don't hold their value at all and once they are used their value drops like a rock. Honestly I'd offer $1k and see what they say.
 

MarkD51

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Definitely offer low. Wheels and tires are something that don't hold their value at all and once they are used their value drops like a rock. Honestly I'd offer $1k and see what they say.

Hello, and thanks for your reply.

Over the past 24 hours, I've come to the conclusion as you have stated.

To offer $1K, and no more. Of course it is my goal to get a good deal, and the sellers wish to get top dollar, two prices which will of course be different.

One important consideration for myself is, absolutely no warrantee on anything, I'll be on my own if I buy these.

Here in this town where I live, 99% of people here wouldn't buy them for $300, let alone $1000, and tire dealers won't deal with such, they're only interested in selling you new tires-wheels, not taking your old in any sort of trade.

I did notice slight rub on their 2005 Yukon Denali, and even though my '97 does appear to sit higher, it is still a concern.

Other concerns are why they wish to dump them, and would surely wish to go on a test drive to check for things like vibration at speed, or other issues like road noise. I'd read a few comments on the Nitto NT420S as being a noisy tire, and surely don't want that.

I'll stick firm to the $1K price, if they don't bite, that's how it goes.
 

07burb

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For what it's worth, I have Nitto 420s on my 07 suburban and have really liked them. I've had them for over a year now. They perform well in all weather and I have not noticed them being loud :shrug: I'd buy another set without hesitation.
 

MarkD51

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MarkD51

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DSCN0401.JPG

Here's a pic of my Tahoe as it currently looks. Sure, it looks killer, as it should, considering it only has 39K on the Odo.

But it does looks so "90's", time to update to a more modern look!
 

MarkD51

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Having past owned vehicles like Jeep Cherokees, and a couple 4x4 Pickups (84 GMC Duallie and 90 Dodge With Cummins Diesel) those 3 had what I will call "noisy" tires Goodyear Wrangler AT and RT, and BFG All Terrains.

I literally made more noise going down the road than 18 wheelers. Certainly don't wish that droning hum-noise on myself ever again.

Noise is of course a relative term, the Nitto NT420S appears to me to be more of a sports-street tire, and gather that the siping that runs completely around the tire should help with stability in rainy conditions. Looks like there's lots of interesting technology built into the Nitto. H rating on these particular Nitto's will be fine. My Tahoe is not a super sports car needing V or Z rated tires.

I'll probably call tomorrow and make my offer to them. If they don't bite, then I guess all is not lost.

I do have some basic knowledge, that as aspect ratio lowers, the sidewalls which act as a "primary" suspension are less, and while one might gain handling, and less sway like I note with the 16" LTX, the ride might become a bit harsher also.

If the deal falls through, I will then seriously consider something like a 20"x9" custom wheel, and 275/55-20" Tire. Many Pickups-SUVs today come with such, and such should not present problems such as a too harsh ride, and be a great all around combination. Again, I might look to the Nitto NT420, or the Hankook Ventus? Both seem to be good tires that won't break the bank like a Michelin LTX2 in that size will.
Mark
 

MarkD51

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The Black Rhino Pandora Silver Wheel is said to of course be silver (not chrome) with a machine polished face, and rim. But, I cannot find any info on this wheel whether the Machined face and rim are clear coated or not?

I even called Rhino, and got basically no info from the person on the phone, only to only wash them with soap and water, nothing else.

I am of course aware that many wheel cleaners sold off the shelf are quite harsh, and can permanently etch-stain a wheel, especially one that is painted-clear coated.
If the face and rim are uncoated, then I of course know what to do with them, that prior to coating them with a high tech permanent coating, I'll of course hand polish the faces and rim with a good metal polish which I have many on hand. If they are clear coated, then a very mild paint polish, something like Megs #205 will be the best choice.

I then have the proper cleansing polishes to strip-remove any oils from polishes that will hinder adhesion of said high tech coatings.

They would most likely get a spray down with Carpro Iron-X first, a ph neutral product to remove-dissolve all ferrous particles (brake dust-fallout) on the wheels, then be coated with Optimum Opti-Coat, a permanent resin Coating which should prove to be the best choice, and is known to be the longest lasting coating on the market today, and offer the best long term protection bar none.

Opti-Coat isn't cheap at about $80 for a small styringe, but very little is used-needed for 4 wheels, I can use it on some other things.

I have Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel which is a very good product, doesn't contain silicones like Armor All, which does more harm than good, but I might opt for a even better, longer lasting product that is called Tuff Shine.

I commonly do business with autogeek, and can get what I need in a matter of a week's time.

I'll keep you folks posted on what happens. Sorry if it appears I'm putting the cart before the horse with this post.
 

MarkD51

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Thank you 07Burb for sticking along with me on this one.

Well, the folks called me back, after my offer of $1K, They wished for $1300, and then asked if we could meet in the middle, and I kindly, but firmly said no.

Reason was, is for about another $300 cash, I could walk into the local Discount Tire here in town, or order direct from DiscountTireDirect, and buy brand new 20's, with new Hankook Tires for about $1600.

So, the husband and wife came to terms, and agreed with my $1K asking price.

Well, now here comes a whole lot of unknowns? Will they fit? Will they rub? Will they work as I'm hoping they will, without vibrations that will rattle my teeth out (what's left of them! LOL)

Spending $15-$25 having a wheel or two re-balanced doesn't bother me, buying a set of 4 hubcentric rings to fit doesn't bother me.

As far as I know, and can best tell, my vehicle is currently sitting at its stock ride height.

About 6 months ago, I had noted my passenger side drooping quite a bit, was 1" lower than the driver's side in the front.

Upon inspection, I could see one of the Torsion Bar Key's Adjustment Bolts having backed out quite a bit. About 7 turns, which is quite a lot.

Being the original owner of this Tahoe (I ordered this truck fully loaded in fall '96) I quickly recognized, and remember just how those Adjustment Bolts looked from new, the passenger side did clearly come loose.

I only re-adjusted, and tightened the passenger side when I went to re-level the front suspension, I never touched the driver's side.

Now, both Adjustment Bolts look like they did 16 years ago, the front is at stock height, no more. (funny how I have an elephant's memory on such crap!)

So, with that said, I can probably ever so slightly further crank the front Torsion Bars if need be. I know well not to of course get excessive with such, 3/8" yeah, maybe 1/2" more yeah. any further, maybe no.

On the back, I have Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags, usually keep about 30-35psi in them, they can go to 100psi, but of course that too will murder the ride unless I have 1K of weight in the back.

I'll keep you folks continually posted on this ordeal, I supposed to meet with these people this coming Tuesday, to at least take a ride in the vehicle on the highway, to see how they feel on their vehicle. Might give me some idea what I'm in for.

Thank you again 07Burb, will be keeping you and the other members here posted,
Mark
 

07burb

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Well, it sounds like you got the price right. Now let's hope that they feel good when you drive on them on Tuesday :)
 

MarkD51

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Well, it sounds like you got the price right. Now let's hope that they feel good when you drive on them on Tuesday :)

Not exactly sure if they'll be coming off their Yukon this coming Tuesday, probably not. But hopefully before this week is out, I will have them in hand.

I want to be there when they are dis-mounted from the vehicle, even if it means missing work. I'm very leery, and have seen goons chew the living crap out of good wheels with an impact wrench and socket. They better be using hand methods to remove, otherwise, they get chewed up, no sale.

I'll do a dry fit when the time allows, and then from there most likely will order the required Hubcentric Rings. I never had such on my other rims, but this time I'll think I'll spend the few dollars for such.

After I can confirm fit, and get past that, and hopefully all is OK, I'll place an order on Autogeek for a Styringe of Optimum Opti-Coat V2.0, and the Tuff Shine Tire Cleaning-Coating Kit. I wanna do these right! The Opti-Coat should last an easy 3-4 years on the Wheels, and the Tuff Shine Tire products are the best on the market, longest lasting.

The wheels will first be treated to Carpro Iron-X. This will dissolve-remove all iron contamination on the wheels, then just a simple rinse with water, and a wash with Duragloss Shampoo. If any polishing is needed, that will be done, then degrease-clean with Pinnacle Gold Lable Paint Cleanser. This gets everything off, all greases, oils, silicones, etc, so the Opti-Coat will properly bond to the wheel. There's nothing out there that will last longer than Opti-Coat.

There's a cure time for the Opti-Coat, at least a good 24 hours with no wetting, or washes.

Crossing my fingers all goes well, and of course this thread will be useless without pics. When the time comes, I will certainly take a slew of them for you folks to see.
Mark
 

MarkD51

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A good friend exclaimed about the wheel-tire combo being a lot of unsprung weight on a stock Tahoe suspension, but that is the least of my worries.

Firstly, the Michelin 275/70-16 LTX is quite a heavy tire, weighing in at 40 lbs. I supect what the 305/40-22 Nittos add due to tread-sectional width, they lose in sidewall rubber.

Same with the wheels, my OW 16x8.5 rims have three spokes the thickness of my wrists, really substantial for a 16" Alu wheel.

If there's any weight gain, I suspect the difference to be a mere 2-4 lbs at most. Who knows, the 22's and Nittos might actually be lighter, I will try to compare to gain knowledge on this matter.

My suspension, and brakes aren't exactly bone stock.

At about 6K, I removed all stock wimpy "so called black Bilstein Shocks" off the truck, chucked them in the trash can, and bought 4 HD yellow "real" Bilsteins, and installed. Those set me back about $3 bills.

The stock rubber sway bar bushings, and links went in the trash, replaced by Rancho Red Poly Bushings throughout with Zerk grease fittings on the sway bar bushings themselves.

Also on the rear, sit two Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags.

Up front are two Stillen larger Calipers, they take 3/4 ton Pads, the Pads on board are Ceramic, and the Rotors are stock size, but slotted. Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses front and rear.

And one other little trick up my sleeve, I do have a Hypertech Programmer. Thus, I can enter the new tire Diameter into the ECM, and re-calibrate the speedo so there's no error.
Mark
 
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