Maybe
New Member
Just picked up a 2004 Yukon XL SLT on Saturday. (Woohoo!) First Tahoe type vehicle in the family, so I'm a total noob. Hope I'm not asking a terribly stupid question. I have read the owner's manual, and skimmed through the forums for a few days.
This is a Canadian truck, bought from an Ontario GM dealer as a "GM Optimum" used vehicle. I dunno what the 150 point inspection checklist is about, because several items on it were totally ignored. Oil overfilled by about a litre, piles of leaves in the air filter housing, interior door light/lens totally missing...I'm talking "obvious to a girl" stuff here. Soooo....I'm looking for outside information to doublecheck their stories from here on out.
What I could really use some guidance on right now is the subject of key fobs and the truck's "1" and "2" memories. The truck was traded in with 1 key and 1 fob. Pretty unremarkable looking: open padlock button, closed padlock button, red bugle button. No writing anywhere on it other than 3 lines on the back side of the housing:
GM 219997127
CANADA 109G 12021
MODEL/FCCID LHJ011
There was supposed to be a second fob/key ready and waiting for us at the vehicle's arranged delivery time, but that didn't happen. They did cut a new key while we waited, but a fob was a problem. The salesman dug out a junk drawer type box of mixed used fobs, and said we'd have to look through to find one with 12021 on the back. Then they couldn't program it for me because nobody technical works on Saturday. I'd have to take it to their other branch closer to home for programming during the week. No, I couldn't program it myself, it requires some spiffy computer to be plugged in by factory trained men.
That sounded a little odd, considering how simple and straightforward this tutorial is. I fix computers for a living - I think I can jumper a couple pins. But ok, not worth pushing when at the time, I believed everything else had been properly looked after. Cheerfully agreed to swing past their local branch on Tuesday, and went home.
When Hubby and I had time to sit down with the manual, we noticed the "1 & 2" fob thing. I can't for the life of me find anything on these fobs that would differentiate 1 from 2. They're absolutely, totally identical, and I don't see a single digit 1 or 2 standing apart anywhere.
Since the truck has electrical problems (fog light dead, door lamp missing, driver's seat bottom doesn't raise/lower, yadda), I've got to wait til next week when the electrical guy gets off holiday to get anything done. In the meanwhile, the one working fob's unlock key physically jams in the down position, and it only transmits <80% of the time. I'd feel a lot more secure if this 2nd junker fob worked, but I'm leery of trying to introduce it to the truck before I know a little more about the whole "1 & 2" thing.
So, the nutshell version:
1) what do the 1 & 2 markings on proper fobs look like?
2) is it possible that the working fob isn't original?
3) will I screw anything up by programming the "spare" fob?
4) just a doublecheck - is this the proper procedure for my year/model?
Thanks very kindly!
Maybe
This is a Canadian truck, bought from an Ontario GM dealer as a "GM Optimum" used vehicle. I dunno what the 150 point inspection checklist is about, because several items on it were totally ignored. Oil overfilled by about a litre, piles of leaves in the air filter housing, interior door light/lens totally missing...I'm talking "obvious to a girl" stuff here. Soooo....I'm looking for outside information to doublecheck their stories from here on out.
What I could really use some guidance on right now is the subject of key fobs and the truck's "1" and "2" memories. The truck was traded in with 1 key and 1 fob. Pretty unremarkable looking: open padlock button, closed padlock button, red bugle button. No writing anywhere on it other than 3 lines on the back side of the housing:
GM 219997127
CANADA 109G 12021
MODEL/FCCID LHJ011
There was supposed to be a second fob/key ready and waiting for us at the vehicle's arranged delivery time, but that didn't happen. They did cut a new key while we waited, but a fob was a problem. The salesman dug out a junk drawer type box of mixed used fobs, and said we'd have to look through to find one with 12021 on the back. Then they couldn't program it for me because nobody technical works on Saturday. I'd have to take it to their other branch closer to home for programming during the week. No, I couldn't program it myself, it requires some spiffy computer to be plugged in by factory trained men.
That sounded a little odd, considering how simple and straightforward this tutorial is. I fix computers for a living - I think I can jumper a couple pins. But ok, not worth pushing when at the time, I believed everything else had been properly looked after. Cheerfully agreed to swing past their local branch on Tuesday, and went home.
When Hubby and I had time to sit down with the manual, we noticed the "1 & 2" fob thing. I can't for the life of me find anything on these fobs that would differentiate 1 from 2. They're absolutely, totally identical, and I don't see a single digit 1 or 2 standing apart anywhere.
Since the truck has electrical problems (fog light dead, door lamp missing, driver's seat bottom doesn't raise/lower, yadda), I've got to wait til next week when the electrical guy gets off holiday to get anything done. In the meanwhile, the one working fob's unlock key physically jams in the down position, and it only transmits <80% of the time. I'd feel a lot more secure if this 2nd junker fob worked, but I'm leery of trying to introduce it to the truck before I know a little more about the whole "1 & 2" thing.
So, the nutshell version:
1) what do the 1 & 2 markings on proper fobs look like?
2) is it possible that the working fob isn't original?
3) will I screw anything up by programming the "spare" fob?
4) just a doublecheck - is this the proper procedure for my year/model?
Thanks very kindly!
Maybe
