Power rear windows with external power & open rear door from inside

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Ice98

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So I have a '96 suburban LT, I often use this as a place to sleep on weekends spent out doing whatever and so far it has worked pretty well, have a nice foam pad back there and its reasonably comfortable.

I want to add some further functionality to that effect, and my first thought is to wire in a 12v socket to the power wires on the 2 rear windows so that they can be rolled up and down using an external jump pack or 12v battery

I have a couple questions that hopefully someone can answer to that regard

1. what color are the wires (at the point they enter the pillar) that run power to the rear left and rear right window switch

2. If I wire it up in this way, would the 12v socket then also function as a power source during the times the ignition is turned on?


Next I wanted to address the point of egress, while it is not exactly terrible exiting through the rear passenger doors, it is also by no means easy, I want to be able to wire up a handle or even something as simple as a pull wire to the rear barn door in order to open it from the inside, anyone have any input on what would be the best option here?


Any other thoughts on additions that would benefit the "rough camper" type setup? I already have a small inverter but have thought of a battery bank with a full sine inverter to run a heated pad for the cold months


Any help is appreciated, thanks
 

lesterl

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Upgrade the alternator if you are doing the battery bank.

PM me your email addy I will try to get you a schematic....

I would just put in a SPDT toggle switch to bypass the ignition cutout of power to the windows, common terminal feed the window switches, one feed to the ignition side, other to a circuit breaker feed off the battery.

Might add some LED lighting so as to not run the batterys down as fast.
 

Ice98

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Upgrade the alternator if you are doing the battery bank.

PM me your email addy I will try to get you a schematic....

I would just put in a SPDT toggle switch to bypass the ignition cutout of power to the windows, common terminal feed the window switches, one feed to the ignition side, other to a circuit breaker feed off the battery.

Might add some LED lighting so as to not run the batterys down as fast.

I have a jump pack with a sizable SLA battery in it, I plan to use that for power and skip using power from the vehicles battery at all, push come to shove I can charge that using a power inverter while the rig is running
 

lesterl

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Just get an RV Isolation block (one for house/ car battery) and charge off alternator.....
 

Ice98

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Just get an RV Isolation block (one for house/ car battery) and charge off alternator.....

If I eventually get he cash to build out a real battery bank I will do that, as well as a full sine inverter, but for now I gotta keep the budget tight
 

lesterl

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Yeah, hear ya there, have no money for truck parts because I spend money on truck parts...... :) what a conundrum.....
 

Ice98

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Yeah, hear ya there, have no money for truck parts because I spend money on truck parts...... :) what a conundrum.....

It never ends, but there is no more worthy vehicle of a little TLC :-D
 

Ice98

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Got some parts ordered

tap in connectors
12v socket (combo unit, also shows voltage and has 2 usb ports)
12v plug
on/off switch (for the 12v display, I hate lights when I am sleeping)

Still gotta figure out what plug/connector to use inside the ash tray


Also ordered an ACDelco fuel filter and a set of Hellwig 1801 helper springs to bring a little life back into my leafs without continuing to stress the hell out of these MA779 air shocks I have installed

Also on the block is to flush the coolant and replace the thermostat and radiator cap (mostly just because), replace the seals in my AC compressor, replace the orifice tube, replace the condenser, vacuum the system, replace oil, and recharge....uhg, too much to do
 

lesterl

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Check the LIM gaskets when doing the thermostat.....
 

Ice98

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Check the LIM gaskets when doing the thermostat.....

Doesn't a lot more have to come off the top to get to being able to check those? Thermostat (IIRC) is pretty easy to get to and replace
 

lesterl

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You can do alot of 'checking' with an inspection mirror....... Check specifically around the contact points between the head and intake at the ends of the heads (4 points to inspect and below), look for signs of wetness and/ or mineral buildup/streaking....

You would need to pull the whole intake and valve covers to do the gaskets if they are leaking....
 
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