Rear Door Speakers And Amp Answers


New Member
OK guys, I have seen many people ask questions, and I was too.
I have got some answers.

the rear door speakers are 6.5", the wire colors are:
Left side (-) tan (+) white
Right side (-) red (+) tan

I have a 2000 Tahoe Z71 old body ( same look as 95-99), the rear door speakers in my truck are factory amplified. only these two speakers though.
The amp in my truck was located under the dash, above the gas pedal, just behind the horizontal knee bolster bar/pipe. It is silver in color and about the size of a stick of deodorant (squared corners of course) (only common item with same size I could think of)

The wire harness going into the amp has 10 wires. Orange: 12v+, Black: ground, Red: R- output, 2 Tans: L-/R+ outputs, White: L+ output, Brown: L+ input, Yellow: L- input, Dark Blue: R+ input, Light Blue: R- input.

I'm not sure if the speaker inputs to the amp com directly from the stereo, from the rear roof speakers, or from a splice somewhere.

Now, If your truck has a custom stereo, and your rear door speakers are not working, it is most likely that the installer neglected to hook up the amp. This can be done by connecting the pink antenna wire from the factory harness to the blue remote or power antenna output of your custom deck. OR, you can just run a direct line from a constant 12v+ to your orange wire on your amp, but unless you put a switch on this, you will suffer battery drain as it will constantly be on.

If you have the factory deck, and your rear door speakers are not working, don't be dumb like me and start ripping apart the whole dash and such looking for the problem. I spent 6 hours today searching for the problem, before I finally called a Chevy dealership and had them print me out the wiring diagrams. COME TO FIND OUT: it was just a fuse. The amp on my truck draws its power from the cigar lighter circuit/fuse. Which in my truck, the fuse was blown. So after 6 hours of multimeter/voltmeter work, all I had to do was replace the fuse. At least I got to know my truck!

1: pic of the wiring harness
2: pic of the amp relative to the gas pedal.(wires on top are the amp harness)
3: pic of amp from below dash (note: the heat sink that looks like an amp on top of pic, is not the amp)
4: speaker wiring diagram
5: amp power diagram

any other questions, or need bigger copies of photos, let me know.


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Full Access Member
And also - remember that there are two wire-harness's for these tahoes/yukons - one w/out the AMP one w/ the AMP - if you got the one with-out than you aren't gonna have sound out of those two speakers either.. - and hook up the Power Ant. wire - that is the power for the Amp!

Dr. Overkill

New Member
I don't think the 2-doors had this amp. They added an amp just for one more pair of door speakers on the 4-door models?!?



New Member
the shiznat

thanks so much for the thread i have been trying to figure this out since yesterday and this is the only place i have found an answer. works great now.


Full Access Member
very helpful, I just installed a line out converter in my car using the speaker wires coming out of the amp and it was so easy once I knew where it was at.


Full Access Member
now when you install an aftermarket head unit, do you have to bypass that amp? or is it okay to leave it inline?


Full Access Member
its ok to leave it inline but make sure you get the wire harness with the blue remote wire, otherwise the reardoors wont work


Full Access Member
well im about to go bypass this amp since mine blew 1 channel. should be fun. ill post up exactly what i did as soon as i do it and know what i did exactly. lol


Full Access Member
Ok, so i just bypassed the amp, and it was quite easy. it took me about 15 minutes.
i clipped the wires, and capped the black and orange wires (power and ground). if you look at the plug you can see the wires come in pairs, these are the in and out if the speaker wires through the amp. the pairs are as follows:
light blue and blue
red and tan
brown and yellow
white and tan

now the fact that there are two tans can mess you up, but the tans are on separate sides of the amp, and if you pair the wire colors together, this wont be an issue.

then you strip the wires and connect them as follows:
Right rear:
red with light blue
tan with blue (this is the tan that pairs with the red wire)

Left rear:
white with brown
tan with yellow (this is the tan that pairs with the white wire)

now the amp is no longer used.