*it is not always 100% necessary to remove the tires, but i had to, and it is way easier to do it from the start than to realize you need to after the truck is off the ground*
- loosen the lug nuts
- jack the truck up
- put jackstands under the frame as far to the rear as you can go, and as high as you can safely go
- support the axle with the floor jack under the rear diff
- remove the tires
- unbolt the lower shock bolt
- unbolt the sway bar from the axle bracket
- lower the rear axle
- the coils will be loose, but probably not loose enough to pull out
- jack up one side of the axle forcing the other side to drop even closer to the ground
- remove the coil
- place spacer on top of the lower coil 'bucket'
- put coil back into place - this will take some force
- repeat on opposite side
- jack axle up from diff to align shocks and reinstall bolts
- reinstall swaybar bolts
- put the tires back on
- remove jackstands
- lower truck to the ground
- retighten lug nuts
i did not need a coil spring compressor, but some people need to use them. once the spacer is in place, it does take quite a bit of force to get the coil back into place....even with the axle at full droop. if you're concerned about it and you have air tools, go ahead and rent one before you get started.
i didn't need one installing my 1.5" spacers, and have not needed them before. every truck is different, you may find that you need them. i just mention them now, because sometimes it's easier just to go to autozone and rent them before you get started than when you're under your truck cursing the coil springs because you can't get them in place. they are free to rent in the end, so it really can't hurt to just pick them up....or challenge yourself and try with out it.
the Ford keys yeilded me 3" of lift in the front. the 1.5" rear spacers leveled the rear to be level with the front, which is 3" higher than stock with the Ford keys. the rear is 1.5"-2" higher than the front..stock, so only adding the 1.5' spacer made mine level with the front after it was 3" higher.
it is really a 3/1.5 lift, but with it being level, it has the effect of a 3/3 lift.
thanks! i definitely enjoy it. it drives like stock, but has the feeling of a bigger truck. it's always nice to set your grocery getter apart from the rest.
for the $150 or so that it cost (+ my personal labor and a couple hours of my time), it is a great worthwhile mod. i did add longer shocks too.
i really wanted to put a 3" body lift on top of that and run 35s instead of the 33s, but people have a hard enough time getting into this as it is, and i'm not 100% sure it would fit in my parking garage at work.
That really looks good!!! I wish i had fender flares. my body molding goes to far back tho. ill have to remove it. Im gonna do the key/spacer instead of a body lift... i would really hate to mess it up with a body lift. I want a 6in suspension lift but the only place that will install it wants 1200? cause i have AUTORIDE. One question Does the Autoride create a problem when adding spacers and keys? Does anyone know?
Ive been reading everything that comes up with the word lift in the search box. Im a vip member on a local forum and i know how much we hate repeated questions. But i havent really found it.
thanks! i enjoy it. it would look better without the plastic steps, but that goes back to the issue of it being too tall for most people. i do plan to swap on some NFab steps in place of the plastic running boards. since i have to keep a step, it might as well look good and be strong.
i definitely like the flares. it makes a big difference asthetically, i think.
the only reason a body lift would not bother me is because the current steps, and the NFab steps attach at the body vs. the frame, so the frame rails would remain hidden; not to mention i don't necessarily need the (potentially) enhanced performance of a full replacement suspension lift.
the autoride setup is its own bag of worms that i am not familiar with; however, i don't think things work out the same way as a non-autoride suspension. if you are not already a member, join www.z71tahoe-suburban.com and search over there. there is a lot of info about this over there.
i am not sure on the exact offset you would need, or could get, but i can tell you that most aftermarket wheels that you get are going to have an offset that will set your tires out some.
i know that is what i look forward to for mine.
Hi guys and gals
This is a must know when it comes to using the KYB MonoMax shocks so you don't end up buying the wrong (front) shocks like I did then have to spend another $110 plus to buy the correct ones.
2002 Suburban 4X4 with auto-ride air shock suspension "conversion" using
Ford front torsion Keys part # XL3Z5B328CA $70 each
Rear 1 1/2 coil spring spacer Ebay has them for $28 a pair
KYB MonoMax rear part # 565104 Perfect!
KYB MonoMax front shocks USE part # 565067 NOT! 565076 the 76 part # will have less than an inch compression travel when sitting level the part number 565067 is 10.83" fully compressed vs the compressed part # 76 compressed 13.78" . I made the mistake and installed the 76 so when putting the truck on the ground after installing keys and shocks I realized the weight of the vehicle had the shocks already fully compressed Not Good! I have attached a photo of the stock front next to the part # 76 so you can see it's allot longer too long so go with part # 67.
My tires are 265/70/R17 rugged terrain BF's
I will later go up to a 33" when I need tires again to fill out the wheel well better.