Mark
New Member
Hello everyone,
I'm in a little dilemma with my Tahoe right now. I purchased DJM's 3'' lowering coil springs (CS2000-R3) back in April of this year from stylintrucks.com
I installed these and had them on my Tahoe for about 5 months, until I learned that it could be harmful to use these springs without using DJM's "rear hardware kit: RK2000". I then took the 3'' coils out in September and put my OEM ones back in. I noticed I was getting this "grinding" type noise recently and that worried me even more. When I had the 3'' coils on, my Tahoe was a 1/2'' higher in the front than the back, aka "Cali lean", and it drove me nuts! I hated it.
My whole goal in the first place was to lower my Tahoe in the back, so it would level out. I originally bought the 2'' DJM rear coil springs (CS2000-R2) and installed those. I only gained a 1/2'' of drop and was extremely disappointed
After comparing the 2'' coils from DJM to the OEM ones, they were pretty much identical in height. So I returned the 2'' springs and got the 3'' ones I have now.
Well this all brings me up to today. I called DJM earlier and asked them about their RK2000 rear hardware kit as well as their "SE2000 Shock Extenders". I found this article on their website:
http://www.djmsuspension.com/applications/chevy%20apps.html
Now it shows that 2000-2006 Tahoes can be lowered 2'' in the back with their CS2000-R2 2'' coils and SE2000 shock extenders, which stylin failed to mention when I ordered
So, here's my questions:
Does anyone have just the 2'' coils out back with shock extenders on their Tahoe? If so, does it really level the Tahoe out.
Would I be better off keeping my 3'' coils, buying the RK2000 rear hardware kit, and cranking down my torsion bar up front? I kinda don't want to go this route, only because I already have rubbing issues with my front left tire. It's a 305/45/R22 Toyo Proxes S/T. The reason it rubs is because GM decided to put the 'window washer fluid reservoir bottle' protruding out into the fenderwell
Most people have 305/40 series tires, so this isn't an issue for them, but it is for me.
I have no idea how to crank my torsion bar anyways. Are there any how-to articles on here? With pictures preferable
Sorry for the long post, but I need to make a decision and thankfully found this forum to guide me.
Is that RK2000 rear hardware kit totally necessary?
Does the stock bump stop need to be cut away?
Will I need new shocks at all?
Thanks guys
I'm in a little dilemma with my Tahoe right now. I purchased DJM's 3'' lowering coil springs (CS2000-R3) back in April of this year from stylintrucks.com
I installed these and had them on my Tahoe for about 5 months, until I learned that it could be harmful to use these springs without using DJM's "rear hardware kit: RK2000". I then took the 3'' coils out in September and put my OEM ones back in. I noticed I was getting this "grinding" type noise recently and that worried me even more. When I had the 3'' coils on, my Tahoe was a 1/2'' higher in the front than the back, aka "Cali lean", and it drove me nuts! I hated it.
My whole goal in the first place was to lower my Tahoe in the back, so it would level out. I originally bought the 2'' DJM rear coil springs (CS2000-R2) and installed those. I only gained a 1/2'' of drop and was extremely disappointed
After comparing the 2'' coils from DJM to the OEM ones, they were pretty much identical in height. So I returned the 2'' springs and got the 3'' ones I have now.
Well this all brings me up to today. I called DJM earlier and asked them about their RK2000 rear hardware kit as well as their "SE2000 Shock Extenders". I found this article on their website:
http://www.djmsuspension.com/applications/chevy%20apps.html
Now it shows that 2000-2006 Tahoes can be lowered 2'' in the back with their CS2000-R2 2'' coils and SE2000 shock extenders, which stylin failed to mention when I ordered
So, here's my questions:
Does anyone have just the 2'' coils out back with shock extenders on their Tahoe? If so, does it really level the Tahoe out.
Would I be better off keeping my 3'' coils, buying the RK2000 rear hardware kit, and cranking down my torsion bar up front? I kinda don't want to go this route, only because I already have rubbing issues with my front left tire. It's a 305/45/R22 Toyo Proxes S/T. The reason it rubs is because GM decided to put the 'window washer fluid reservoir bottle' protruding out into the fenderwell
Most people have 305/40 series tires, so this isn't an issue for them, but it is for me.
I have no idea how to crank my torsion bar anyways. Are there any how-to articles on here? With pictures preferable
Sorry for the long post, but I need to make a decision and thankfully found this forum to guide me.
Is that RK2000 rear hardware kit totally necessary?
Does the stock bump stop need to be cut away?
Will I need new shocks at all?
Thanks guys