threethreeseven
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
I've been trying but not succeeding in removing my headlight bulbs for my Yukon and need some help and a simple walk through. Thanks.
How to change headlight bulbs?
- Thread starter threethreeseven
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I'm not sure if the Yukon headlight procedure is different than the Tahoe, but here is the procedure for the tahoe (this is not my procedure, I found it somewhere else) It sucks, took me about 1.5 hours the first time, I'm sure I could do it in 30min flat now:
Remove the six bolts on top of the grill.
Remove the two (7mm) screws, three push pins, and two pop style pins in the wheel well.
Pull the wheel well lining towards you and remove the two 10mm bolts that go upwards into the fender, this should release the bumper mounting bracket.
Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the headlamp in. Two were obvious on the top of the lamp, the third is behind the bumper, which is now accessible throught the wheel housing.
Gently pull the headlamp forward. Note: there are two allignment pins that insert into the sheet metal fender on the outside edge of the headlamp. They are fairly secure and will need a bit of tugging to get free.
Note 2: The headlamp is larger than the fitting it resides in, so you will have to push down on the facia, and pull a bit on the grill (this is why the first set of push pins were removed across the grill). BE CAREFUL, the headlamp is a three piece design and there are forward facing clips that are part of the lamp that can easily scratch the bumper when removing the lamp.
I recommend getting a piece of cardboard and inserting it below the lamp, forcing it down gently, to assist with the removal and provide some shielding from those forward facing clips.
When done, I assure you the lamp will go back in much easier, just make sure you have tested your connections before putting it all back in.
Remove the six bolts on top of the grill.
Remove the two (7mm) screws, three push pins, and two pop style pins in the wheel well.
Pull the wheel well lining towards you and remove the two 10mm bolts that go upwards into the fender, this should release the bumper mounting bracket.
Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the headlamp in. Two were obvious on the top of the lamp, the third is behind the bumper, which is now accessible throught the wheel housing.
Gently pull the headlamp forward. Note: there are two allignment pins that insert into the sheet metal fender on the outside edge of the headlamp. They are fairly secure and will need a bit of tugging to get free.
Note 2: The headlamp is larger than the fitting it resides in, so you will have to push down on the facia, and pull a bit on the grill (this is why the first set of push pins were removed across the grill). BE CAREFUL, the headlamp is a three piece design and there are forward facing clips that are part of the lamp that can easily scratch the bumper when removing the lamp.
I recommend getting a piece of cardboard and inserting it below the lamp, forcing it down gently, to assist with the removal and provide some shielding from those forward facing clips.
When done, I assure you the lamp will go back in much easier, just make sure you have tested your connections before putting it all back in.
Rollin Thunder
Full Access Member
i hate how complicated these new ones are. My 06 i opened the hood pulled two L pins out and then pulled the housing out, and bam change the bulb. why cant the new ones be like that???:ack:
Again, this is for the tahoe, not sure about the difference.
I have done this and removal is a little tight but it can be done.
Driver side: There are about six screws that hold the "spare battery plate" (the battery is on the other side this just looks like an add on plate for a 2nd battery). The washer bottle is also connected to this plate by a screw and I think there is a second screw that holds the bottle to the fender wall, remove that. The washer bottle should drop down a few inches at this point. The neck of the bottle can be pushed out of the way. There is a rubber wrap with some snaps directly behind the headlight. Gently remove the top snap and it will give you access to the headlight. The bulb twists out replace it and reverse the re-assembly.
Passenger side: You basically have to remove the airbox, which in reality is pretty easy. There is a clamp at the airbox for the air tube, losen the clamp and pull the box up and out. this side aslo has the rubber wrap behind the headlight with the snaps. Losen the top snap, access the bulb and re-assembly.
Working slowly the hole process probably doesnt take more than 20 mins a side for the first time. I did this from memory I may have missed a screw removal here or there, but its pretty easy.
I have done this and removal is a little tight but it can be done.
Driver side: There are about six screws that hold the "spare battery plate" (the battery is on the other side this just looks like an add on plate for a 2nd battery). The washer bottle is also connected to this plate by a screw and I think there is a second screw that holds the bottle to the fender wall, remove that. The washer bottle should drop down a few inches at this point. The neck of the bottle can be pushed out of the way. There is a rubber wrap with some snaps directly behind the headlight. Gently remove the top snap and it will give you access to the headlight. The bulb twists out replace it and reverse the re-assembly.
Passenger side: You basically have to remove the airbox, which in reality is pretty easy. There is a clamp at the airbox for the air tube, losen the clamp and pull the box up and out. this side aslo has the rubber wrap behind the headlight with the snaps. Losen the top snap, access the bulb and re-assembly.
Working slowly the hole process probably doesnt take more than 20 mins a side for the first time. I did this from memory I may have missed a screw removal here or there, but its pretty easy.
disco-hog
New Member
Were is the best place to mount the ballasts for HID lights in a 08 Tahoe ?
Thanks
Thanks
hmbtahoe
New Member
Since this issue brought up, i will share my experiance. Actually a week after i bought my 2008 Tahoe, the LED light was burned (small yellow light at the passenger side). it took me 1.5 hrs to replace it cause it was the first time for me with my hoe. Basically i did remove a total of 5 x 10mm bolts and they are the two on the top of the lamp, one is behind the bumper and other two which were very difficult to reach and i thinck those were the one holding wheel housing. then i Pulled headlamp toward me while facing the headlamp. it was very hard but i was able to insert my hand and twist the LED and change the bulb by new one.
the new bulb cost me $ 5.5 and when i report the problem to the dealer workshop they say such things doesn't covered by the car warranty and i did pay for the bulb.
the new bulb cost me $ 5.5 and when i report the problem to the dealer workshop they say such things doesn't covered by the car warranty and i did pay for the bulb.
scotto2323
Full Access Member
Wow what a bitch...Just did signal bulb driver side. Still have passenger side to go.
I Did:
Unbolted battery Tray
Two Headlight screws on top
Fenderwell
Headlight screw up through wheel, screw is 10mm and runs perpendicular to truck length.(side to side, not front to back)
Then pulled headlight out slightly, riped off the liner behind headlight and dug my hand down there.
I Did:
Unbolted battery Tray
Two Headlight screws on top
Fenderwell
Headlight screw up through wheel, screw is 10mm and runs perpendicular to truck length.(side to side, not front to back)
Then pulled headlight out slightly, riped off the liner behind headlight and dug my hand down there.
scotto2323
Full Access Member
I think that is basically what I did without pulling the houseing all the way out.
anglarry05
New Member
great...got my HIDS, went to install..."how the **** am I gonna get in there?" After days of searching my avalanche forum and here, hopefully this thread will bring me the joy. The HIDS are laughing at me now. WIsh me luck....have the thread book marked...
so how'd this go? got any tips for someone also wanting to install their HID kit? i got mine on monday and i'm getting ready to install them but after reading this post it seems like a pain just to replace these bulbs!
JD Larue
Full Access Member
What a crock of crap! Somebody at GM outa be shot for that design.
Hey I had a GM car back in the 80's a four door "whatever you callit" had to tilt the engine forward to change the back three plugs in a six cyl. I invented plenty of curse words for that design. Maybe its the same guy...:thumbsup:
anglarry05
New Member
Not as bad as it looks
Strangly, it was not as hard as it looks. Follow the instructions here, (thread #4) and you will be fine. It may not be as easy if you have big arms, as you are reaching into tight spots. Only extra tip I had to add is when you go to install the bulb into the housing, look into the lens so you can match up the notches on the bulb to the housing. You can see them clear as daylight. I played 30 minutes alone trying to match them from the engine bay. Then I thought to look from the front. Next, I did the passengerside, it took 30 seconds to plug in the bulb.
Strangly, it was not as hard as it looks. Follow the instructions here, (thread #4) and you will be fine. It may not be as easy if you have big arms, as you are reaching into tight spots. Only extra tip I had to add is when you go to install the bulb into the housing, look into the lens so you can match up the notches on the bulb to the housing. You can see them clear as daylight. I played 30 minutes alone trying to match them from the engine bay. Then I thought to look from the front. Next, I did the passengerside, it took 30 seconds to plug in the bulb.
Last edited:
anglarry05
New Member
I went with 6000K. I also emailed Tony at autoxsport.com whom I bought the kit from and he replied within a few hours which was great. He told me the pos and neg wires don't need to connect to the battery and that they can plug directly into the stock harness which makes things a lot easier. I'll try to find some time to install this week.
anglarry05
New Member
yeah, it all goes into your stock headlight harness. I have the 6000k as well, 8000k on my avalanche. Really the toughest part for me was mounting the ballast in a secure spot
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
Prettys Girls from your city for night - Verified Women
- Latest: Thaatruth103
-
