POP!! Goes the rear end..

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NOKUY

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Took my '98 Yukon out for a little spin after she sat for a few months. All of a sudden..POW!! Looks like I'll be needing a new rear end. Maybe it's time for that 14 bolt I've wanted.

Any help with where or what to look for? Thinking u-pull-it.
 

NYrr496

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My trans guy's been telling me the carriers in our rears aren't very good and usually fail after 100,000 miles. Not good news for me. My truck has 225,000. He suggested Eaton.
 

NOKUY

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Fingers crossed for ya'. But I had a '97 Tahoe that went to 235K before a u-joint cracked the tranny case. Never once did I have an issue with the rear end.

Really on a budget here. Wife already hates my toy. Any year make and model for GM trucks I should be looking for in the u-pull-it lot that will be an upgrade?
 

mross

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you guys are frightening me,my hoe has 215000 miles and near been touched
 

bai78

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If you are looking for a direct swap, search the 14 bolt SF (semi-floater). It is a 6 lug 3/4 ton axle which will bolt up to your Yukon. You will have to get different u-joints but they are available at auto parts stores. IIRC you may have to tweak the brake lines...idk.

Also, I know of such a rear axle for sale with 3.73 gears & new drums. He is asking $400 obo for it. He is in ND & prefers not to ship but is willing to do so.

Let me know if you are interested so I can pass along the info.
 

bai78

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In my haste I forgot to check if you have 2wd or 4wd. This 14 bolt is for a 4wd.
 

NOKUY

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It's a 4x4. To make it even more upsetting is that it had been upgraded to a detroit locker with 456 gears. I was not even aware of that having just purchased the vehicle last summer. Big $$ to fix it back the way it was. Seems the fluid slowly leaked out while it sat. :mad:

Not sure what I'll do now. Maybe stick 456 gear back in and just go with a stock diff. Those lockers are so expensive.
 

bai78

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OUCH! I know exactly what you mean as I had recently regeared my Tahoe from stock 3.42 with G80 to 4.56 AAM (OEM) with an Eaton/Detroit True Trac. I got my gears, master install kits, & posi from Ron's Machining Service.

http://www.ronsmachiningservice.net

He was extremely helpful & once we figured out the right package, it was shipped to my door within a couple of days via UPS.

Other popular sites would be Randy's Ring & Pinion, Complete Offroad, as well as Automotive Parts Unlimited LLC. Eric Beauchea assisted me at APU. (800-270-5224 or [email protected])

http://www.ringpinion.com
http://www.completeoffroad.com
http://www.automotivepartsunlimited.com

Lastly, I also invested in a Mag-Hytec cover for both the differential & 4L60E tranny.

http://mag-hytec.com

Hopefully, this helps out & gets you back on the road/trails soon.
 

king-KON

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if i have the stock 3.42 can i turn 33's without being scared? i migth have the 3.73 i have to check in the glovebox for the code but i was told the 3.42 and 33's could be a problem. i might be buyin all new gears =(
 

NOKUY

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Running 38.5s so pretty much gotta go with the 456 or she doesn't move out too well.
 

bai78

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King; you can run 33's with stock 3.42 or 3.73. I did on mine & she ran pretty well especially considering it was my daily driver. It was a little sluggish off the line but cruising & highway passing was fine. My mpg's were 14-15 city & 15-17 highway.

The main question is how will this vehicle be used? DD, weekend toy, towing, & what future mods do you have in mind? Also, know that it will be rough on your front end parts. (pitman, idler arms, CV joints)

My 4.56 choice was due to the 33's, and soon 35's once these go, 6" lift, & soon to be light towing of motorcycles. In retrospect I probably would have compromised a bit & chosen 4.10 if I were going to just stay with 33's.
 

king-KON

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its a daily driver, im rebulding the whole front end its all worn from lowing, new ball joints, idler arm,pitman arm, tie rod ends everything, i do light towing of my quads but nothing crazy. im just worried im gonna be suckin fuel and have no power. and replacing gears means i have to buy two sets. lemme know thanks

-matt
 

bai78

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Did you check and see what gears you have now?

Below is a quick chart for reference:

3.42's: 1600 rpm @ 65 mph
3.73's: 1750 rpm @ 65 mph
4.11's: 1900 rpm @ 65 mph

Keep in mind that you may end up losing .5 - 1 mpg due to the gear swap but would provide the torque to haul the quads, & maintain speed/power/acceleration, imo. If you went lower in gears you would be suckin more gas due to the 500 or rpm difference.
 

inthechateau

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Go to government liquidators.com, they sell a lot of the old CUCV trucks(pick ups) and they have the 456 lockers in themand all 14 bolt.
 

king-KON

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i do have the optional 3:73 i checked the code in my glove box. that eases my worries a litle bit. now i have to order my chip from harris performance and put that body lift on. anybody have any tips on installing a body lift? i needed to keep the fram the same hight for the plow and i just wanted some more tire clearence before someone asks why i didnt go with a suspension lift. i had another thread about installling a bodylift with no hits at all or replys. any advice?????? thanks

-matt
 

bai78

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King, I posted a quick reply on that thread for the body lift. Important rule for forums is to keep on topic. This way we don't have to jump around & search like crazy.
 

tahoeman21

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Hey bai78, I used to have a 4dr 99 tahoe with 3.73, 2wd. My tires were 275/65 15. At 80mph, i used to run @ 2500RPM. Was this normal? I plan to get another tahoe sometime in the future.
 

bai78

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Tahoeman21, that would be correct as it should be around 2400 - 2500 rpm's at 80mph with that gear ratio & tire setup.
 
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