POS brakes

[slingblade]

we all know that the brakes on the OBS are crap, but I really need to improve them in some way. Although I am not a wrench-head by trade I am mechanically inclined.I do not want to mow grass by lowering, or drive my hoe on a road courseI. have mild custom mods. I just want to have some confidence in my stopping. I have new front pads, and new shoes. What else can be done to improve them. My pedal travel is excessive and it is not firm. I am open to upgrading suggestions as long as I don't have to mortage the house or improving but not unless I get a noticeable seat of the pants difference. Oh yeah I have OEM wheels and Michelins. Not a custom ride just a good all around grocery getter. She has about 150K on her. Thanks to all who offer to help out.

 

[Kontohoe]

I had the same problem on my '98 Yukon and on my '99 Tahoe. Took it to my mechanic, put on new shoes and pads (semi-metallic) and had him drain and put in new brake fluid and then bled them. Cost me about $500 (time consuming) but made a HUGE difference. He also adjusted the rear brakes a "few clicks" as too actually use the rear brakes as these beasts mainly use the front brakes to stop. He wanted to know if I wanted to put on ceramic pads but I didn't know enough about them at the time and need to do some research on them or ask on this forum. You wouldn't happen to know anything about ceramics, would you?

 

[blk87brd]

I had a 99 Tahoe, drove it for around 280k miles. I found brakes to be excellent. Brakes would get worse over the course of the year. Fixing was easy. Spring and fall inspect pads and shoes, adjust rear brakes to assit fronts because they don't self adjust worth a damn. Changed out brake fluid twice in those miles. Again easy, if you purchase a vacum pump for about $75 I now have a 99 Yukon and looking at the service records that came with it, it appears to be the same as the tahoe. I've only put a couple of thousand on it so don't know for sure. My guess is if you put new rotors, drums, shoes and pads on and properly adjust the rears you will never say they are crap again. A note: I used GM rotors, was told that offshores were standing up just as well, so used them and they were excellent. I've used ceramic and liked them. Didn't notice they last longer but felt they were more positive.

 

[loulblades]

I put an SSBC kit on the front (multi-cylinder calipers, slotted rotors, their pads), replaced booster, replaced master cylinder, replaced most of the brake lines and although I saw a significant improvement, I am still not happy. Still too much pedal travel.

I will be putting SSBC disc brakes on the rear along with their "Firm Feel" master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve. Of course this means bye-bye to the BCM and Anti-Lock brakes (which don't work anyway due to a bad front wheel sensor).

This is a summer project so I won't be able to say how it goes for awhile. Even if I wasn't putting disc brakes on the back I would put in the new master cylinder with hopes it would be better than the new stock one I put in.

I thought of the possibility of replacing some brake components with parts from a 3/4 ton Suburban but that one is still in my head.

 

[JP422]

I know this is an older post... but If you want firm pedal feel, stainless steel braided brake lines and new fluid (preferably synthetic DOT4 for higher temp capability) is a good way to start.

As for the semi-metalic vs ceramic pads... generally, ceramic will shed less brake dust.. however semi-metallic will offer more stopping power. Both last pretty long. I'd stay away from cheap "lifetime" pads... they suck in stopping power, and overheat easy.

Does anyone know if a master cylinder (4 wheel disk brake) from a NBS Yukon or tahoe will fit the OBS brake boosters?