Recent content by loulblades

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I don't know if you got this worked out. I found my wiring diagram which was faxed to me and I can barely read it so trying to scan and forward would be futile. What I can tell you is this: The 2 pin connector that came on the new wiring...

I do have a copy of the wiring diagram for the new harness at home so I will look for it tonight. So I will tell you what I can for now. The long brown wire connects to the hot side of the transfer case switch. The 2 pin connector, if I am recalling correctly, connects to the proximity...

If you want to play...you must pay. Generally the scratches from brush will rub out pretty easily.

There would be extra wear and tear if the diff is engaged all the time. Also a decrease in gas mileage. TSB 76-43-01A is what I referred to for updating to the motor actuator. I see that 97s also had thermal actuators. I also see Autozone lists both the thermal and motor actuator...

Then it is the thermal type. As I said, they are prone to failure and there is a TSB to convert to the more reliable motor type actuator. I don't have the number in front of me but there is a small amount of wiring to do. Remove old connector. The new connector has a wire for 12 V...

Look above the actuator on the diff to see if there is a 2 pin connector. This is what is used on the thermal actuator type to determine if the diff is actually engaged or not. I think that since your truck is a 97 it should have the motor type actuator. I believe that 96 was the last year...

This is not what I was referring to. The Posi-Lok is used to get rid of the actuator and manually engage the front diff. The motor type actuator requires 12 volts all the time (when ignition is on). 12 volts is applied to cause the actuator to engage and the other pin on the connector is...

Since you said the light quit blinking when you manually engaged the front diff that let's you know that the fedback to the TCCM is good. Also since you said there was another connecter on the diff, I am figuring this is the thermal solenoid type. There is a TSB to convert from the thermal...

I just looked at the TSB closer and I see it is for an autotrac system. I could see where you would want to keep parts moving in that situation, I would have to do more research to see if this applies to a non auto system.

Thanks for that info. I have played with the 4wd on my truck for some time and never observed this. I have manually put the transaxle in a neutral position for the rear driveshaft (when my TCCM went bad I used a switch to control the encoder motor). I guess I was under the assumption that...

I agree with the bowhunter that the front driveshaft could turn even though the transfer case and differential are not mechanically engaged (i.e. in 2wd). However they are "fluid" (oil in the case and diff) engaged and due to losses in the system (physics involved in turning the driveshaft for...

Yes the front drive shaft may move but not in the same way (same speed) that a connected (mechanically) system would.

The transfer case encoder motor should disengage power transfer to the front (via the driveshaft) and the actuator in the front differential should disengage power to the wheels and, in turn, feedback from the wheels. The front drive shaft shouldn't be turning in 2hi unless the actuator or...

I have some other stuff too, like the original wheels and tires, cheap. Actually those gloves may end up in the trash can one day because I don't use that storage compartment for the jack anymore. White Oak is not far from me.

Welcome for the pic. I understand the original equipment stuff. I have a 66 Mustang convertible. Although these are from a 96 and yours is a 95, if you are interested in the gloves you can send me a prepaid envelope/box and they're yours (PM me for the address). I have a tire changing kit...