Recent content by paintcarendetailing

Eggs are horrible for paint, not only does the shell cut through the paint like little razors and cause hairline cracks, the egg itself will etch into the paint. Do you have any pictures of the damage? If it's etched, you might be able to remove it by polishing it with an abrasive...

It says car polish but it sounds more like a all in one sealant with fillers. The reason for the haze could be that you applied it too think and the excess oils and fillers are causing the hazing. Does the "haze" shift when you wipe it? If so then a wash will remove the excess sealant...

LOL Thanks guys!! It's held up pretty well over the past 6 1/2 years. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it other then wash it with ONR over the past 4 months because I tweaked my back doing Sanshou training. There was very little washing/drying induced marring on the finish...

^^^^What he said^^^^

I'll bump your tread, Trend...I've been busy lately and haven't had time to post on the boards but I was able to give the Yukon some TLC last week - - Wash - Spot clay - hood, bumper, lower panels, rear - paint cleanser - Pinnacle paint cleanser - Souveran paste - Poorboy's wheel...

The insert yes....insert + shell can be done but it's more then just a swap. I found an old post I posted with everything (I think) that is needed: � 15046662 - Filler between grill and bumper - LH � 15046666 - Filler between grill and bumper - RH � 15150999 - Parking lamp - LH �...

No problem, I'm glad it helped. Claying after washing before drying saves some time by being able to go over the whole car without having to spray, clay, wipe clean each section. You can do this method and substitute the clay lube instead of car soap....just rinse and dry after. The only...

All abrasive polishes need to be worked in and broken down for them to remove marring and leave a gloss finish. If not worked in properly, under direct light, the polish will leave the paint hazy. Here is a side by side example of not working a polish in correctly or breaking it down...

Sounds like a good start...like I tell everyone when they first start out - Be sure to do a test spot to get comfortable with the machine and polish. Also make sure to break down the polish completely (another reason for the test spot), take your time and check your work as you go under direct...

Ask the body shop how long before you can wax it...typically it's about 30-60 days. The best thing and the most important thing is proper washing and drying with good quality products and towels. My website has a section on proper washing/drying that can help reduce marring it also has...

Exactly what tast101 & Trend Setta plus compressed air... First - use the flooding method (works best on well maintained paint) to remove the majority of the water. Second- remove the remaining water off the paint with a Waffel Weave towel. Use either the blotting method or wiping...

Good post:thumbsup: ...I forgot about that chart!

I've used the stiff brush for years, it works great and is great for getting into seams. I just started using the horse hair brush, it works great on seats that don't need as deep of cleaning. If I had to choose, I'd get the stiff bristled brush. As far as pads...the pad helps determine the...

If you are just looking to remove wax I'd save your money and either remove it by hand or just get a orbital from a place like pepboys. Now if you are looking to remove imperfections/swirls(spiderwebbing) then you'll need to step it up to at least a Porter Cable 7424. Meguiars, Porter...

Exactly what Tast101 said...there is no forced rotation with the Porter Cable 7424 so it doesn't generate the heat like a rotary does. They are very easy to use, but one of the few problems that can arise when polishing with a PC is not breaking down the polish completely and leaving a hazy...