Recent content by scrnchr

Thanks for the reply. Had to work around all the rain we've been having. You were right about the time to sleep mode--turned out to be less than 10 minutes once I found the real problem. I read through this thread and sort of combined it with your advice. I got a battery disconnect...

Thanks for the reply. It's been cold & rainy here so I haven't gotten as much done outside as I would like. The Tahoe was starting for more than a week as long as I used it each day. Two days ago, I drove it during the day, parked it at 4 pm, and the battery was dead at 9 pm. I swapped in the...

Hello Mayhem, There are no aftermarket accessories at all. Nothing is plugged into the front or rear cig lighter ports.

Pretty difficult to do, but I think we might have gotten a valid reading. I had the negative cable tied to the battery negative through a jumper cable. This way I was able to touch the ammeter to insert it into the circuit, then remove the jumper cable from the battery, so that I didn't have...

Went out to set up for the 5 hour test. After just driving the truck, I had to disconnect the negative battery cable to set up the test. With all the fuses back in, I'm seeing 1.5 Amp draw (at the beginning of the 5 hour test), whereas the other day I saw 3.6 Amp. I have no idea why it's...

Yes, I wrote, "I don't have the automatic dual zone HVAC controls", but I think I was confused... I have the dual slides for heat--I thought by "automatic" they meant the type where you set a specific temperature, like 70 degF (if Tahoes even come with that). So you're saying the 2003 BCM...

Thanks for the reply. I've found a couple of things that go into further detail. Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-007B, which includes my 2004 Tahoe (though I don't have the automatic dual zone HVAC controls), says it can up to 4-1/4 hours for some systems to go into sleep mode, and to wait at least 5...

2004 Tahoe LS 4WD Hello, Tahoe sat outside in the rain for a couple of nights and the battery was stone dead. Nothing was left on. I swapped out the 0.00V stone dead battery for a charged battery. I left one cable off and used a multimeter set to 10 Amps DC to close the circuit as...

The junkyard MAF sensor seems to have fixed the P0101; no more codes. Had to replace the transfer case encoder motor to get the 4WD shifting to work again. Not the easiest job in the world.

I took my dash 4WD switch apart, but it was in good shape. I've read that by 2004 the switches weren't usually the problem. Ended up replacing the transfer case encoder motor. Kind of a pain to do. It fixed the problem, though.

OK, got it fixed. I appreciate all your advice, s--k. I gave up on the driveshaft. Moved the truck back and forth a little on the ramps until things were lined up enough to get that one bolt out. The old encoder motor looked like it was mounted crooked. Two of the bolt ears on the casting...

I think you're probably right, so I picked up a used transfer case motor. I didn't feel like messing with the encoder ring. But now I can't get the old one out. The guy in the video fails to mention that the front driveshaft has to be turned just right to have clearance to pull the one bolt...

Does anyone have a similar 4WD Diagnostics guide for a 2004 Tahoe? My 2004 Tahoe has the Auto setting, so the posted diagnostics apparently don't apply. It looks to me like my data link connector doesn't have a pin in slot 13--just the plastic housing.

I'm fighting this same problem. How do I know if it's the 4WD selector switch or the transfer case motor encoder ring? Here are my details: I have a 2004 Tahoe LS. Two years ago, the 4WD switch buttons started acting up. It would light up red, like in neutral, then sometimes not go...

The new vent solenoid seems to have worked. No more EVAP codes and the check engine light is off. The EVAP still reads NOT READY but I don't care right now, it passed emissions. I replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor with one from a junkyard for 40 bucks and the P0101 cleared immediately. Now...