Hello,
I have an 03 Tahoe, and wen on a scenic drive last week, on a dirt road. They had recently "graded" the road which made the road like a washboard. I've driven this road many times.
About a mile in, I get a warning about reduced engine power, then something about the brakes, and then it died completely. Turning the key makes the dash and lights go dark. Before trying to jump the vehicle, I noticed that the side posts on the battery were awfully loose.
Tightened those up and tried to jump the car, no luck - no turning over, no clicks. Then the battery just drained because weird things started happening like the cd changer just kept changing and the daytime lights remained on whether the key was on or not. When in the on position, it appears that all gauges work fine, except for the fuel gauge shows empty (it's not) and the oil pressure gauge won't budge. When trying to start, all goes black until you release, then the dash lights come back on.
The security and seatbelt lights stayed on.
Had to be towed 40 miles home.
The next day, I took the battery to AZ to be tested and it came back fine.
Had someone come out and check, and they thought the ignition switch was faulty, as it was getting 12v in but only 5v out. Tried changing that out and no luck. Same exact issue, only the key would not turn at all, and the key would not come out of the ignition - had to re-remove it to remove the key.
Then realized that while the pcm had power, it was unable to communicate with the diagnostic tool the mechanic had.
This has been a huge failure, and I was hoping that someone could chime in with any suggestions before I take some small town mechanic's word for it.
I was told if I need a new pcm, it could cost over 1.5k. Is this accurate?
Thanks to anyone who reads this.
I have an 03 Tahoe, and wen on a scenic drive last week, on a dirt road. They had recently "graded" the road which made the road like a washboard. I've driven this road many times.
About a mile in, I get a warning about reduced engine power, then something about the brakes, and then it died completely. Turning the key makes the dash and lights go dark. Before trying to jump the vehicle, I noticed that the side posts on the battery were awfully loose.
Tightened those up and tried to jump the car, no luck - no turning over, no clicks. Then the battery just drained because weird things started happening like the cd changer just kept changing and the daytime lights remained on whether the key was on or not. When in the on position, it appears that all gauges work fine, except for the fuel gauge shows empty (it's not) and the oil pressure gauge won't budge. When trying to start, all goes black until you release, then the dash lights come back on.
The security and seatbelt lights stayed on.
Had to be towed 40 miles home.
The next day, I took the battery to AZ to be tested and it came back fine.
Had someone come out and check, and they thought the ignition switch was faulty, as it was getting 12v in but only 5v out. Tried changing that out and no luck. Same exact issue, only the key would not turn at all, and the key would not come out of the ignition - had to re-remove it to remove the key.
Then realized that while the pcm had power, it was unable to communicate with the diagnostic tool the mechanic had.
This has been a huge failure, and I was hoping that someone could chime in with any suggestions before I take some small town mechanic's word for it.
I was told if I need a new pcm, it could cost over 1.5k. Is this accurate?
Thanks to anyone who reads this.
