1995 2-door tahoe vibration and binding noise and feel issue

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nascarjay

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I had this truck for about 5+ years and it always felt like something was binding or grinding like, and had a slight vibration at 70+ but smooth on 55 and 65 but was not bad and figured it must just be my old tires. but last week it got real bad, and so I looked at real good, and notice that the front u-joint of the rear drive shaft was cracked and so Im like happy, that must be the problem, so I went and had my rear drive shaft rebuilt, with new yoke on rear, and new u-joints, during this time I drove on the front drive shaft as I had before when the rear end went out, but this time it was not good, after about 250 miles the shaking and binding and grinding noise got real bad, and I was babying it the whole time, it got to the point where it would barely move, and I step on the gas to get going and it would just click click click and not hardly move, I figured I must of stripped the front spline of the t*case to the front drive shaft but not sure. I got the new rear drive shaft put and now just driving in 2 wheel drive, and I still get the vibration at 70+ and smooth at lower speeds, and it sounds like the front drive shaft is catching a hanging up on the spline or slip yoke. I had 4 different garages look at it and half said its the front end, and half said its the t-case. I am a student and trying to get of disability and get my life back going, and have very little money to fix the wrong things. This is very nice Tahoe, I restored it 2 years ago and took me two years and about 8k but she is rust free, and painted a 2005 jeep color, that deep dark green with a bit of gold in it. and I just could use some good advice. I also own a 1986 full size GMC blazer that I have had since 1987 and now is my mud truck, but I floated the valves and therefore my Tahoe is my only truck at this time, like I said I am broke. I saw that someone said that the u-joints need to be lined up a certain way like on my 86 but I thought that was only when you have a dual u-joint yoke set up, not the slide in style, but the front drive shaft I think it u-bolts on both sides with a slip yoke. I don't know what went wrong, I drove it easy, and had drove it before on the only the front drive shaft and nothing happen, I don't understand why I still have the same vibration when the entire drive line is new in the rear, and not using the front drive shaft. I replace the actuator last year, thinking that was the hanging up noise and feel I was getting but nope, changed nothing, but back then the vibration was so slight I could live with it. I have been running the same tires on it since I restored it as I don't usually drive that much, but right now I have to make 4 trips a week to Big Rapids about 45 miles one way each week and the freeway drive sucks. HELP HELP HELP :sad72:
 

nascarjay

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oH, I am thinking about just taking off the front driveshaft and having that rebuilt as well, but if the t-case is bad, or the front cv joints went out, I will need every dime I got to rebuild the t-case, and I don't know when I can even do that, as I need my truck every day for school. If I knew what the problem is I know how to take out a t-case and replace it, but again I rather have it rebuilt, as its a 421c and a 460le tranny and like to keep them together as their are some many various 421c t-cases models. and again I need my truck every day. can you drive without having front drive shaft is these types of t-cases. after all I think I burnt it up driving on the just the front drive shaft without having a rear drive shaft in it. I miss my 86, so much more simpler, and can drive that on one wheel and have if I needed to.
 

lesterl

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Bet you messed up something in the Tcase or transmission....
 

nascarjay

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T-case issues

Well I took it to a transmission shop and the guy drove my Tahoe and looked at it, then suggested to rebalance the tires and rotate them and have them forced road balanced, and thought that my outer snap ring may be broken and only had to take off the extending housing off held on with 4 bolts and it should be broken, but after doing this I did not find that the snap ring was not broken, and was a bear to get off, and I broke my snap ring pliers trying to install the new one. I am not sure but maybe he was talking about the synchronized insert spring, as the snap ring that I bought from him looks more like that, then the outer snap ring, but he said I could do this while the t-case was still installed, and I don't think I can get to that synchronized insert spring while the t-case is still on the truck? After I removed the outer snap ring and twisted the front drive shaft I could hear the chain rubbing on the case, and even after installing the outer shaft bearing and turning the front drive shaft I still hear the chain rub against the case. So maybe the chain is stretched, how tight is the chain suppose to be?
I still don't understand why the truck wont move with just the front drive shaft and just clicks like a striped gear noise, but will move with rear drive shaft, but still vibrates at 60+ and still sounds like something is binding, and could be the loose chain that is making it sound like that, as it does it all speeds.
Does anyone have any advise other than just saying I think you have a bad t-case or trany. Trans shifts fine, and after I get a new pair of snap ring pliers and get that snap ring on and put rear drive shaft back on I am off to get tires road forced balanced, and rotated, but I know this wont solve the binding and slipping of the front drive shaft, or the noise, but maybe I will get lucky on the vibration.

Oh yeah I also drop half of my exhaust yesterday, I have a single exhaust to the muffle that y out into two pipes, and lost the passenger side one, weld broke off from muffler, of course I pick it up and pipe looks pretty good, but I know the muffler is bad, as it raddles so will be replacing that, if I go with straight dual exhaust, do I have to have two cat's,? Or can I just get rid of the cat? will that affect my sensors? and is there a way to bypass the cat and still use sensors, or remove the sensor? and will the truck run right without that sensor?

I am so f ed I have to have truck rolling by Monday night as I have class on Tuesday morning. So any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 
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