Tire and torsion key question

[ToddEdge]

I'm brand new to this site. I just picked up a '02 Z71 yesterday and love it so far. The previous owner installed exhaust and appears to have messed with the torsion bars. I put it on a lift prior to buying to make sure there was no damage and noticed the driver side torsion key is maxed out and the passenger side key is about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way up. Does this sound normal? I'm wondering if the driver cranked the driverside up to compensate for a heavy driver or something?

Regardless, I want to purchase keys to raise the front up about 2" total. Can someone recommend the keys I need along with a link or part number?

What are the largest tires I can run with the Tahoe as it sits now(stock keys maxed out) and what size tires can I run with the new keys(2" lift)?

The tahoe currently has 275-70-17 on it right now and they have maybe 10,000 miles of life left.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Regards,
Todd

 

[iamsmithers]

hey Todd. I actually have the same problem in mine with the drivers side key being cranked all the way up. This started after I had new keys put in to drop the Yuk. I'm thinking they may have indexed the key wrong and put it in a notch up, but I'm not sure. I'm going to be taking them out to see what's going on so if there hasnt been any answer to your question by then I'll let you know. Oh, the DJM folks said they should be about the same in my case when I asked them if thats any help to you.

 

[Big Tap]

I'm not well versed in this at all, as I'm the guy who usually lowers instead of lifting my rides, but I think you can use some kind of a stock Ford torsion key to get the lift in the front that you're wanting. Try a search for this and you might turn up something.

Try this thread. Seems to have some good info: http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=8189&highlight=ford+keys

 

[Yuke2K]

Todd, I'm the one who started the thread that was posted above. You can buy aftermarket keys, or get stock Ford F-150 torsion keys which will give you about 2" of lift. The part number for the Ford keys is referenced in that thread above, on page 1 about halfway down IIRC. Make sure you get an alignment when you're done, and if you really want to do it right, get rear coil spacers and longer shocks. More loot, but worth it if you ever go offroad.

The stock shocks WILL max out if you offroad your rig with aftermarket keys installed - they aren't long enough. Not a huge deal if you don't do it often, but you'll lose alot of articulation and will probably mess up the shocks after a while. If you're mostly a highway driver, then it's not a priority.

 

[ToddEdge]

Thanks for the responses.

So, the aftermarket 2"-3" keys will definitely provide more lift than the factory keys maxed out?? One of mine is maxed out and the other side is up about 60-70% and the front fender sits 2" lower than the rear(rear from ground to wheel well measures 38", front from the ground to the wheel well measures 36").

What size tires are people running that have their lifted and leveled?

Thanks again,
Todd

 

[Yuke2K]

You can get alot of lift out of just cranking the torsion bars (I've heard people getting as much as 4", but I'm not sure if I believe anything more than 3"...), but the problem that arises from doing that is when you max out the stock torsion keys, you're getting dangerously close to bad suspension geometry. If you overdo it with the stockers, you could end up snapping an axle shaft or tearing up your CV joints.

Ford keys/aftermarket keys actually index the torsion bars differently, so you're getting more lift without cranking the absolute snot out of the bolts. You still have to be careful, but you can get a pretty solid 3" out of your front suspension if you do it right. My general rule of thumb, based on my own personal research, is as follows:

- If you want to get an extra inch out of your stock suspension, crank the bolts, no alignment necessary.

- If you want to go 2"-3", get aftermarket keys, longer shocks and rear coil spacers, and get an alignment. Cheapest way to lift a GMT800 truck, to my knowledge. You could also get a body lift but the frame rails will really show unless you have running boards.

- Higher than that, plunk down the cash for a full suspension lift. Body lifts over 3" look kinda goofy on these trucks IMO.

Now, thats MY rule of thumb, and I'm not a suspension expert. Your mileage can and probably will vary, so caveat emptor.

As far as tires go, 2001Yuke was running 33s with just torsion keys, but was having rubbing issues in the rear without spacers. Adding 1.5" spacers would probably solve that problem - I'm not sure if he ever got it worked out or not. Maybe he'll chime in. A sure safe bet would be 285 75 16s. If you have 17" wheels, I think you can run 285 70 17s but I'm not positive.

 

[FishinCricket]

Sorry for resurrecting an ancient thread, but I have a question:

I just got my Yukon and from what I understand (i hope i am translating this correctly as i am a layman) the rear has been "lifted" by adding bilstein shocks and a few Hotchkiss components like a Hotchkiss sway bar and some other various parts.. The front has had Bilstien shocks added and has had the torsion bars cranked ALL THE WAY.

I am noting a different method, as described briefly here and elsewhere on this forum, of using torsion keys? What I am curious about is if there is a way to add a different torsion key like a readylift or something and retain the height I have while reducing some of the tension of the torsion bars by cranking them back down? I love the tires and wheels I have and the ride height, just not really enjoying the ride and am worried about damaging components...

And if I can do this will I be able to slide by without an alignment or am I still messing with the angles too much?

 

[FishinCricket]

Anyone?