Towing Help plus

[greenmtnman]

Hello
I just got a 02 Tahoe LT V8 5.3l We got this to tow a camper since my 01 ford ex. sport tract v6 wasn't doing it.
I know the air ride is missing. Not sure about the air lines. I wondering is it worth replacing or go with something different?

The hoe has 130k and I wanted to have the my mechanic change the oil to mobile 1. And to change the oil and filter in the transmission , his reply was he wont take any responsibility since the mileage is 130k and we have no idea what work has been done on it. ANY ideas about this?

I also want to do the rear end with synthetic oil any other ideas of what to change over oil's I should do?

having the brakes done rotor and pad's on all 4 wheels. Any suggestions since I will be towing following the sun? Also brake lines upgrade instead of just replacing.


thanks for your help

 

[Vista Cruiser 69]

Hi,
couple of people still think there was an issue in filling a fully synthetic into a car with high mileage. Some think if always serviced with minerals or hydrocracked there wer deposits all around the full synthetic will solve, block the system and ruin the engine. Some say high mileage engines at all should not have a full synth oil. Nobody really knows were all that half knowledge comes from and if yiou ask you get vague blabla.
Trust me there is no reason why your Vortec should not enjoy latest technology engine oil. I am working as a service engineer since 20 yeras now for a well known lubes brand which is not XOM...! I've been transitioning heaps of engines even with unclear history to FS oils as they are simply superior. They do not solve deposits better than an mineral, it is the addpack doing the solving not the base oil. And the addpack does not necessarily differ between different base oiled products!. Watch out for the reasonable viscosity grade. Some of this discussion fuss is simply relates to the fact that people who do not understand the SAE viscosity tabel think FS oils are thin per definition. Suggest you use the 0W-40 version of that "competitor product" which provides superior cold start performance and the oil pressure and fil thickness at hot of any XW40- product. Same thing with rear axle. No need to stick to minor mineral stuff. A proper FS 75W-90 API GL5 (make sure GL5 - not GL4 which is for man-trans) will be great. No if you think , according to the viscosity-numbers a 75W-90 might be twice as thick as a 0W-40 - forget it! Engine and gear oils are rated differently in the SAE system
An SAE 75W-90 will match a 5W-40 engine oill, a 75W-140 relates to 10W-60 etc. You may choose as well a 75W-140, which however is not that thicker at hot as you may think. Always use API GL 5 in axles. If you have a limited slip differential (somehing like 25% or 40% rate) then yopu have to use either a an LS additive (GM offers) or use a "ready mix" axle oil that is LS suitable already. Don't overdose LS additive, it competes with the anti wear additives at surfaces and let's say does not support polymer seals... If you do not know if you have an LS differential at rear, lift the axle and try to rotate rear wheels in different direction. If you can easily, then no LS. If you have an LS diff but use standard oil you will very quickly notice the shudder when parking or driving small circles. This shudder does harm to your axle..

 

[thzpcs]

As long as it's the same viscosity, there really shouldn't be an issue switching to a new oil, synthetic or non-synthetic.