Recent content by IMI4tth3w

never heard of this. first off what year is your tahoe? i know the nbs (00-06) tahoes have welded on torsion bar mounts/bushings. they aren't riveted on like the ones on the silverados. if its welded correctly you shouldn't be having any problems like that. i've tried replacing mine but do not...

probably the one you don't make 2 threads about

there are coolant lines going all the way to the rear for the rear heater core for your rear heat. which is why there was coolant there. if you look closely there are 2 sets of lines. one feed/return for the freon and engine coolant. and i believe it is common in the salt areas

factory wheels will be best for stuffing a bigger tire. but you will have to give up bad tread wear and a less comfortable ride. and the tires will look really tucked in. the tire size you can fit will depend on the wheel you go with. the more narrow the wheel and the more positive the offset...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php read this. your driving style can make the biggest improvement in mpgs over anything else. 99% of the mods you can do to save money would be better off spent as fuel in the tank. if your not doing it to save money on gas...

well i suppose i might update this as well. my post a while back is nothing near what it is now. i would update the other one but wont let me edit. must be too old. 2000 2wd Tahoe storm gray metallic with 182k Performance: Spectre CAI Flowmaster turndowns Blackbear Performance 93 oct tune...

that or your oil pump is going out? i'd take it by a shop. getting that checked out is probably a lot cheaper than blowing your engine.

i'm guessing your talking about a NNBS? its gonna ride like dog ****. you'll probably be sitting on the uca bump stops. no thanks. get a real lift kit.

i mounted a 305 70 16 on my spare wheel as a spare. donno on how well it would wear but it seems just fine.

i've got the same thing. its pretty bad on mine tho. looks like it could be either the rear main seal or oil pan gasket. oil pan gasket probably isn't too bad to change and wouldn't be too hard. not sure what the best brand is but i'm sure you could search and find out. good luck man. oh and...

i've got the same thing. its pretty bad on mine tho. looks like it could be either the rear main seal or oil pan gasket. oil pan gasket probably isn't too bad to change and wouldn't be too hard. not sure what the best brand is but i'm sure you could search and find out. good luck man. oh and...

haha okay one final explanation. any sort of lift on a truck in any way will cause stress on many different things. engine, transmission, joints, its just part of lifting a truck. as far as bad cv angles go, that only applies to 4wd. and i mean you have to really crank the sh.t out of your...

You really proved me wrong. Okay so you can fit certain types of 33s with keys and spacers but the majortiy are going to rub so much it's not even worth the horrible cv angles and ball joints worn to sh.t. If you want to run a 33" tire I recomend a body lift. Keys and spacers wouldn't hurt...

ford keys. 1.5" spacers. some new shocks if you want. thats about all there is as far as a leveling kit for tahoes. if you want 33's put a body lift unless you wanna trim half your wheel well. you WILL rub like a BITCH if you just do keys and spacers on 33's and you might as well not even have...

its just a strut. if it works then theres not much else to it as far as getting it powered, it would require a lot more than you think. for one the nnbs power liftgates would be near impossible to get to work. plus you have to figure out how your going to get it to power open the handle to lift...