Changing the transmission fluid

[megapea]

I have an 05 Tahoe LS 4X4 with the 5.3 V8. I am going to change the tranny fluid and filter. Unbolting the pan, draining the fluid, and changing the filter should be pretty standard, but how can I get the rest of the fluid out of the converter, and lines? I've heard that you need to crack a fluid line and start the engine and let it pump out. Is this the "best" method, or do you know of something that works better? I want to replace the fluid with synthetic, so I would like to get most of the old fluid out. Any advice, or methods would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[withac]

Don't know about getting all the fluid out but here is some info on going ahead without getting it out. I had an email conversation with an RP rep a year or so ago regarding my Dodge Ram (yeah, I know, D word). Here is what he said. The first paragraph is my question the second and third his answer.


If I just do a pan drop then I'll be mixing the RP with what's left in the tranny and from the numbers you indicated, the RP will be diluted/mixed with what's still in there. Is that bad/do you see any benefits from that or does RP recommend a flush when switching to ensure the full benefits?


The pan drop is fine, our will over power what ever oil it mixes with as our film strength is 400 times stronger. With the mix we also recommend doing another pan drop at 5,000 miles to get a high concentrate of our oil in the tranny.

MY PERSONAL opinion-

A flush is like a empty glass with sugar in the bottom of it, then you pour tea into it. The sugar is stirred up and not is floating all around. What if the sugar was metal shavings in the pan and you flushed the transmission? Well the shavings will stir and go all over the transmission and could give you problems later. I know a lot of people who have never had a problem with flushes, but I myself would never have a flush done on my person car/truck. It is your call and this is my opinion not Royal Purple’s.

 

[stephendudra]

transmission oil change

I have read in another article on this subject from Denailtrucks.com.

I hope that Butch doesn't get mad for me sharing!

I'll pass along a great trick I learned from my drag racing days to change all the tranny fluid in the transmissiom, converter and cooler. I used to change the fluid in my race tranny every 20 runs, and this is a great time saver.

1) If you have over 10000 miles since the filter was last changed, drop the pan, clean it
completly, change the filter and bolt back up with a new gasket. (If you jump ahead and get the fitting in and pump out the first 3-4 qts before you drop the pan it will be empty and much cleaner to do the filter change) If you have less
than 10000 you can skip ahead to #3, although its always safer to change the filter
and clean and check the pan for particles or clutch pieces (not a good sign!)
2) Add 3 or 4 qts new fluid to bring it to the full mark on dipstick.
(DON'T START IT)
3) Remove the upper transmission line from the radiator, only very little fluid will drip,
if any at all, because its higher than the transmission.
4) Screw a short fitting into the radiator that you can attach a piece of tubing to. It is and odball fitting size on our newer trucks, and some just stick the tubing in the hole and hold it, a little messier but it works. You will need about 2 or 3 feet of 3/8 clear plastic
tubing. Clear gas line works great, but you can use almost any plastic or vinyl
tubing.
5) Clamp the tubing onto the fitting you put in the radiator and run the tubing over the
radiator support and out the front of the truck and into a gallon or larger jug.
I tape a big nut as a weight on the end of the tube to keep it in the jug, if you have a
helper they can just hold it in.
6) Start the truck. Fluid will start pumping out the tube into the jug. Watch the tube
untill you see bubbles or hear a bubbling sound and immediatly shut the truck off. It
will take about 30 seconds and will pump out 3-4 quarts of fluid.
7) Add 3-4 quarts of new fluid, to the full line on the dipstick, empty the jug (don't
forget that) and start it up again as before and watch for bubbles, and shut it off
again.
8) Repeat again, adding 3-4 quarts, empty the jug, start, watch for bubbles and shut
off.. If you really want to be assured that you have 100% change, add just 2 more
quarts and repeat. If the fluid was dirty, or the new fluid is a different color, you will
see the color change in the clear tube, this is when you know you have changed all
the fluid. I usually watch for the fluid color change rather than the exact number of
quarts.
9) Remove hose, replace fitting with transmissiom line, fill transmission to full line,
start the truck and warm up, when hot check and fill to line on dipstick.

You've just changed and flushed every drop of old fluid from the transmission, converter and cooler system. If your changing to synthetic, you will be 100% synthetic, none of the oil will intermix with this flushing procedure because the fluid follows one path from the filter to the pump, through all the transmission passages, through the converter and then out the cooler line and back to the pan. As my Denali only has 7000 miles on it I haven't changed it yet, but in my last truck, a 2000 Sierra 5.3, it took 14 quarts as i remember to flush it. Be safe and get 15 quarts. This is not a back-flush and will not dislodge any particles in the tranny. It is completly safe and easy to do. It may sound difficult but once you get the fitting made, you can do a complete flush in less than an hour for only the cost of the fluid.

 

[dogboss]

I have read in another article on this subject from Denailtrucks.com.

I hope that Butch doesn't get mad for me sharing!

I'll pass along a great trick I learned from my drag racing days to change all the tranny fluid in the transmissiom, converter and cooler. I used to change the fluid in my race tranny every 20 runs, and this is a great time saver.

1) If you have over 10000 miles since the filter was last changed, drop the pan, clean it
completly, change the filter and bolt back up with a new gasket. (If you jump ahead and get the fitting in and pump out the first 3-4 qts before you drop the pan it will be empty and much cleaner to do the filter change) If you have less
than 10000 you can skip ahead to #3, although its always safer to change the filter
and clean and check the pan for particles or clutch pieces (not a good sign!)
2) Add 3 or 4 qts new fluid to bring it to the full mark on dipstick.
(DON'T START IT)
3) Remove the upper transmission line from the radiator, only very little fluid will drip,
if any at all, because its higher than the transmission.
4) Screw a short fitting into the radiator that you can attach a piece of tubing to. It is and odball fitting size on our newer trucks, and some just stick the tubing in the hole and hold it, a little messier but it works. You will need about 2 or 3 feet of 3/8 clear plastic
tubing. Clear gas line works great, but you can use almost any plastic or vinyl
tubing.
5) Clamp the tubing onto the fitting you put in the radiator and run the tubing over the
radiator support and out the front of the truck and into a gallon or larger jug.
I tape a big nut as a weight on the end of the tube to keep it in the jug, if you have a
helper they can just hold it in.
6) Start the truck. Fluid will start pumping out the tube into the jug. Watch the tube
untill you see bubbles or hear a bubbling sound and immediatly shut the truck off. It
will take about 30 seconds and will pump out 3-4 quarts of fluid.
7) Add 3-4 quarts of new fluid, to the full line on the dipstick, empty the jug (don't
forget that) and start it up again as before and watch for bubbles, and shut it off
again.
8) Repeat again, adding 3-4 quarts, empty the jug, start, watch for bubbles and shut
off.. If you really want to be assured that you have 100% change, add just 2 more
quarts and repeat. If the fluid was dirty, or the new fluid is a different color, you will
see the color change in the clear tube, this is when you know you have changed all
the fluid. I usually watch for the fluid color change rather than the exact number of
quarts.
9) Remove hose, replace fitting with transmissiom line, fill transmission to full line,
start the truck and warm up, when hot check and fill to line on dipstick.

You've just changed and flushed every drop of old fluid from the transmission, converter and cooler system. If your changing to synthetic, you will be 100% synthetic, none of the oil will intermix with this flushing procedure because the fluid follows one path from the filter to the pump, through all the transmission passages, through the converter and then out the cooler line and back to the pan. As my Denali only has 7000 miles on it I haven't changed it yet, but in my last truck, a 2000 Sierra 5.3, it took 14 quarts as i remember to flush it. Be safe and get 15 quarts. This is not a back-flush and will not dislodge any particles in the tranny. It is completly safe and easy to do. It may sound difficult but once you get the fitting made, you can do a complete flush in less than an hour for only the cost of the fluid.

Great post....
The upper transmission line is coming directly from the transmission, I am assuming. Why do you need a fitting to put back on the transmission once the line is removed? You say 3/8 tube...is that inner or outer dimension. I need to get a flush and new filter done fast so if anyone could chime in that would be great.....Thanks!!

 

[phonedrn8]

good right up will have to do this this summer

 

[justimagination]

][/FONT]

Great post....
The upper transmission line is coming directly from the transmission, I am assuming. Why do you need a fitting to put back on the transmission once the line is removed? You say 3/8 tube...is that inner or outer dimension. I need to get a flush and new filter done fast so if anyone could chime in that would be great.....Thanks!!

3/8 os diameter hose would give you roughly 5/16 inside diameter, perfect for going over flare on the transmission line. Use a small clamp (over the flare) after you put the hose on. Good luck, JMHO.
david g.