Is '95-'99 Rear Disc Brake conversion available?
- Thread starter hd_ryder
- Start date
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This is what I have found so far.
1995-1999 CHEVROLET TAHOE 4WD Rear Drum-to-Disc Brake Conversion Kits SUM-BK1403, $1,099.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1403/applications/make/chevrolet/year/1999/model/tahoe
1995-1999 CHEVROLET TAHOE 4WD Rear Drum-to-Disc Brake Conversion Kits SUM-BK1403, $1,099.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1403/applications/make/chevrolet/year/1999/model/tahoe
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Does anyone know what it would take to use 2000-2002 Tahoe (1999-2005 1500 Silverado) rear 6 lug single piston rear calipers for a '95-'99 Tahoe rear disc conversion?
Is the rear end housing much different on the 2000-2002 models? Axles, etc.?
Thanks for the help?
Is the rear end housing much different on the 2000-2002 models? Axles, etc.?
Thanks for the help?
MarkD51
Full Access Member
As I understand it from other's input from the the other Tahoe/Yukon/Z71 Forum, converting to disc brakes on the old body style will actually cause you to lose braking efficiency on the old body style Hoes/Kons, no matter how cool this upgrade may seem.
They claim the reason is, is the Stock Master Cylinder, and the bore sizes within them.
A Disc Caliper has to move a good more quantity of brake fluid versus a tiny wheel cylinder on a drum brake set-up. One might recover such with a MC Conversion, but it won't come without fit issues, I believe there is some machining needed to be done to retrofit a newer NBS Master Cylinder.
As many have claimed, mods such as this, or others such as Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, better Shoe-Pad Materials, larger front Calipers will offer some small slight improvements-gains.
Better quality pad material will commonly stave off fading at higher operating temps. Slotted Rotors might help a tiny bit too. None will be drastic gains, you might gain a few feet in stopping distances, and the investments might not prove cost efficient.
The best brake upgrade one could do they say, would be the conversion to Hydroboost.
This is what was put on the diesel versions. One can go to a junkyard to seek conversion parts, to buy all new, as it requires a different power steering pump as well as brake components, this could cost about $1000.00
But the difference is night and day they claim. If you want to fly through the windshield, then it will have to be the Hydroboost Conversion.
Mark
They claim the reason is, is the Stock Master Cylinder, and the bore sizes within them.
A Disc Caliper has to move a good more quantity of brake fluid versus a tiny wheel cylinder on a drum brake set-up. One might recover such with a MC Conversion, but it won't come without fit issues, I believe there is some machining needed to be done to retrofit a newer NBS Master Cylinder.
As many have claimed, mods such as this, or others such as Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, better Shoe-Pad Materials, larger front Calipers will offer some small slight improvements-gains.
Better quality pad material will commonly stave off fading at higher operating temps. Slotted Rotors might help a tiny bit too. None will be drastic gains, you might gain a few feet in stopping distances, and the investments might not prove cost efficient.
The best brake upgrade one could do they say, would be the conversion to Hydroboost.
This is what was put on the diesel versions. One can go to a junkyard to seek conversion parts, to buy all new, as it requires a different power steering pump as well as brake components, this could cost about $1000.00
But the difference is night and day they claim. If you want to fly through the windshield, then it will have to be the Hydroboost Conversion.
Mark
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