The official how many miles on your Tahoe Thread

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clkelley

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Welcome to the neighborhood! Nice buy there! I have answered some things below, hope it helps...

:welcome:

New to the forum and I just bought my first Tahoe from my ex-wife's new husband. He's the original owner. 2000 LT version. It's got 140,000 miles, looks like new, and I only paid $3500 for it.



Issues are:

Engine is great and runs strong but has a lifter "pecking" after it sits for a day or so. It's not an oil pressure problem. Mechanical gauge says all is great. 30 seconds after start-up or just a little 2000 RPM rev and it goes away and stays away until the next time. (I'm a LTX engine builder so I'll just put in a set of hundred dollar LS7 lifters and that'll be fixed.)

The issue you are talking about doesn't have to be oil pressure related, but it is oil related. Do you know what oil he uses/used in it? A lot of oils out there don't have enough of the right additives to be able to cling to the internal parts of the engine while not running. As a result, when you start it, there is and insufficient coating of oil on the lifters and you get the pecking/knocking, etc. Two things to try, if it has been well maintained, which it sounds as if it has, make the switch to a full synthetic oil and then consider installing a pre-oiler system. The pre-oiler comes on when you turn the key but before you start it to pump oil through the valve train before start up to defend against "dry start".

Left rear window goes down all by itself unless the window lock button is pushed. I can "Jiggle" the windows lock button and make it happen whenever I want. It might have got some water in it when the window was down in the rain. I'll check it later.

I would blame that on the window switches themselves. Replace the door lock switch and the up and down switch and see if that fixes it.


The rear hatch glass won't open and the rear hatch won't lock. Something electric I'll bet and I'll pull the fascia off and try to find the problem.

I would check in the "Jam" if the door where the electrical wiring harness goes into the door/hatch. Take the loom off and inspect the wiring inside to ensure that there aren't any wires that have been damaged from opening and closing the hatch.

Air bag warning light is on. I'll give it a cursory look when I get some diagrams and if I can't find the problem I'll take out the light bulb.:waytogo:

For the airbag light, I would check the fuses and into the airbag sensors on the front of the truck, they should be mounted on the bottom of the radiator support.


That's it. I've taken it on a 1000 mile trip and it got 16.6 MPG. I thought that was a little weak until I started to read a bunch of threads on here. Except for the one guy getting 25 MPG:Whoa: most folks seem to get the same as me.

That is decent mileage, a little TLC maintenance and she should pick that up a little. Change all the drive train fluids over to full synthetic, plugs, wires, O2 sensors (they can be on their way out and causing issues without throwing codes, etc), clean the MAF and throttle body and she should purrrrr


I have the FSM's for my other cars but I can't find one for the Tahoe. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good source for wiring diagrams?

I would get a FSM here http://www.helminc.com

My other vehicles are a 1995 Impala SS (11.78 @ 116), a stock 1995 Vette convertible, and a 2003 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 that gets 30 MPG. (My sensible car)

Nice! Let's see pics of everything!

Nice forum with a lot of great information. Have a great day, guys.
 

1963SS

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Thanks for the great response. I don't know what oil he's been using but I am a big fan of "real" synthetics. I will be changing over real soon. I just put some old 10w30 (Mobil for high mileage vehicles) in there for my trip.

Lifters have very tight tolerances. The plunger should be tight enough to hold oil even when the old Tahoe is not running. I've seen a little wear on LTX engines cause this same issue. In addition to changine over to synthetic I'll put a set of lifters in too. Sure can't hurt.

I'll change the door lock switch first but for sure one of them is flaky. Thanks for the tip.

I'm sure it needs plugs, wires and O2 sensors. My ex-wife's new husband has never changed any of that stuff. I'll be going back with all the GM parts on this. They sure work well and last long time.

Nice! Let's see pics of everything!

Pics of the old Vette. I'll be painting her next weekend. New hood was black gel coat and it's pretty close but the paint's tired.

IMG_2131.jpg


IMG_2132.jpg


Here's the new engine for the Vette. I just sold the LT4 heads and intake. My competition ported 195 cc AFR heads will be here this week.:happy160:
'Mild" solid roller (236/242, .608/.612 112 LSA), 11.4 compression, Dragonslayer and Oliver forged bottom end with Mahle PowerPak pistons.

IMG_2214.jpg


The Old Impala SS is my toy car. It's fairly quick for a 4400# "pig". Kinda an old school paint job.

washpics003.jpg


Ghost flames are hardly visible unless the sun is in the right place.

washpics007.jpg


And here's the motivation for the Imp. 383 stroker, 438 RWHP through a loose 3600 stall converter. It runs great and I take her on trips. She gets about 20-21 MPG if I don't drive like a crazy man. Best time has been an 11.76 @ 116. I drove 480 miles to the drag strip and back home after the racing. Got 21 MPG.

IMG_2089-1.jpg


I'll get pics of the Tahoe shortly and the poor old Monte Carlo too. The Monte is my work car (Drive about 400-500 miles per day) and the only mods are a GPS and an Escort 9500 ix.
Thanks for the responses and have a great day.
 

1963SS

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If you would like information about Amsoil Synthetics let me know.

I don't need any information. I've been to way too many seminars on oil, racing oil, mineral, synthetic and am a solid believer in only one of several brands. Amsoil is right there and I do use it......and another.:p

It seems that you do a lot for this forum and I will purchase my products from you in the future, as long as you're competitive. Thanks for the help.
---Gunny---
 

clkelley

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I don't need any information. I've been to way too many seminars on oil, racing oil, mineral, synthetic and am a solid believer in only one of several brands. Amsoil is right there and I do use it......and another.:p

It seems that you do a lot for this forum and I will purchase my products from you in the future, as long as you're competitive. Thanks for the help.
---Gunny---

I appreciate that Gunny. Just let me know when you are ready for something and I am sure you won't be disappointed. :waytogo:

SEMPER FI
 

Aziegler87

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245000 miles on 99 Tahoe

I have 245000 miles on my Tahoe. It has been old but now whenever the trucks moving there is a noise coming from somewhere down below near the wheels or just one wheel (hard to tell exactly) that should be described as a constant squeak squeal or outright screaming and at parking lot speeds it can be a grinding noise with an occasional clunk or slam. It sounds like the POS is about to fall apart. Any ideas what this might be? I am trying to figure out if this truck is even worth fixing.
 

clkelley

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I have 245000 miles on my Tahoe. It has been old but now whenever the trucks moving there is a noise coming from somewhere down below near the wheels or just one wheel (hard to tell exactly) that should be described as a constant squeak squeal or outright screaming and at parking lot speeds it can be a grinding noise with an occasional clunk or slam. It sounds like the POS is about to fall apart. Any ideas what this might be? I am trying to figure out if this truck is even worth fixing.

I highly recommend removing the rear brakes and inspecting the brake shoes. It sounds to me like you have them coming apart inside the drum/rotor depending on year model. The symptoms described describe that problem almost to a T.
 

TxTahoe04

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Bought mine brand new in 04 & to date has 58,000 on it. :emotions33: Still runs great so far.... :naughty:
 

mdf307

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2001 Tahoe

I have a 2001 Tahoe Z71 with 171,000 and it's still outrunning many vehicles on the road. Leather seat cracked a small bit on drivers side, paints perfect, engine burns no oil, use full synthetic, 5.3L puts out plenty for the Tahoe..very happy. Had a Yukon before and will probably go back to GMC...they just have the small changes that count.. My '99 Denali with the 5.7L vortec had 188,000 and it had dropped cylinders 5, 7, and beginning to drop 3. Used nearly a quart of oil a week. The rear diff was replaces once at 110k and again right before I sold it..not fun at $2k a time. The 5.3 is bullet proof..the 5.7 is a workhorse but iffy lifespan. Good luck to anyone looking at a Tahoe or Yukon or the like...they're truly awesome cars.
 

Spar

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No one has been able to beat me yet?? 151,281 miles as of today!! And no major problems!! :Chevy:

182K and counting on my 99 :) But Im not the original owner, either. Replaced the fuel pump (Think I ran too close to dry for too long, and it burned the old one up) and the alternator as a precaution (Lady at auto place said it was likely factory) Other than that, no other repairs since I've had it, going on a year now.
 

PAHOE

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I have an 04 which I have owned since new and it has 168,??? on it. No real complaints thus far. 1 waterpump, which I also replaced thermostat and both belts. AC clutch froze up, replced it. Just did a right front hub/bearing replacement. Put new rotor/pads on rear for first time at 165,000. replaced the reostat for the blower (it got stuck "on") and need to replace several lights in the dash. Oh....my speedo stopped working...how can I repair this?
 

00Z71Tahoe

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2000 OBS Z71 Hoe-147,776 She is still looking purdy and with a BRAND NEW 5.7 dropped in her!
 

tahoedriver

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Mileage

My 05 Tahoe mileage at 180,000 and still going. Getting a little slower at take-off, but other than that, I am still in love with it. No major repairs, EVER. Good with maintenance protocols.
 

NCFD4303

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I have an 04 which I have owned since new and it has 168,??? on it. No real complaints thus far. 1 waterpump, which I also replaced thermostat and both belts. AC clutch froze up, replced it. Just did a right front hub/bearing replacement. Put new rotor/pads on rear for first time at 165,000. replaced the reostat for the blower (it got stuck "on") and need to replace several lights in the dash. Oh....my speedo stopped working...how can I repair this?

Usually the stepper motors go bad. There is a company that sells the stepper motors on ebay.I think he can fix them for you too. Hope this helps
 

joemontanez89

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02 tahoe 5.3 vin z

new to this forum ive got 186xxx runs pretty great slight knocking at start up but if i give it a little rev it goes away
 

lsualum2001

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My 03 has 184K on it with only an AC compressor replacement being the only major repair.
 

Rocko954

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I have a 2001 Tahoe with 217,000. In hoping not to jinx her performance, all is running well. Transmission may be starting to have issues (Oh no!), but looks good for a 11 year old truck.
 

Infidel

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Just turned 289,000 on all original engine and drivetrain...

I bought this Tahoe new in 2001 and figured to get about 6 years out of it but im on 11 and the damm thing just wont die...I ran it up to Durango Colorado last week and even took it up 4 wheeling in the mountains...all on street tires and 289,000 miles...Im wanting to trade her on a newer suburban 4x4 but im perplexed at its durability...how long will this thing survive...I swear it runs like its new...I dont get it...???
 
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