yukon stalls when i step on the brakes hard..

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YukonRidin23

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well, im still finishing it up and im trying to get it done today. i just got her insured, so im going up to get my tags soon here, but when i was driving around the neighbor hood and would stop it would stall sometimes, not everytime, but if i stepped on the brakes quick or hard it would stall out. i searched this on the whole web and found a couple different possibilities. one place said it was the iac could be too high, and im looking for my reader to plug into the truck and check that out as we speak. then, i also heard that it could be something with the torque converter(specifically the tcc). im not quite sure what is happening....? today after i get the temp tags i was going to take it to get a new exhaust, or atleast the old one repaired(new tubing ran to from the headers to the cats, from the cats to the tips, and just remove my old precats, i had a total of 4 cats under this bad boy) and after i get the exhaust i was going to go get a tune up to see if that helped. new plugs, plug wires, etc just because it has been sitting for almost a year. but before i take her on the road id like to tackle this problem because when it stalls the brakes wont work as well, so i dont want to be on the highway when this happens.
 

SS5800

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My tahoe sat for a year and a half before i got it on the road, It did the same exact thing. When you drive it just keep slamming the brakes time to time. It will eventually go away. It did for me in about a week, i couldnt tell you why it happens but im almost positive it has something to do with sitting for so long.

Just drive the truck bro, it will go away. If it doesnt. Have it looked at.
 

718frankb

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sounds stupid but check out the battery cables and grounds sometimes its the simplest things
 

1999HOE

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yea could be a lose wire that falls out of place when u jerk the car look around the battery for anythong out of place
 

YukonRidin23

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it went away, drove around for a couple hours today and its driving alot better. also added new brake fluid, this truck is just too sick.
 

Slammed

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I was also gonna say the battery that was a problem for me few years ago with another vehicle the battery mount was broken and when i turned hard or braked hard it would touch the hood or firewall and stall out
 

SS5800

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Glad to hear its workin man, have fun with your yukon
 

YukonRidin23

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hey, one more quick question, i just dont want to start a new thread for it....

i have the led rear taillights, and there awesome, work great, extremely bright, but a little hard to see from the side. anyways, my right one acts a little funny, flickrs like power gets lost (doesnt turn off, just brighter then dims for a second) when i step on the brakes sometimes. anyone have any ieas, maybe just corroded connections?
 

pocket99

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OK just wanted to post this in case some of you are having the same issues and so you don't go down the same path I have been down. I have a 1999 Yukon SLT 5.7L V8 with about 70,000 miles. I have been having issues where the vehicle would stall upon stopping or even cut out or hesitate after taking off from a dead stop. I took this vehicle to a third party mechanic and have spent major bucks trying to diagnose the problem to no avail. Sometimes I will get the check engine light to come on other times no check engine light, but it will have the same symptoms described above. Also at times it will be hard to start unless I would apply the throttle to the floorboards. This would happen after driving a few miles or even on cold starts. Now when I brought this to the mechanic the 1st time it had a engine code of P0125 which stands for Insufficient coolant for closed loop fuel control. The mechanic suggested it may be a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump and quoted me $800 for this repair. Not wanting to invest a fortune in the repair I decided to do the repairs my self. After completing the repair I still had the same symptoms. I have also replaced the spark plugs and plug wires along with the PCV valve. After reading many forums and a copy of the Haynes repair manual I have come to the conclusion that all my problems were related to one faulty ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor. I picked one up at the local parts store for $20.00 and before installing I tested the wiring harness. It should read about 5 volts by turning the key on and placing the ground of the multimeter on the black wire and the positive lead to the other wire leading to the ECT wiring harness. If you get the correct voltage just replace the sensor. It is located off to the side and next to the coolant hose containing the thermostat valve. After replacing the ECT sensor the vehicle runs like a top. No problems at all. I hope this helps some people and you don't have to invest the time and money I had to in order to come to this conclusion. Good luck all.
 
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