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There's a line junction at the rear of the truck for the rear washer fluid line. Crawl under the back of the left rear tire, find the black plastic fluid line running along the rear panel; follow it up towards the rear bumper ass'y. You'll find the junction. The line "snaps" into the junction...

Hm. Dunno about the Sierra, but having lived in LV for a number of years, I wouldn't worry about 210F on the tranny. If it reaches 220-230 during normal driving, then worry.

that and your duramax comes with a transmission cooler stock; the hoe's and yuk's do not. You have to check the box along with the trailer and towing package. ask me how i learned this...

didn't come with my Yukon either I wondered about that too when I got my 08 Yukon. It wasn't an option for me either. The wiring harness was stock though. I mount mine right next to the PCM port on the right under the kickboard.

Thought it worked great when I was home for X-mas in Detroit. Would remote start my Yukon in the morning, warm it up, and then press the heater button for the windshield fluid. After the programmed three interval passes, frost and ice were gone. It's a nice feature to have in the colder climes...

If it removes the stock intake, with it's littany of baffles and such, and offers an aftermarket filter (cone flows best), then yea, go for it. HP gains are relative; how big/long/short is the intake tube, what's the flow volume of the filter, etc.; I'm not recommending one over the other, just...

Well, the K&N system will give you that!

ram air vs. CAI Yes, there is a difference. a true "ram air" system does exactly that; takes air from outside the engine bay and, due to forward motion of the vehicle, forces air into the intake. Nothing like a supercharger though. The faster you go, the higher the pressure inside the ram...

NVRMND, found it myself.. hose came apart at the rear coupler, which hangs down a bit behind the rear bumper cover. Pushed the hose back into the coupler, feel for the indent, and your'e done. Works fine now.

TTT for xmas!! Anybody?

2008 Yukon SLT 4x4: The hose to my rear window washer came away from the pump this weekend; frozen lines+too much pressure. Anybody hook me up with a schematic for the routing of this line so I know where to look? I don't feel like removing body panels until I find the right area, you know...

Lesse: Bought my 08 Yukon SLT 4x4 w/ tow package in March 2008, Midnite Blue/Black interior. Have put 14K on it since then, lots of towing during the summer/fall (trailer, corvette, Xtras in the cargo bay-6000lbs. est). Tows great, good power through all types of roads. Averaged 12-13mpg on...

..and make sure you hook up both the wires. Having trailer brakes is very nice. Don't forget your aftermarket brake controller either. No controller, no trailer brakes!:nonod:

Okay, gotta :cuss: for a minute. My 08 Yukon SLT 4wd just touched 10k, did my first oil change at 7k (5qts 5-30), and I have yet to see the advertised 19mpg highway. My commute is 30miles of highway twice a day! I've tried different fuels, even ethanol (not again), and the best I've gotten is...

Well, that's because I'm an idiot, and got my oil caps confused. My vette has an aftermarket "Mobil One" filler cap; the Yukon is factory, and I was thinking of the other one when I posted up. You are correct, all it says is '5W-30 SAE' on the cap. Doofus--Me. :o

So Tahoe's don't come standard with Mobil 1? My Yuke's oil fill cap says it right on the top!

special tool not needed Two ways to get the pulley off; remove the fan with the pump on the engine, then (if you have one at home) get your power chisel gun out and use a 6" stud pounder or dull bladed chisel against the nut face. you'll have to "lock" the pulley in place; I used a strap wrench...

yep, that's the one! Got here too late! That would be the correct answer, Mary. With the Tow Package option, the 40a fuse is already in. All I had to do was find and hook up my power and brake contoller lines to the posts. And wire my controller, of course. Glad you found the solution!

there's an option! Yea, that could work! Cheaper fix than installing a bigger radiator too. If you go this route, make sure to post up your results. Will be alot of help to others who are experiencing loss of power due to heatsoak.

Cooling's the name of the game, boys. Engine's nothing but a big air pump. If you cool the incoming air charge, you produce more horsepower. SaudiLTZ, you have another problem; ambient air temperatures are much higher to start with, so you're fighting both engine and air temp's. For you, I...