Getting subs

[WrenchGuy]

8GA would have been a little better. I just use bigger wire in case of upgrades. On music your amp won't put out max power. It takes more power to reproduce low frequencies than high frequencies and on music the bass isn't constant like a test tone. The ratings on the box are at a certain voltage also. I wanna say 14.4 on average.

You have a good 2 channel amp to run some components later though.

 

[MadMedwyn]

Went to Advance Auto Parts today and they wanted $190 to drop in an Optima Yellow top. They had one that was $160 (looked different) but they recommended the $190 one for my truck. I saw many on the net that were also $190. Should I take the bigger one? Which one did you guys put in yours?

 

[greengumby]

die hard ....yellow tops and red tops have been failing left and right ..i'm now up to 16 jump starts (other people) and they all had yellow or red tops ..including 4 ford mustangs it feels great to have a chevy jump starting a ford mustang

it's up to you good luck on your choice

 

[MadMedwyn]

I'm going to go back to the parts store and make them check my battery and alternator. If nothings wrong with them immediatly, then I'm running back to the audio shop and I'm going to make them put a 4awg power and ground to my amp. It bugs the crap out of me that they didn't listen in the first place.

Let me just clarify that I would need a yellow top if the battery is the case right? I couldn't just go get another cheaper OEM-ish battery because I would still have voltage drop issues, correct? I still have the original battery so I imagine I'll need a new one no matter what soon.

 

[WrenchGuy]

Just get a sealed deep cycle. I like my Deka Intimidator. The deepcycle is made to be charged and drained and handles it better than an OEM battery. If you need to save money you could get a group 34 deep cycle their brand and suffice for your current setup.

 

[MadMedwyn]

Ok I went on over to the shop and told them to put 4awg power and ground to the amp. They did a good job and now the wiring is really clean. And guess what...I was right and it solved about 80% of my problem. I am still running my amp pretty conservatively but it still hits hard enough for me and I get no visible light dimming. But that was during the day and I have yet to drive at night.

I still see my voltage needle move however but not as drastically before. But if I cranked my amp I bet it could get it to really drop, so a new battery will still be necessary imo. It's just not urgent at the moment.

And one more question: If I go Optima Yellow Top, which one should I get? I entered my truck/year and got these.

This for $190?
http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...&MfrPartNumber=D3478950&PartType=5005&PTSet=A

Or this for $172?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=OTM&MfrPartNumber=D7525&PartType=5005&PTSet=A

I'd love to get the cheaper one. And I'm sure I can find it for cheaper on other sites. As long as the smaller one will work for big3, then I'll get that one. What do you think?

 

[dye4metal]

look at the CCA on the batteries. im sure with that amp the cheaper will do fine.

and for the battery terminals for the big 3 go to www.knukonceptz.com

 

[WrenchGuy]

I have this one. Good battery too.

http://remybattery.com/Products/Deka-Intimidator-Battery---9A78DT__9A78DT.aspx

 

[dye4metal]

Your lights will probably still dim, even with a .4.-.5 voltage drop the lights noticeably dim. ive found it kinda hard to not get them to dim since the voltage is gonna drop slightly. its just a slight dim tho

 

[MadMedwyn]

Just shelled out $200 for the property tax on this baby. Lol the battery may have to wait just a little while. I'm not worried about it. My dimming isn't bad at all unless I decide to turn it up extremely loud. The gain is still conservative at the moment on my amp. But it sounds more than enjoyable to me.

 

[WrenchGuy]

Your always gonna dim that little bit from the alt doing 14.4 and the battery making it 12. Hence the regulating.